My gas dryer stopped heating so I replaced the igniter but still no heat. There is gas to the appliance and I did the glow test on both igniters old and new. No glow on either Is there anything else in line with the igniter that could fail and cause it to not fire. Or is it possible the new ignitor is defective.
Thanks for your help
DT
[quote=dthurd;456593]My gas dryer stopped heating so I replaced the igniter but still no heat. There is gas to the appliance and I did the glow test on both igniters old and new. No glow on either Is there anything else in line with the igniter that could fail and cause it to not fire. Or is it possible the new ignitor is defective.
Thanks for your help
DT[/quote]
DT,
A bad “new” igniter is a good possibility,
you can test it with a multi meter, and across the 2 wires to the igniter should have a resistance of 50 to 500 ohms resistance, if it’s good.
There are several components involved in the ignition system on the gas valve.
You could check the radiant/flame sensor mounted on the side of the burner cone for a closed circuit.
Then you can check for 110 to 120 VAC to the igniter, from the valve and the same voltage to the valve from the thermostats and control.
With the dryer running, in a heat cycle, you should read voltage across the 2 wires that attach to the igniter harness from the gas valve.
Disconnect the harnesses from the gas valve coils and check for voltage across the (usually the blue and white wires) in both connectors, that will isolate the valve, or thermostats and control as the problem.
We can move on from there,
Good Luck,
I did the tests as instructed to the igniter line
with no plugs in the gas valve 44VAC
with the 3 pin hooked up 19.7 VAC
with the 3 pin and 2 pin hooked up 27.8VAC
reading on old igniter was 0 ohms
new igniter is 137 ohms
did all tests with gas off to the dryer. Did I do the tests properly or are my results what you expect leading to another failed part?
Thanks so far
DT
[quote=dthurd;456871]I did the tests as instructed to the igniter line
with no plugs in the gas valve 44VAC
with the 3 pin hooked up 19.7 VAC
with the 3 pin and 2 pin hooked up 27.8VAC
reading on old igniter was 0 ohms
new igniter is 137 ohms
did all tests with gas off to the dryer. Did I do the tests properly or are my results what you expect leading to another failed part?
Thanks so far
DT[/quote]
DT,
You had a bad igniter, the 0 ohms, tells us that. The new igniter is in range,
The voltages at the igniter wires would indicate a loose connection or a bad set of gas valve coils.
Good Luck,
ordered the coils would one or both of those being bad cook the igniter
I have the same model and the same problem. Prior to disassembling, we ran unit with panels off and I did not see any glowing at the igniter. We removed coils and checked resistance and they check out ok ~1250 on 2 pin and ~1320/560 on 3 pin. We removed the flame sensor, it has 2 terminals (not the wires, the brass tabs where the wires connect). The shorter one was loose on its pin and fell off. I have not checked continuity on this or igniter yet, but would an open circuited flame sensor prevent the igniter from glowing? What is the order of operation of these components?
Thanks.
Carl
[quote=ckatkinson;457497]I have the same model and the same problem. Prior to disassembling, we ran unit with panels off and I did not see any glowing at the igniter. We removed coils and checked resistance and they check out ok ~1250 on 2 pin and ~1320/560 on 3 pin. We removed the flame sensor, it has 2 terminals (not the wires, the brass tabs where the wires connect). The shorter one was loose on its pin and fell off. I have not checked continuity on this or igniter yet, but would an open circuited flame sensor prevent the igniter from glowing? What is the order of operation of these components?
Thanks.
Carl[/quote]
Carl,
Yes,
A loose wire connection at the radiant/flame sensor could create an intermittent ignition procedure. The sensor, should be a “closed” circuit, until the igniter has produced enough heat (approximately 2300 dgrs.)and light to ignite the gas.
As for the gas valve coils, they are a bit tricky. they can and will usually circuit test OK, when “cold”, and still be faulty.
The best way to check the coil circuits is, to run the dryer in a heat cycle for 10 to 15 minutes, then test the coil resistance.
As for the ignition sequence,
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=2][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=2][LEFT]Many silicon carbide gas burners utilize a split coil design. Valve No. 1 has two coils to actuate its plunger, thus giving the split-coil burner its name.
Neither the hold coil nor the assist coil alone is strong enough to open the valve. The combined magnetic action of both coils is needed. Once the valve is open, however, the hold coil can hold it open by itself. The circuits of both coils will serve as a quick shut-off function. When voltage is applied to 1V and 3V, a circuit is completed from 1V to the ignitor, and through the sensor.[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=2][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=2][LEFT]Simultaneously, the hold coil is energized, and the assist coil is energized through the radiant sensor. This action means that the ignitor is heating and No. 1 valve is open. No gas flows, however, until No. 2 valve also opens. Note the resistor in series with the assist coil. This is a balancing resistor which is used only on one style of valve. It will not be present on all split-coil valves.
The ignitor has reached a temperature sufficient to open the radiant sensor contacts as shown below. This action causes valve No. 2 to be energized through the ignitor. Gas flows through the valve and is ignited
instantly by the still hot ignitor. Current through the assist coil on valve No. 1 is very low at this point. [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=2][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=2]Magnetism created by the hold coil is sufficient to[/LEFT]
hold the No. 1 valve open.
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=2][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=2][LEFT]Valve No. 2 is open but magnetism produced by the hold coil is not sufficient to open the No. 1 valve. When the sensor cools and the sensor contacts reclose, reignition will occur.
Good Luck,
[/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
Well repair number two had no effect still with a new igniter and both of the gas valve coils replaced no heat at all. I did measure across both the old set and new set of coils and they seem identical. I checked the connections gas to the appliance but it still doesn’t warm up. Any other things I can look at to fix this problem. I have run out of ideas. Is there another relay or thermostat in there that is the problem.
Thanks for your continued help.
DT
[quote=dthurd;460214]Well repair number two had no effect still with a new igniter and both of the gas valve coils replaced no heat at all. I did measure across both the old set and new set of coils and they seem identical. I checked the connections gas to the appliance but it still doesn’t warm up. Any other things I can look at to fix this problem. I have run out of ideas. Is there another relay or thermostat in there that is the problem.
Thanks for your continued help.
DT[/quote]
DT,
I don’t recall if you stated you had replaced the radiant/flame sensor or not ?
If you haven’t, try this, but be extremely careful, you could get shocked.
After you disconnect the power and the two wires from the flame sensor,
hold the two wires together so the brass terminals touch(you could use a couple of pairs of pliers with insulated handle) have a helper plug the power cord in, and start the dryer on a heat cycle.
If the igniter starts to glow, you have a bad radiant/flame sensor. hold the wires together for a few seconds(10 to 15) then separate the wires, and the valve should release and ignite the gas.
You can also check for 120 VAC to the gas valve coils, remove the coil connector from both coils, start the dryer in a dry cycle and check for 120 VAC across the Blue wire and the White wire, in the connector to both coils, no voltage would indicate an open thermostat or heat contact in the timer, or damaged wire.
Be careful,
Good Luck,
any idea of the location of the flame sensor and thermostat, one component on the front right is round size of a quarter and I think has 5 wires attatched to it. Not sure where to look so I can do the tests
Thanks
DT
[quote=dthurd;460400]any idea of the location of the flame sensor and thermostat, one component on the front right is round size of a quarter and I think has 5 wires attatched to it. Not sure where to look so I can do the tests
Thanks
DT[/quote]
DT,
The Flame sensor, is a black rectangular box, mounted on the burner cone, it has 2 wires that trace back to the gas valve and coils
It should have a closed circuit at room temperature.
The hi limit thermostat and the thermal fuse are located on the burner flue/inlet tunnel. you’ll need to raise the top of the dryer and the components will be mounted and visible in the left rear corner between the tumbler back wall and the dryer cabinet rear panel, They should also be a closed circuit at room temperature.
I think you did describe the regulating thermostat, it has 4 wires on it,
you need to be concerned with the 2 “silver” terminals, there should be a closed circuit across the terminals at room temperature.
Do all of the resistance and circuit checks with the wires disconnected from the terminals, so we don’t get a false reading.
Good Luck,
Well Joe I think we are on to it now, I pulled the flame sensor which has a pair of orange wires to the top and a single white on the bottom. The top connection was broken off with the tab still connected to the wires but not connected to the flame sensor. I did the ohm check but it showed open. There is something loose rattling around in it. I am ordering the new sensor next. I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks Joe
DT
[quote=dthurd;463548]Well Joe I think we are on to it now, I pulled the flame sensor which has a pair of orange wires to the top and a single white on the bottom. The top connection was broken off with the tab still connected to the wires but not connected to the flame sensor. I did the ohm check but it showed open. There is something loose rattling around in it. I am ordering the new sensor next. I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks Joe
DT[/quote]
DT,
I thought you had replaced the flame sensor before we started, I must be wrong, maybe it was a previous post ?
Based on the information/description you posted, You’re on target.
I can’t help but think you’ll be OK after that.
Good Luck,
Well Joe you, we nailed it new igniter, new coils and new flame sensor and we are up and heating again. Thanks for all the great assistance in dealing with the problem. I will not hesitate to use or recommend you to anyone!!! Thanks again DT
DT,
Great news.
We’re glad for you, and thanks for the update.
You did all the work, you deserve the credit, But Thanks.
Good Luck,
