No water flow at any point. I ran the self diagnostic test and it shows everything good. I ran the manual test and activated the water valve, but still no water. I was afraid of a stuck valve, so I went ahead and replaced it, to no avail. Continuity tests good on the float switch. If I disconnect the wires to the water inlet valve and connect a meter, I never get voltage though any of the cycles. If I touch a lead to either side of the valve or switch, and the other lead to ground, I show 116vac at all times, even if shut off. So that tells me that the door switch is good and is supplying 116vac to the valve and through the float switch and back to the control board, waiting on the cntl board to supply a ground to complete the circuit.?. Am I correct in that thought? Leading me to believe a bad control board?
Let me ask a stupid question: Is the water turned on at the source?
Lol Yes it is, I guess I should have clarified that there’s good water flow all the way to the inlet valve.
You need to check both door switches. One controls the hot leg (Line 1 [black]), and the other controls the neutral leg (white). Disconnect power to the unit and do a continuity check on the switches. If they’re good, I would suspect the control board. When you open the door up to acces the switches, a visual check of the board will also help you: If there are any burn or scortch marks, or dark discoloration, replace the board.