Maytag Neptune MAH7500 "NF" cold water no fill on rinse

Washer Repair
1

I have been reading on my issue around forums but need some help pinpointing what to do/replace.

My 10 year old washer has been flawless … until now. A family of five (with 3 girls) and its run daily all day for the last 10 years. They go through changing clothes like a family of 12. So I have to say I love my washer and the problem I have now I think is minor. Anyway…

Now it will start wash fine any cycle, hot/cold, warm/warm, cold/cold, and almost every time on the rinse cycle it will have no flow of cold water in the bleach/softener area and exhibit a buzzing (low audible) humming like sound as the component and a component is malfunctioning not allowing flow. The water line hoses have been detached and checked, water flows into a bucket at strong PSI so I know hoses are not clogged. Screens are clear on the washer inlets and no debris in them. This is a mechanical failure of a part I am 99% sure.

After water doesnt flow, and a short time passes of about 5-8 minutes or so, the washer beeps three times and the LCD display reads “The washer did not fill. If this continures call for service.” Diagnostics mode menu indicates the expected “NF” (No Fill) error.

I have been limping along with this issue for a few weeks now. At first it would resolve if, after failure, I clicked the PAUSE button to re-start the failed rinse cycle and then it might work again. Soon it did it more and I figured out that if I would KINK the cold water line after I restarted the rinse cycle, then when the washer would turn the cold water inlet valve on I would feel the hose suck in and I would release the hose kink letting a surge of cold water to the washer inlet and sometimes that seemed to “help” a valve or something to trip thereby water would flow, if it did not, I could re-kink it and unkink it while the humming was going on… sometimes 3-4-5 times of repeating kink/unkink and the washer would open the valve and allow water in and it would start flowing in the softener/bleach area.

Now it is not really working as much anymore unless I let the washer sit 10-20 minutes or so, then come back and let it start up again. Sometimes the water flows by itself, sometimes I kink the line once or twice and it flows, sometimes it wont at all and I wait more time. Its slowly getting worse.

So if you are still reading, thanks. I wanted to post here for you experts to guide me in troubleshooting this or determining exactly WHICH part to replace as I dont want to replace a control board if the Water inlet valve is all that is the problem, nor do I want to replace the inlet valve if the pressure sensor valve is the problem… those are the only three things I have learned about regarding the NF code information.

Most of the information I have learned is surrounding the non-LCD MAH5500 model, which I understand is very similar to my MAH7500 LCD model.

ANyway, Thanks alot in advance!

2

Well, good detailed post, a lot of times we do not get enough info to make a definite recommendation.

Well, still cannot make a definite recommendation,but from your description I believe the valve assembly is the problem. A control board or electronic problem is probably binary, it either works or it does not. Since your problem has been intermittent, it suggests the valve assembly sometimes works and sometimes does not.

I would replace the valve assembly and see if that solves your problem. You can also do a diagnostic by checking to see if power is getting to the assembly when you are having the problem.

If you buy from this site and the part does not fix the problem, you can return it. See the returns policy for conditions.

Let us know how it works out.

3

Thanks. Good to know about the part. Any idea which part# I need exactly? Also, what about any instructions or a manual of how to get to that part? Does just the back come off to expose that part?

Would the diagnostic you allude to be using a multi-meter or something? I do have one but admit to being not exactly sure how to use it. I kind of fumble around with it trying different settings not knowing what i am doing really.

Thanks for your help.

4

Here is the part you may need to replace.

AP6006345

The manual that you need is for the Neptune MAH3000. It does not say anywhere in the manual, but Maytag added a fairly good section at the back that addresses your model in good detail. Maytag used to make the manual available on its service site, but has since decided it wants big bucks for access to that site (no more Mr. Friendly Repairman for them) so I cannot link you to it.

I suggest you do an Internet search for Maytag Neptune Service Manual, as it is still available free on some sites, (or used to be). Make sure you get the manual for the MAH3000. Again your model is discussed at the back.

If you get it, do some of the tests it recommends, including one on the water valve to see if you can get greater certainty on the problem. Yes, you will need a multi-meter than can test for continuity (ohms) and current. The best thing is to find a friend who (1) has one and (2) is willing to come over and help you with the testing.

Good luck, hope this helps and let us know how things turn out.

5

Part has been ordered. I should have it Friday!
This weekend I am a Maytag repair guy… stand by for questions if I have any :slight_smile:

Thanks again.

6

Ok, great. Hopefully you found the manual as that will be very helpful. As I said, there are some very helpful diagnositics with your machine.

If you ordered the part from this site and it does not fix the problem you can return it, see the returns policy for details and conditions.

7

[quote=sidfink43;366967]Ok, great. Hopefully you found the manual as that will be very helpful. As I said, there are some very helpful diagnositics with your machine.

If you ordered the part from this site and it does not fix the problem you can return it, see the returns policy for details and conditions.[/quote]

Bummer.. Wrong part… :frowning:
good news is the right one is 50 bucks cheaper ($32 instead of $81) :slight_smile:

Its only two blue relays. Not four like that one you recommended and I ordered.

Its part #2 in the sub diagram that says “Series 93 and forward”
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/sect/p/x/v/pxvb5jaha1.gif
My serial number starts with a 97 so maybe thats the indicator.

This one is what mine looks like:
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Termistor, water valve, part number: AP4029160

I just ordered the part… so Tuesday I should know…

We have been doing loads no problem by turning the cold water faucet off when it fails, then back on to get the water flowing… when it fails, cold water will never flow and makes a hissing/buzzing noise, until I come up turn the cold water off, and then back on to “trigger” the washer to allow cold water to flow… I assume the off pressure/on pressure and subsequent rush of water will trigger the relay to open up the valve once it senses NO PRESSURE and then PRESSURE again… I mention this to remind the experts here what the symptoms are and what i am dealing with.

I hope it is still this relay above and NOt the water pressure sensor?? Just asking because it seems like a change in water pressuRe makes it work, however, the humming noise seems to come from the area of the valve assembly and I think the pressure sensor is much lower and different location. The valve assembly is INCREDIBLY easy to get to with two bolts and it pulls right out the back with no other disassembly needed - so it would be a real blessing for this part to be the fix. I think the pressure regulator part is not so easy to get to.

Thanks.
p.s. I did find a MAH5500 manual online. Here is a link if anyone wants or needs it.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B5EnV0p3wItlNDcyN2FhODUtODhhMS00MmIyLWFhMGQtMTBhMDM4YzhjNGQw&hl=en&authkey=CL6cndoE

8

Well good, yes the series you have does require the simpler and less expensive part.

Let us know how the repair works out.

Did you check to see if power is getting to the valve when it is supposed to be open? That will be your key test to determine if it is the valve, vs the pressure switch or the control board.

9

SUCCESS!

All fixed. Working great now… a snap to replace through the little receptacle area in the back. Gotta love this experience…

[LIST=1]

  • Remove a couple screws
  • pull the metal mount plate with valve assembly out the back,
  • remove the single screw holding the valve assembly to the metal mounting plate
  • remove the electrical connections (note where they came from!)
  • loosen the metal collar that holds the water hose to the assembly
  • remove the valve assembly and replace the assembly with new one
  • Reverse the previous steps and three screws later you’re back in business.
    [/LIST]

15 minutes start to finish.

10

Well I know it was taking longer than you might have wanted, but glad you got it fixed with the less expensive part.

Thanks for the update.

11

Your post is great news for me. I am having the same problem with my MAH7500 model. Can you give me the part number you had to order again? The part link you posted is not working. :confused: