Maytag MVWB965HW0. Reporting a OFB Error

SolomonMan · June 18, 2026, 4:22am

Brand: Maytag
Model Number: MVWB965HW0
Main Symptom: OFB with Agitation Noise (Grind)
What happens & when: typically 22 or so minutes in does the OFB Error Appear

Error Code (if any): OFB
Parts or tests already tried: Numerous see Below explanation
Photos / video link: No Video one photo more to come

The Washing machine is a Maytag MVWB965HW0 (Top Loader).

Bought in June, 2020 new from Whirlpool (Inside Pass) at about $1000 delivered and we waited 9 weeks for it to arrive due to Covid issues.

Have Replaced already since new;
Main Control Panel (2023), Locking mechanism (2022),Damper Assembly, Tub Suspension (2024), Numeous LED Light assemblies (one almost every time in unit - needs a set now). Also unit has begun to rust significantly on top around lid assembly. Last thing replaced in June of 2025 was a Washing Machine Shift Actuator W10754448 as well as the W10734521 Washer Clutch Kit.

Did a average of 2-3 loads a week maybe 4 in the summertime. Last year (about 8 months really) have not used at all as it stopped working with the constant OFB error. Whether full or empty with clothes. I have done numerous tests and went all the way to empty testing. OFB error always displays at the 22 minute remaining mark. Unit seems to agitate still but one can hear a clicking noise/border line grind during agitation cycles/spin cycles. Agitator Cap likes to pop off on occation as well.

I am thinking the above list of replaced parts for this washer has been fairly excessive for the short time I have owned this appliance. The last washer was a Whirlpool front loader. The wife wanted something bigger and it came with the house from the last owners. They had a large family but it appeared gently used as their kids had long moved out. So we used it for about 10 years only replacing a drain pump and door seal. Sold the unit along with our dryer (Samsung) as a working pair.

I am going to tear into this Maytag more in the next day or so (will provide images). I am thinking that the Gearcase has done a belly up. I am thinking that the noise I am hearing is the gearcase. When we moved the washer to flip it on its side there was a perfect black mark on the vinyl floor which is the exact size and position as the direct drive motor. I believe this mark is dust from the grind we are hearing. I am thinking this dust could be from the internal gearcase freeplay which is causing the stator and rotor to touch (more dust). The dust is fine almost graphite like. It washed off the floor very easily…almost wipe it off but was fairly thick.

Looking at the gearcase being in the $200 area, Stator and Rotor possibly affected, and the surface rust on the lid which I have already tried a grind sand and repaint (with Maytag touchup) with it rusting again less than a year later. The new $725 front loader (Whirlpool WFW6605MW) as a replacement is looking like a very big possibility.

Questions at this point include;

Will the Supco TB123B Spanner Wrench work with this unit if I go the route of a new Gearcase? If purchased, will this wrench work on numerous models of washer?
What is a clear sign that the Gearcase is shot?
How to tell if the Stator and Rotor is damaged? I assume if the washer runs the Stator and Rotor are salvageable?
Thoughts on the Whirlpool WFW6605MW as far as reliability. This is a 5.0 cubic foot front loader washer replacing this Maytag 6.0 cubic Washer.
As this is a Maytag and they advertised the 10year warranty all over the unit do you think the Gearcase or any of the possible parts could be covered? When I spoke to them a while back about the touch pad they told me only a select few items are covered. Thoughts on getting any Satisfaction on this situation?

Thanks everyone,

Chris

Jeffrey_S_APP_Team · June 18, 2026, 2:24pm

Looking at the picture you provided and the symptoms you’re describing, I’m fairly certain that either the rotor and stator assembly ( W10754161 Motor Rotor | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock ) ( W10754158 Washer Drive Motor Stator | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock ) , the gearcase ( W11393684 Washer Gearcase Assembly | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock ) , or possibly both have failed. These units are notorious for gearcase failures.

At this point, deciding whether to repair or replace the washer is really a judgment call. However, if it were my machine and I had the means to do so, I would replace it rather than invest in a major repair.

The washer you’re considering is also a direct-drive model that uses a rotor and stator system. The best recommendation I can give is that if you decide to purchase the new washer, consider adding an extended warranty plan. In many cases, the warranty pays for itself the first time the unit requires a major repair.

SolomonMan · June 19, 2026, 4:33am

Jeffrey_S_APP_Team,

I can tell you at this point that the Motor Rotor is shot. The inner cone that slides into the Gear Case has broken off fairly cleanly. Only a small nub remains and the rest of the cone is stuck in the gearcase. The stator is very dirty but appears to be in one piece but I will have to clean it up with IPA and rag as its covered in that dust/graphite type material. I do not currently see any deep scoring from the Motor Rotor hitting the Stator which is very surprising to me based on the carnage to the Motor Rotor. The clutch and Washer Brake Assembly came off without a hitch (The ring clamp).

I have decided not to move forward on this repair if I have to buy the GearCase and Motor Rotor (which is evident). I may reach out to Whirlpool tomorrow as they are a very small drive from me (local < 30 minutes). Its worth a try but honestly I do not expect anything.

While the Motor Rotor by itself is a not a large investement and the Gearcase by itself is not a large investment but the two together considering the condition of the washer I would be better off getting pretty much anything else. This includes even a used unit if its cosmetically better. Marketplace has a large number under the $300 dollar mark not to mention local used appliance stores which do warranties as well at about the same amount. I have ran into a couple used Speed Queen Commercial units (2 weeks ago) at the local Habitat for Humanity and these were only $165. I had a speed queen previously for 12 years and did not replace a single item on it. It was used and was in a commercial laudromat before I got it. Unfortunately the ones at Habitat were small.

In the end I will probably do a new one but may do a used one to get by for now. With that said I did look into the extended warranty for this new unit and a 5 year is at 190 dollars. I would also like to know if there are any decent LG models at the 5.0 cubic larger.

I did continue to tear down the washer assuming I was replacing the gear case anyways.

Unfortunately, I am having a hell of time getting the agitator off after removing the Cap and Bolt. I do not remember ever having this kind of problem removing a Agitator.

At this point, Once the Agitator is removed, I should be down to the Bolt Spacer and the Gear Case out of the washer.

Thanks for the help and suggestions!

Chris