Maytag Mod# MSD2556AEW Ice Maker not making ice

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
1

Brand: Maytag
Model Number: MSD2556AEW
Main Symptom: Ice Maker not making ice
What happens & when: After harvesting ice, and at the end of the water refill cycle, it started to dribble water, which then froze in the ice collection bin. I replaced the water inlet solenoid in 2021, but that didn’t solve the problem. I just put up with it, cleaning out the ice bin every couple of weeks. A couple of days ago, the ice maker went “berserk” and unleashed a torrent of water into the freezer compartment. I completely cleaned out the freezer, including defrosting the coils and ice maker. I changed the water filter at this time as well. Currently, the ice maker just continues to “spin” through its cycle, but never fills with water. I put in a new filter, and ran 3 gal of water through the water dispenser, to try and fix the issue…to no avail. Additionally, when I prop the arm up to turn off the ice maker, it just keeps on cycling. Freezer temp is below 0 degrees. Any help/suggestions are appreciated.

Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:

2

Based on everything you’ve described, I actually think you have more than one issue going on.

The fact that the ice maker keeps cycling even with the shutoff arm raised is the biggest clue. The shutoff arm should stop the harvest cycle. If it continues to rotate, the internal module inside the ice maker ( Whirlpool D7824706Q Refrigerator Ice Maker | Genuine OEM Part ) has likely failed. The earlier symptom of the water continuing to dribble after the fill cycle may have been a separate issue, but it also could have been caused by the ice maker holding the water valve energized longer than it should.

Here’s how I would narrow it down:

  1. Test the water inlet valve. ( Whirlpool 12001892 Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Kit | Genuine OEM Part )
    Disconnect the water line from the valve outlet that feeds the ice maker (leave the household water connected). Watch for any water dripping from the valve while the refrigerator is sitting idle. There should be no dripping at all. If water continues to seep out, the valve is leaking internally and should be replaced.

  2. Verify the valve is being energized during harvest.
    During the portion of the harvest cycle when the ice maker should fill, use a multimeter to check for 120 VAC at the ice maker water valve coil.

    :warning: Live Power Warning: This test is performed with the refrigerator energized. Use extreme caution to avoid electric shock. If you’re not comfortable working around live voltage, skip this test.

    • If you measure 120 VAC but no water enters the mold, the problem is likely a restricted fill tube, a clogged valve, or a defective new valve.
    • If you never get 120 VAC, the ice maker module has most likely failed and is not commanding the fill valve.

  3. Inspect the fill tube.
    Make sure the plastic fill tube entering the back of the ice maker isn’t frozen shut. A slow-dripping valve can eventually freeze the tube closed, preventing any water from reaching the mold.

  4. Because the shutoff arm no longer works, I would strongly suspect the ice maker assembly itself.
    On this style of Maytag/Amana modular ice maker, the internal gears, switches, and motor are all part of the module. Once they begin free-running or ignoring the shutoff arm, replacing the complete ice maker is usually the most reliable and cost-effective repair.

A couple of questions that will help confirm the diagnosis:

  • When the ice maker reaches the fill portion of the cycle, do you hear the water valve buzz for about 5–7 seconds?
  • Is the fill tube above the ice maker clear or frozen solid?
  • If you manually pour about 2/3 cup of water into the ice mold, does it freeze and harvest those cubes normally, or does it continue to spin continuously without stopping?

Those answers will tell us whether we’re dealing with just a failed ice maker module, a frozen fill tube, a valve problem, or a combination of the three.

3

Thank you for the insightful reply, and possible remedies. For your additional knowledge, this S/S fridge/freezer was installed in Feb 1999, in a home I bought in Sep 2002, which was built in 1996. I realized why they left it, only after pulling it out a couple of months later to clean the condenser fan and what not. It was clear, either their previous, (or this fridge) leaked water, and mildly damaged the wood flooring; and they didn’t want it to be a noticeable point of contention with the sale. No bother, it’s mine now. I’ve had to replace the adaptive defrost control twice; (1st) 2007, (2nd) 2011. Other than those two instances I’ve not had any other service issues, other than routine maintenance I do myself. The first steps you suggested require a bit more time to perform than I have right now, so jumped directly to your questions…with responses below.

A couple of questions that will help confirm the diagnosis:

When the ice maker reaches the fill portion of the cycle, do you hear the water valve buzz for about 5–7 seconds? No.

Is the fill tube above the ice maker clear or frozen solid? I can’t see the fill tube, as it is covered by a flexible shroud type of tube, which I presume helps to keep it from freezing. In the past, (and now), if I suspect the issue is a frozen supply line, I attempt to thaw it by use of a heat gun on low to moderate heat. Has always worked well, when that was the problem. I did notice however, when looking at the water lines on the back of the fridge earlier today, the line supplying the ice maker appears to have about a ¾” air gap at the top, right before it enters the back of the freezer.

If you manually pour about 2/3 cup of water into the ice mold, does it freeze and harvest those cubes normally, or does it continue to spin continuously without stopping? After trying this, the ice maker made one full cycle, (keep in mind, in its current state this only takes 3 minutes), then stopped / froze up, way before where it should have, and did not harvest any ice. However, there were cubes formed waiting to be ejected, but again to no avail. I defrosted everything again, ice maker just kept running it’s 3 min cycle, and is now “frozen / stopped” in this state, without any additional water being added.

I appreciate the help/advice.

4

I really suspect the icemaker itself is the issue, It’s not calling for water (although I’d suggest testing the valve to make sure it’s operating} and it’s unable to harvest ice when cubes are present ( Whirlpool D7824706Q Refrigerator Ice Maker | Genuine OEM Part )

One last test we can do on the icemaker is jumper the contacts to see how it operates

.Whirlpool ice maker test points are located behind the small rectangular cover on the front of the ice maker head. They are designated by stamped letters (e.g., L, N, T, H, V, M) that allow you to check for voltage, test components, and manually cycle the unit.

L & N (Line & Neutral): Tests for incoming 120V AC power to the ice maker.

  • T & H (Thermostat & Heater): Used to manually force the ice maker to cycle. Bypasses the thermostat to check if the motor works.
  • L & V (Line & Valve): Used to manually test the refrigerator’s water inlet valve.
  • L & H (Line & Heater): Measures the resistance of the harvest heater.
  • L & M (Line & Motor): Measures the resistance of the ejector motor.

How to Manually Cycle (Jumper) the Ice Maker

If your ice maker has stopped making ice, you can manually force it to cycle using an insulated 14-gauge to 16-gauge copper wire:

  1. Remove the Cover: Pull off the front plastic cover of the ice maker module to expose the test holes
  2. Jumper T to H: Strip about 1/2 inch off both ends of your wire. Insert one end of the wire into T and the other into H. This bridges the connection.
  3. Initiate the Cycle: Hold the freezer door switch closed (if the unit is a door-mounted type) and wait a few seconds. You should hear the ejector motor start to spin.
  4. Remove the Wire: Once the motor begins the harvest cycle, remove the jumper wire. The ice maker will now complete a full cycle (rotating the fingers, heating the mold, filling with water).

If the motor does not run when jumping T and H, the control module is likely defective and requires replacement.

5

Thanks again for the tips / advice. Using a multimeter, I checked the following; L&N (119V); L&V (119V); L&H (119V); L&M (119V).

Using the Ohm setting, I couldn’t get a resistance reading for L&H or L&M. (I’m not sure if I did that correctly.)

Nothing happened when using the Jumper, (T to H). So, I will lean towards your original and subsequent conclusion, the ice maker itself has failed.

Now though, another couple of questions:

(1) Would you replace a $100 ice maker on a 27-year-old fridge, or just continue to make ice the old-fashioned way…that is using ice cube trays?

(2) Again, this is a side by side, and it’s a tight squeeze getting into the freezer compartment. I’ve seen a number of videos online about replacing this ice maker, including one from you guys. All of them show there are 3 screws to loosen/remove; 2 on top (loosen only); 1 on the bottom bracket (remove). My top two brackets appear to have “clips”, instead of the aforementioned screws…Any advice as to how these work, should I choose to replace the ice maker? Again, it’s a very tight space.

Again, I appreciate the insight and any advice offered.

6

While any outlay of cash is entirely up to you, in my opinion given how hard it is to access the ice maker to change it and the age of your unit, I would put the 100 or so that it would take to replace the icemaker back towards the purchase of a newer unit.

As far as the clips go, can you tell if they are plastic or metallic clips? Can you send me a picture of them?

7

I agree with your line of reasoning…where $$ would be best spent. I don’t plan on getting a new unit until this one completely craps out, and the $500-$1000 repair says go get a new one. My garage fridge is the only one I’ve ever actually purchased…when I bought my 1st house in Sep 1990. It’s an RCA, (made by GE), cost me $450, and is still going strong today!

Having said all that, I enjoy a challenge and like to fix things. I came across a YouTube video, (which now of course I can’t find), that showed the Tech remove the ice maker by removing the lower bracket screw, and simply lifting out (on the bottom), and down on the unit to release it from the top two tabs/clips. My question for you was; there’s not much room to maneuver, and do these clips have tabs at the bottom that have to be “released”, before pulling the bottom of the ice maker out? I just don’t want to break them.

The clips are plastic, and I am including a top and bottom photo. I couldn’t get a clear (non-blurry) photo of the bottom, due to the short distance from camera to the bracket I was dealing with.

Maytag Ice Maker Bottom 072226
Maytag Ice Maker Bottom 0722261920×2371 414 KB

Maytag Ice Maker Top (2) 072226
Maytag Ice Maker Top (2) 0722261920×1440 205 KB

8

I think once you remove the bottom screw you just tilt the icemaker out to clear the tabs

9

Appreciate the reply, and your conclusion of the probable removal. (Appears easier than I originally anticipated; other than disconnecting/reconnecting the wiring harness at the back of the freezer, but we shall see…should I choose to replace the ice maker)

On another note, if you had to buy a new unit, what (3) brands would you consider, and what (3) brands would you not. (I’m asking, as a replacement is going to be inevitable at some point, and I appreciate a Pros insight/knowledge)

10

In my personal opinion based on nothing other than my experiences the top 3 I would avoid are Frigidaire, LG & Samsung There are lots of the cheap Chinese made units out there too that should be avoided