Brand: Maytag Model Number: MHW5630HC3 Main Symptom: Won’t spin What happens & when:
Turns on, but won’t spin. Followed an 8 minute video by you all testing all components with a multi meter and everything checks good. The only thing I found was when the motor is unplugged the board top lug test 0v and the bottom 2 test 168v.
Running the diag cycle the washer will fill with water but not move past that. Power must be cycled to get water to drain or unlock. Washer motor has 12.8 ohms across all coils. I’m at a loss unless there’s a way to clear the F0E2 code.
Unplugged over night, all hoses removed, blown out and installed, drain cleaned.
Error Code (if any): F0E2
Parts or tests already tried: door lock switch
Photos / video link:
A reading of 168 VAC at the motor terminals on your Maytag MHW5630HC3 can definitely look concerning at first, but it’s actually pretty normal when you’re measuring an inverter-driven, 3-phase motor with a standard multimeter.
These washers use a Variable Frequency Drive (VFD) that sends out a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal instead of a standard AC voltage. Because of that, a regular multimeter can’t accurately measure the output and often displays a “ghost” or averaged voltage that doesn’t represent what’s actually being sent to the motor.
The best way to diagnose the motor is with the power disconnected using resistance tests:
Unplug the washer and disconnect the motor wire harness from the drive motor.
Test the motor windings.
Set your multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting and measure between each pair of the three motor terminals.
All three readings should be very close to one another (within about 1 Ω).
They will typically measure between 6 and 20 Ω.
If one reading is OL (open), much higher, or much lower than the others, the stator has likely failed and should be replaced.
Check for a short to ground.
Measure between each motor terminal and the unpainted metal of the motor housing.
You should read OL (no continuity) on every terminal.
If you get continuity or your meter beeps, the motor is shorted to ground and will need to be replaced.
The pressure sensor (often called a water level switch) for the Maytag MHW5630HC3 washing machine is Part #W11316246 (which replaced W11125159). It generally costs between $85 and $103. It regulates the water level by measuring air pressure in a clear plastic tube connected to the tub. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]
Symptoms of a bad sensor include overfilling, underfilling, or error codes (such as “LO” or “PF”) on the display. [1]
How to Replace the Pressure Sensor
Unplug the washer and remove the three 1/4-inch screws at the back of the top panel.
Slide the top panel backward, lift it up, and set it aside to locate the pressure switch at the top-right.
Disconnect the wiring harness by lifting the locking tab and pulling outward.
Carefully pull the clear plastic pressure hose off the sensor’s port.
Twist the sensor counter-clockwise to unlock it from the cabinet and lift it out.
Blow gently through the pressure hose to ensure it is not blocked by debris, then attach it to the new sensor.
Insert the new switch into the mounting slot and twist it clockwise until it clicks into place, then reattach the wiring harness and top panel. [1, 2, 3]
The motor tested good before but I checked again. 12.7 ohms across the phases, and no short to ground. The pressure switch you mentioned earlier only had 2.3v at the board. A video I juat watched said it should have almost 5. So is it possible the pressure switch is my problem
That was a no fix. The F1E3 (suds code) cleared. Tried to run a diag cycle and it kicked off after filling with water and threw a F3E1. It cleared and then tried again and now I have a F6E3 code that wont clear and still won’t spin. This being the 3rd code even though the checks on the ACU are good. Seems like the only logical thing that could be casting all these “ghost codes”. Unless you have something else to try first.
Even if the voltage and resistance checks pass, an ACU with an internal logic failure can generate multiple unrelated fault codes. I’ve seen failing ACUs start with a pressure-related code and then progress into communication errors exactly like you’re seeing.
If the pressure hose/air trap is confirmed clear and you’ve already verified the harness and connectors, the ACU becomes my primary suspect. A failing processor can easily produce what look like “ghost codes” because it’s misinterpreting sensor inputs and losing communication with other modules.
Okay I miss understood the previous message. I thought you meant the control panel not the ACU. I’m with you now! I didn’t use the correct terminology for this washer and it had my mind twisted up.