Maytag dryer not heating

Dryer Repair
1

Brand:Maytag
Model Number:MED6630HW0
Main Symptom:no heat
What happens & when: sometimes the dryer heats…sometimes it does not.

Error Code (if any): no
Parts or tests already tried: I have a Maytag Dryer, MED6630HW0. Several months ago it stopped heating, otherwise it ran fine. There are no errors on display.

Circuit breaker appears to work fine (not “tripped” and does turn dryer on/off)

Outlet tests correctly

Cable connection to dryer tests correctly

Inside the dryer

Heating element and heater box:

Heating element has continuity between the two terminals and no continuity between either terminal and the body (ground).

Thermal cut off and High Limit Thermostat (both on heater box) have continuity between the two terminals and no continuity at either terminal and the heater box (ground) .

Blower housing:

Thermal fuse has continuity between the two terminals and no continuity at either terminal and ground.

Thermistor has about 15k Ohms of resistance and drops very quickly when heated with a hair dryer.

When I put it all back together….it worked fine, until several months later (now). It is back to running as expected but no heat. I took everything apart and everything tested as before.

I entered the diagnostic mode; there are no error codes shown and there are no errors stored.

In the encoder test, all keys work as expected. They turn off as I press each key.

The automatic test cycle appears to run correctly, except there is no heat. It runs with “Enc” displayed for several minutes, then “but” displayed for several minutes then turns itself off.

After putting it back together, the dryer runs and sometimes heats….sometimes does not.

Is there a wire coming loose that I just tightened after disassembling (although, I made sure to push all connection together well), did I not test a component properly, or is there something else wrong?

Thanks for thoughts/suggestions
Photos / video link:

2

To me that sounds like the relay on the main control not always closing, the centrifugal switch on the motor not always closing, or pinched wiring somewhere between them.

The automatic test pretty well ignores all inputs other than what it is directing you to do.

You might run that test or a cycle where it should be heating and test voltage at the heater relay on the main board from black wire to red wire. If it is closed you should read about 0v AC or very low voltage, if it is staying open then you should read 240v AC as long as the wiring and centrifugal switch are good.

If you do read 0v at that relay, make sure to check black and red to ground or neutral just to be sure you’re getting your proper 240v.

3

Thank you for the quick response. I’ll try testing the voltage at the main board as you suggested. I did visually inspect wires mostly for lose connections but did not see any that looked like the insulation was compromised or kinked/bent in a concerning way. I was wondering about the centrifugal switch on the motor. Is there a way to test that other than replace the motor?

4

When you’re testing at the main board, disconnect the red wire on the heater relay before starting the cycle, test it to neutral or ground with the dryer running. That should be 120v, if it is there then the centrifugal switch closed. If it isn’t then most likely the centrifugal switch is bad since you’ve already checked wiring, thermostats, and fuses.

At the motor, with the belt switch tricked so that you can run it and at least 1 wire disconnected from the heater, you can test each red wire on the motor connector to ground or neutral for 120. If both of them have it then the centrifugal switch is good, if one does and one doesn’t then that switch isn’t closing.