I have a Maytag Centennial Top Load Washing Machine (Model #: MVWC400XW0) that does not spin during a SPIN cycle. I have attempted to get it to spin during a normal “Wash” cycle and a “Drain and Spin” cycle with no luck. The machine does go through each step of the cycle and it does drain water. One additional item I noticed is that it does not “lock” the lid during the spin cycle. I am able to freely move the bin in either direction with no friction. The motor seems to hum during the spin cycle.
This washer shouldn’t do anything unless the lid is locked. When you start a cycle, does it lock? After drain, does it unlock the lid right away? There is a manual inside the cabinet that will tell you how to get into diagnostic mode to check for error codes and run the machine through it’s functions.
It locks when I perform a wash. I ran the Diagnostic check. During the Automatic check, there appears to be a failure during the Motor Spins check. The WASH, RINSE and SPIN lights are green and the LID LOCK light flashes red (all previous tests it was solid red). I attempted to perform a Manual Test for Low Spin and High Spin, but the Green lights would flash the Lid Lock would not engage for either manual test. The Manual Drain test worked fine.
Update - I performed an Ohm test on the Lock switch, and it measured properly per the diagnostic instructions. It appears that the main board may be faulty.
Could also be the shift actuator which is a high failure item on this washer as are bad connections, broken wires and bad control boards. The shift actuator has an optical sensor that fits up into the gearcase and measures for basket rotation speed. It also operates a lever on the splutch to shift between agitate and spin. You can test the shift actuator with your multimeter. Check between the gray and black wires for +13 volts DC. Gray wire is negative. Check between the gray and pink wires for +5 volts DC or 0 volts. Slowly rotate the basket and it should switch between +5 and 0 volts at a rate determined by rotation speed. Check between the gray and blue wires for +5 and 0. Should be +5 in spin mode and 0 in agitate mode. Check that the splutch lever moves between agitate and spin when selected. You can check these voltages at the shift actuator or at the plug on the control board. J2 (blue,pink,gray,black).
So it looks like this is a common problem with Maytag, as I also have the same problem. Our washer machine is less than 3 years old!! I thought Maytag was suppose to be superior quality???
I have done a lot of research, and one person stated it was the actuator, which is only a 30 dollar part, and a 10 minute swap out. The part number is W10006355.
I have not tried replacing the actuator yet - I wanted to ask around to see if anyone had any luck with it first.
Calling Maytag was a WASTE of time. Their customer service is just as bad in quality as the Centennial Washer they make! Very disappointed in Maytag…
I also have one of these Centennial washers. Mine has only been used probably 25-30 times is all. My Maytag washer mvwc300xw0 does pretty much this exact same thing, too. It will run thru the wash cycle fine and when it reaches the spin cycle, it will start the spin and then I’ll hear a kind of sound like something switches abruptly, sometimes more than twice or three times, kind’ve like a power relay switching. Then the lid lock light starts flashing and then it will slowly come to a stop but the lid lock light will continue to flash for a few minutes and then it eventually turns off but the spin light still will stay on and it then just sits…
I did do a fault scan, and three of the codes that I could decipher are 1) something to do with the main control, I think, 2) for something related to basket speed not reached, and 3) something to do with an incorrect key, or key code?
I know I’m a bit vague. I’ll try harder next time I have time to mess with this machine…
OK I thought I’d update my posting earlier and say I began testing for the main control fault and immediately found a very low voltage reading on the optical speed sensor where it’s harness plugs into the main control. This sensor is part of the shift actuator. Voltage reads normal at the main control after unplugging that harness. So, perhaps the sensor has shorted out. I ordered a new actuator online and will post back if it fixes my issue as well. ~$37 shipped. $60 at the local Whirlpool dealer, which they did have In stock.
Update again. New actuator installed and checked voltage and it read even lower vs. what the manual calls for! Nevertheless the machine is working now as it should with the new actuator installed…
Same problem here. The washer is 2 years old.
I read this post, bought the actuator and it worked.
Thanks to the administrators of this forum, and the participants here.
I have the same issue but can’t get to the diags routines. I found this PDF file which has a sequence to get into the diags but it won’t work so it must not be for the MVWC400XW. I run through the initiation sequence on page two and the washer doesn’t do anything.
The washer, as others, is washing, draining, just not spinning. But if I then put it on the drain and spin cycle, it will spin. So that’s why I would like to run the diags. Can someone please post the initiation sequence and how to run the diags?
[quote=Ashiro;860510]Same problem here… Part is now $48 + shipping.. Would love to know how to do the diagnostics test because of course, can’t find my manual!!!
Help!!![/quote]
My problem was the actuator. Here’s a link to my copy of the manual that includes the diagnostics instructions. Tip: when doing the knob sequence of turns to invoke the diags, do NOT do it slowly.
I also have had this problem and after great deliberation and testing I found a mouse wad in the housing for the main mount and the shutter was blocked and could not count rpms ,cleaned out and it is in motion !
Keep the back door closed so the mice wont get in .. cost $ saving money on AC bill.. ha ha
Nevertheless the machine is working now as it should with the new actuator installed…