Last week the oven element in my Magic Chef/Maytag model CER1360AAW blew. When it blew I was in the living room, and it looked like someone was welding in the kitchen. The element actually split in the left rear corner, about two inches in front of the screw/plate combo that hold the element to the stove’s back wall.
I replaced the element today, but when powered up the stove light is on and so are both elements (the broiler element and the oven element.) What part or parts do I need to test or replace?
Your parts Parts for Magic Chef CER1360AAW Range - AppliancePartsPros.com
First off check the electric receptacle at the wall make sure you have 240v going to unit…L1 to Nuetral-L1 to ground 120 120…L2 to nuetral 120v-L2 to ground 120v…L1 to L2 240v…
Your main control possibly went out on the unit when this happend. Inspect your wire harness thoroughly from the main control at top with the clock leading to that element you replaced make sure there are no burned wires or connectors on that harness. If it looks good turn the bake or broil function on and make sure you have 240v at the element connections you replaced. If you dont have 240 then your main control probably got fried also replace it.
I’ll perform those checks tomorrow. In the meantime, I’ve looked at the parts diagrams on this website but didn’t find anything labeled as a “main control.” Is there another name I should be looking for? I surmise this part should be found in the control panel section, right? If so and it’s not listed, might this mean the part is not available? This stove is about fifteen years old now…
Okay, I’ve got 130, 130 and 260 volts in the electric receptacle, and 260v at the bake element connections. All the wiring and connector’s look good…no signs of burning whatsoever, at either end. The main control appears exceptionally clean too, with no signs of burning or shorting…but it’s probably still the culprit if I were to make a wild guess.
According to the wiring diagram, this ‘main control’ would actually be the thermostat, unless I’m interpreting the diagram incorrectly.
The main control is part #2 in this diagram.
Change the batteries in your multimeter you should only be getting 240v on both or adjust your manual meter. But if you traced everything and the wires and connections look clean then it’s probably the main control these are common pieces to replace in ranges. But the fact you get the right voltage is weird unless it drops midcycle as your cooking which happens with faulty control boards
Is the main control panel integrated with the clock? I did see a circuit board attached to the back of the clock during my inspection. According to the diagram this part is no longer available.
Searching for this control panel with cross reference information from the following link found zero results…
I would say that your oven thermostat is shot.
I am assuming that the light that is on is the oven indicator light and not the oven interior/door light.
My oven just began acting up again. The problem now is it doesn’t hold the heating temperature I set.
For example, if I set the oven to 350 degrees, it only heats to 250. If I increase the temperature to 400 it sometimes warms more, and sometimes stays the same 250 degrees.