Magic Chef Dishwasher not draining

Dishwasher Repair
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1

Dishwasher will not drain. It appears that the timer is not engaging the solenoid that allows the cycle to drain.

Timer dial turns through cycle to the stop position. Machine seems to stay in the “wash” cycle throughout the time it runs.

Should I try timer or the solenoid.

Thanks -

2

Here are your parts
Pump assembly replacement parts for MAGIC CHEF DU75CA-01 Dishwasher - Undercounter | AppliancePartsPros.com

Should I try timer or the solenoid.
I would get a meter and measure across the solenoid when it should be powered. If you see 120 volts then either the solenoid is toast or you have a mechanical problem with the solenoid or the flapper valve.

If no power then it is either the timer or a wire from the timer to the solenoid is broken/open.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
You can then check the voltage and continuity of parts.

A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.

3

I did the troubleshooting below, still no drain.
Then I disconnected the drain hose from the v[COLOR=black]acuum breaker on the sink top connecting to the garbage disposal, aimed the hose into a bucket, cycled the timer and the tub drained into the bucket.
I pulled the chrome cap off the breaker, unscrewed the top and found a wad of gunk blocking the flow.
I removed the gunk, reassembled all and the (18 year old) washer works like new. While I was at it I cleaned the tub float and door mounted spot remover. Wow! I’m ready for a few more years.:slight_smile:
Mike

[/COLOR][quote=denman;158068]Here are your parts
Pump assembly replacement parts for MAGIC CHEF DU75CA-01 Dishwasher - Undercounter | AppliancePartsPros.com

Should I try timer or the solenoid.
I would get a meter and measure across the solenoid when it should be powered. If you see 120 volts then either the solenoid is toast or you have a mechanical problem with the solenoid or the flapper valve.

If no power then it is either the timer or a wire from the timer to the solenoid is broken/open.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
You can then check the voltage and continuity of parts.

A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.[/quote]