Brand: LG
Model Number: LRMVS3006S/02
Main Symptom: Ice makers not working in fresh food or freezer
What happens & when: no Ice
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
Brand: LG
Model Number: LRMVS3006S/02
Main Symptom: Ice makers not working in fresh food or freezer
What happens & when: no Ice
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
On the LG LRMVS3006S/02, since both the fresh-food/door ice maker and the freezer Craft Ice maker are not producing ice, I would not start by replacing either ice maker. Two ice makers failing together makes me want to check temperature, water supply, and the controls they share first.
LG’s service information wants the ice-making compartment below about 10°F before chasing the ice maker itself.
Put thermometers in these locations and leave them several hours, preferably overnight:
This is especially important on this model. If the freezer is running around 15–20°F, both ice makers can quit or become intermittent even though the refrigerator still seems reasonably cold.
Door/SpacePlus ice maker: Remove the ice bin and locate the small TEST button underneath the ice maker. Make sure the ice maker’s power switch is ON, then press and hold TEST for about 3 seconds. LG states that the test should cycle the ice maker through its operating sequence.
Watch what happens:
Craft Ice maker: Pull out the freezer drawer/bin enough to access the Craft Ice maker. Press and hold its TEST button for more than 3 seconds. It should perform its diagnostic sequence: initialize → eject/harvest → water fill.
Don’t repeatedly run this test if there’s already water in the mold—you can overfill it.
Since both aren’t working, verify that the refrigerator water dispenser has a strong, normal stream.
If dispenser flow is also weak, check:
LG specifically lists inadequate/restricted water supply as a cause of poor or no ice production.
If the dispenser has strong water flow and both ice makers cycle but neither receives water during their tests, then we need to move toward the valve/control circuit rather than the house supply.
Before disconnecting anything, look closely at the display for an error. This refrigerator has ice-system-specific diagnostics, including errors involving the ice-maker tray sensor and ice-maker electrical components.
If you have IS E, IU E, It E, IF E or anything similar, tell me exactly what’s displayed because that changes the testing considerably.
The quickest diagnostic path is:
Actual freezer/ice-room temperatures → test door ice maker → test Craft Ice maker → determine whether each one harvests and whether each one fills.
Because both ice makers are down, the results of those tests are much more useful than replacing another ice maker.
If you give me (1) freezer temperature, (2) refrigerator temperature, (3) what the door ice maker does when TEST is pressed, and (4) what the Craft Ice maker does when TEST is pressed, I can take you into the connector/pin voltage and resistance tests with your multimeter and narrow this down to the sensor, valve, wiring, cooling system, or main board.