Model: LG Tromm WH2477HW
Age of Machine: approx. 4 years
Symptoms: Water remains in the drum after a wash cycle.
Problem: The drain pump was sluggish due to sediment build up inside the pump.
Drain Motor: 4681EA2001D
Let’s Get Started!
- Unplug the washer and shut off the water supply lines. Remove the drain access cover, pull the drain hose out, pull the plug out of the end of the hose and drain the tub. In my case, the hose was plugged with debris, so I had to partially screw open the strainer to drain the water out one tray at a time.
2. Remove the strainer and clean out all debris. Remove the Philips screws circled in red. Keep track of which screws go where. The screws on this machine are all different lengths. Pull the drain cover away from the machine.
3. Remove the two Philips screws circled in red. Keep track of which screws go where. The screws on this machine are all different lengths.
4. Slide the top cover toward the back of the machine. I found it necessary to hit the cover with the palm of my hand to get it to move back. Remove the top cover and set aside.
5. Remove the detergent drawer by pressing down on the light blue latch (red arrow) and pulling the drawer from the machine.
6. Disconnect the three wiring harness connectors at the front of the machine by pushing down on the latch and pulling apart.
7. Remove two Philips screws circles in red. These screws are stainless steel. Don’t mix them up with the other ones.
8. Remove the Philips screw circles in red.
9.Lift the front plastic cover up at the two places (where the red arrows are shown) and remove the front control panel. Set the control panel aside.
10. Open the front door and remove gasket retaining spring. In order to do this you will need to stretch the spring with a large pair of snap ring pliers or in my case, I modified a cheap pair of $7 brake spring pliers that I picked up a Princess Auto.
11. Pull the rubber door gasket away from the front sheet metal opening.
12. Remove 4 Philips screws (circled in red). Tilt the front cover forward to access the door switch.
13. Disconnect the wiring harness connector at the door switch.
14. Remove the front cover with door and set aside.
15. Pinch the hose clamps and remove them. Pull the two hoses off of the pump casing. Remove the two Philips screws circled in red.
16. Push down on the plastic tab to release the latch that holds the pump to the base (you can’t actually see this tab, you just have to “feel” for it), then slide the pump back into the machine to remove it. Disconnect the electrical wires. Brown = LINE. Black = NEUTRAL.
17. Remove the three Philips screws (circled in red) and separate the pump motor from the pump casing. There are more than 3 holes on the pump casing. Make a mental note which holes the screws came from.
18. Clean the casing out with hot water and an old toothbrush. Using an ohmmeter, check that the resistance across the motor terminals measures between 10-20 ohms. If the resistance is outside this range, replace the motor. Mine measured 13 ohms. Bench test the motor with 110VAC to ensure that the motor runs. Mine worked OK.
19.Using compressed air, I blew out the obstruction in the small rubber drain hose. There was an accumulation of grit and sediment in my hose.
20. Next, I connected compressed air to the green rubber boot that was formerly connect, d to the drain pump and blew air through it to ensure that the hose was not blocked. Mine was not blocked.
21.Next, I temporarily connected the front control panel, the door switch and the reassembled drain pump back up to the washing machine and temporarily ran the machine though a QC test mode by following the instructions found on page 16 of the service manual found at this link.
At steps 1,2,3, and 11, the drain pump ran and I measured 110VAC across the motor terminals. This gave me the confidence to know that the problem was solved.
[/COLOR]22. Reassemble the machine in the reverse order and test by running the washer through one complete cycle.
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