Brand: LG Induction Model Number: LSE4617ST Main Symptom: Left side burners failed What happens & when: persistent
Error Code (if any): LG ThinQ called out Induction error
Parts or tests already tried: EBR79332510
Hello,
One week ago, using stovetop a loud pop and left side burners died. They make the ‘no pan on the stove’ song. Right side burners operate fine.
I ran the ThinQ diagnostics and it called out a failed inverter.
I called LG for more diagnostic info and all they gave me was to call a repair person. I’d would be happy to do that, but I live in Rural area and no LG service people will come. One person in town will do appliance repairs.
So DIY route chosen:
I ordered the left Side induction PCB and have taken the stove apart. I found a 20 amp fuse near the PCB that came off of the Noise Filter PCB.
I have not installed the new InverterPCB, but want to know path forward?
Order the Noise PCB and replace Both inverter and Noise PCB?
Oder the Noise PCB and try that without replacing inverter PCB?
Drop a new 20 amp fuse in and see how that goes? (Sorta joking on that one)
Running tests this morning. When left side burner is turned on left LED bar does 3 flashes (Communication Error) and error code CF7 (IH Left Comm. Error) (open/short).
I ordered a Noise PCB just to be safe. I buttoned up the range and it’s back in operation until the Noise PCB arrives when I’ll replace both parts at once.
Was there any indicators of damage on the inverter or wires at all? Aside from the loud pop, was there anything else that was abnormal? The fuse failing is a sure sign that there may be something happening to cause it to fail.
I looked the boards over and saw no scorching or burnt lines. The fuse popped hard enough that one of the caps came off and it flew out of the holder. Something went to pretty much a dead short. I have an inverter in hand and now a noise board on order. I figure replace maximally to prevent replacement parts from being fried.
If the front left and right, and the left rear and center rear elements have a 10 Ohms resistance reading across the coils (right rear should have a reading of 570 Ohms), and nothing is grounded out, then replacing both of those parts at the same time would be the safest bet. I agree that something had to have gone to a dead short to get the fuse to pop like that, and it definitely seems like the left side is going to be the main culprit.
So tore it all apart on Sunday, replaced the Inverter PCB, noise board PCB. My meter read zero ohms on both the left side coils. As the Left rear wasn’t in use when the failure happened I assumed it was something about a DC ohm test on a reactive AC load, so I continued.
Put it all back together, only had 1 sheet metal screw left over. All is working, no callouts in the ThinQ app or codes on the display..
Anybody following this, you need to carefully make sure that the two probes coming from the coil go back to same locations on the PCBs. It’s not that difficult, but if you cross wire them it will see no pan on the burner you are trying to turn on.
Stop to finish maybe 2.5 to 3 hours, (yea I’m slow).
Thank you for the update. I will certainly do my best to remember the resistance reading showing as 0 Ohms and working since this is an induction unit.