Brand:LG
Model Number:
Main Symptom: ne error
What happens & when:
I have an LG dishwasher, model LDT7808BM, displaying an nE error code. If I turn the power off and back on, it will work for one or two cycles, but then the nE error returns.
I have replaced the Vario/diverter motor, part number 4681ED3001D, twice. Each replacement works for about a month, then the nE error comes back. Could this indicate that the main control board is failing?
Yes — the main control board is a plausible cause, especially since you’ve replaced the Vario/diverter motor twice and each new motor temporarily resolves the problem. But before replacing the board, I would check the diverter position-sensing circuit and wiring harness, because those can produce exactly the same nE code.
LG defines nE as a Vario motor error: the dishwasher isn’t seeing the expected operation/position of the mechanism that routes water between the spray arms. Your 4681ED3001D is indeed the diverter motor responsible for controlling that water flow.
The pattern you’re seeing is particularly important:
new motor → works normally ~1 month → nE returns → power reset temporarily restores operation.
That makes me less inclined to blame the motor itself a third time.
The diverter system isn’t just the motor. The control board has to know where the diverter is positioned. There is a position switch/sensing circuit associated with it. A failure there, or an intermittent connection between it and the control board, can make a perfectly good motor appear defective.
Interestingly, another LG owner reported essentially your exact situation—replacing 4681ED3001D multiple times, having it work for several months, and then getting nE again. The repair guidance in that case was to inspect the position/microswitch and wiring between the diverter assembly and control board, because that switch reports the motor’s position back to the board.
I’d troubleshoot in this order:
One thing I would not do is buy a third 4681ED3001D without further diagnosis. Two motors developing the identical failure after roughly the same amount of use suggests something upstream or mechanical is causing the nE condition rather than simply bad luck with motors.
If you have a multimeter, I can walk you through testing the diverter motor, position switch, wiring harness, and main-board output on the LDT7808BM so we can determine whether the board is actually bad before you spend the money on it.
I do have a multimeter
For the LG LDT7808BM dishwasher, here’s a practical multimeter approach to isolate a diverter/multi-motion motor or position-feedback fault. Disconnect power before resistance/continuity tests; only do live-voltage checks if you’re equipped to work safely around mains voltage.
Unplug the dishwasher and access the diverter motor connector at the sump.
Disconnect the motor connector so you’re measuring the motor itself, not the control board.
Set the meter to Ω and measure across the two motor-drive terminals.
Don’t condemn it solely because it has resistance; the motor can still bind mechanically.
The diverter assembly needs to tell the control where the valve is positioned. Identify the position/feedback terminals separately from the motor-drive pair.
With power OFF and connector disconnected, use continuity or resistance mode while slowly rotating/operating the diverter mechanism where mechanically possible.
You’re looking for a definite state change:
Closed: roughly 0–a few Ω
Open: OL
If the feedback stays permanently OL or permanently closed through the mechanism’s switching positions, suspect the position switch/sensor or diverter assembly.
If this version uses an electronic position sensor rather than a simple mechanical contact, don’t apply this continuity test blindly—the exact connector/pinout matters.
This is important because a broken wire can look exactly like a failed motor.
With dishwasher power disconnected, unplug the harness at both the diverter and main PCB.
Measure each corresponding conductor end-to-end:
Board pin → diverter connector pin
Expected result is typically very low resistance, ideally around 0–1 Ω.
Then check each conductor against:
These should normally read OL unless the wiring diagram specifically shows them connected.
While measuring, wiggle the harness, particularly around the sump, door transition, clips, and connector strain points. If the reading jumps between continuity and OL, you’ve likely found an intermittent conductor/terminal.
This test is LIVE VOLTAGE.
Reconnect the system and back-probe the motor-drive wires at the diverter connector or corresponding PCB connector.
Set the meter to the appropriate AC-voltage range and run a cycle/service-test function that commands the diverter to change position.
The important diagnostic distinction is:
| Test result | Likely direction |
|---|---|
| Board commands voltage + motor doesn’t move | Diverter motor/mechanical problem |
| Voltage at PCB but not at motor | Harness/connector problem |
| No output from PCB when diverter is being commanded | PCB/control issue or control isn’t commanding it |
| Motor moves but position feedback doesn’t change | Position switch/sensor or mechanical indexing problem |
| Feedback changes at diverter but not at PCB | Harness/connector problem |