Ice is forming on the fins in the freezer which is causing the temperature to slowly go up.
Would appreciate any help troubleshooting and part reccommendations.
I first replaced the Bimetal which apparently works for most people.
This didn’t work.
I tried to measure the resistance across the defrost heater. It was hard to get a solid reading but i measured 30 Ohms which according to Chat gpt it was good.
However, the heater is encased in ice, although maybe a little bit on the right side isn’t.
So i think its not being triggered or not working.
Does anyone have suggests on the next fixes to try?
I thinking heater itself, connections to heater or some timer that isn’t working for it to go on.
If its a timer for the cycle, I don’t see that that as a part and maybe the fridge is Toast.
I’d like to rescue it, its a good old non-digital fridge.
On this model, I would start by checking the drain tube and making sure there isn’t any debris clogging it. A blocked drain can prevent water from flowing properly to the drain pan, causing water to accumulate where it shouldn’t.
You should also test the evaporator fan and verify that it’s operating correctly. If the fan isn’t running properly, it can affect airflow and contribute to cooling and moisture-related issues.
After you cleared all of the ice and plugged the unit back in, did you check whether the defrost heater was getting hot? I would also verify that the heater is receiving the proper voltage during the defrost cycle.
Sometimes the evaporator fan may be running, but very weakly, or the motor may be cycling on and off intermittently. A weak fan can cause poor airflow and lead to cooling or defrost issues.
I would thoroughly check the temperature sensor, defrost heater, fan motor, and wiring connections just to make sure nothing is being overlooked
I see that the black heat element is actually not encased but the fins are still encased. I measured its resistenc with some difficulty before at 30 ohms but I still wonder if its not heating enough or being triggered.
The bimetal i replaced.
The fan seems to be working well.
I don’t know what to do with the thing in black foam. If its a thermost i’m not sure how to test it.
There is a bad gasket. But i partly repaired it and it was bad for years without causing frost this bad. I haven’t opened it yet, in hopes i might return it if i cant fix the issue.
Do you know where this thermostat would be for me to test it?
Whats the easiest way to test the defrost heater. Frankly it seems easier to just install a new one and see if it fixes it?
If its not these things and is a control board, I didn’t see that as an available part.
I’m trying to decide at what point to quit, but I would like to fix it just out of spite haha.
It looks like the thermostat is the component on the right side of the fan, where the black tape is located.
Based on the symptoms, the most likely causes are the defrost timer, defrost heater, or defrost thermostat.
Faulty defrost timer: The defrost timer controls when the freezer switches between cooling mode and defrost mode. Under normal operation, it cycles throughout the day to prevent frost from building up on the evaporator coils. If the timer fails, the defrost cycle may not activate, allowing frost to accumulate.
Faulty defrost heater: If the defrost heater is not working properly, it won’t melt the frost from the evaporator coils during the defrost cycle, causing ice buildup.
Faulty defrost thermostat: The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils and signals the heater when to turn on and off. If the thermostat is defective, it may prevent the heater from turning on, which can also lead to excessive frost buildup.
The door seal could also be contributing to the problem. I know you mentioned it’s been that way for a while, but over time even a small gap can allow warm, moist air to enter the freezer. Eventually, that extra moisture can cause significant frost accumulation.
To test the defrost thermostat, remove it from the appliance and use a multimeter set to continuity or ohms. Since it’s temperature-activated, test it both at room temperature and at freezing temperatures to verify that it opens and closes properly.
