[LEFT][COLOR=#000000]I replace my water filter regularly and upon the last replacement my ice maker stopped ejecting ice. I replaced the unit and after ejecting 1 tray of ice it will not eject again. Ice tray is full and frozen. LED light is flashing twice repeatedly. I unplugged refridgerator for a half a minute to see if it would reset but nothing changed. Please help. It has been 2 weeks and I am getting really frustrated.:eek:
[quote=padawanbear;394097][LEFT]I replace my water filter regularly and upon the last replacement my ice maker stopped ejecting ice. I replaced the unit and after ejecting 1 tray of ice it will not eject again. Ice tray is full and frozen. LED light is flashing twice repeatedly. I unplugged refridgerator for a half a minute to see if it would reset but nothing changed. Please help. It has been 2 weeks and I am getting really frustrated.:eek:
Replacing the water filter did not have anything to do with the ice maker, I’m sure you know that. Based on your post description, I would susupect the I/R sensor system for the dispenser, on the walls of the freezer. AP5956767
Try this,
Open the freezer door, the LED on the right will be blinking. press in on the emitter flapper on the left side of the opening. If the LED continues to blink, repalce the emitter board kit.
I have the same problem as Padawanbear. Replaced the entire ice maker. Will make one tray, then fill with water, but will not eject the ice. If I take it out and put it back in the same thing happens. The LED is blinking, and if I close the flapper door it stays solid. Would that mean the board needs replacing too? Thanks.
Thanks for responding so quickly Joe. I’ve already spent $300 on the stupid thing:cool: Could you tell me what the correct temp should be for the freezer? Someone else suggested that I have it too cold…? I have it set at 2 right now.
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Oh yeah, and as far as I can remember, the ice maker didn’t have a wire arm on it, and of course didn’t come with one when I replaced it. I have read some posts talking about one being on it. Would that be a problem?
Yes, It would not be the first time, a test indicated the boards were communicating, and a board be bad, it’s more common than you’d think. You’ve also replaced the icemaker, eliminating that component as a possible issue, so you’re pretty much back to a failed board.
The reccomended “food product temperature” in your freezer is 0 to 3 dgrs.F.(air temp. would be 5 to 7 dgrs.F.) and your ice maker is designed to operate at a temperature of 14 dgrs.F.optimally. A cooks pocket thermometer in a cup of water works very good and accurate.
The icemaker in your refrigerator, does not have a sensor or bail arm, thats normal. The I/R sensor system (boards) take the place of the bail arm, and when the dispenser bucket fills to a preset level, the I/R beam is broken, and the ice maker turns off, until the ice level is reduced enough to allow the beam to complete.
