KitchenAid won't start

Dishwasher Repair
1

Hi there,

Last night when I attempted to run my dishwasher I found that none of the LEDs on the control panel would light up. After reading online, it looks like my thermal fuse may need to be replaced.

  1. Could you please provide the part number I can order?
  2. If I access fuse, will I be able to tell visually that it has blown?

Many thanks,

Jeremy

2

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KUDS03FTSS3 models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Note that the SS0 actually has a parts diagrams the others do not.

The thermal fuse is a bi-metal AP4423189 (Item 3 in Section 2)

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/TechSheets_11_17_09/Tech%20Sheet%20-%20W10130990.pdf

[COLOR=“RoyalBlue”]

  1. Could you please provide the part number I can order?[/COLOR]
    See above

[COLOR=“RoyalBlue”]2) If I access fuse, will I be able to tell visually that it has blown?[/COLOR]
No, the only way to tell is with a meter.

If unit seems totally dead then it is always a good practice to check that the unit is getting power. Sometimes even the wirenut connections in the terminal box can become bad over time.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity

  1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
  2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
  3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.

3

Well I swapped in a new bi-metal fuse, but still nothing. There is power at both the fuse and the door switch. I’m wondering if it’s going to need a whole new control board? Is there an easy way to tell if the board needs to be replaced before I call a service man from Kitchenaid?

Thanks again,

jeremy

4

There is no easy way to check the board if it seems totally dead.

You said that there was power to the door switches , have you checked the switches to be sure they are OK and are being closed.

If you check for power at the board and it is OK then the board is probably toast.