Dishwasher fills, does not wash, and then drains… where to start?
Here is your parts
Model KUDI01ILBL3
Here is a tech sheet
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208537797.pdf
Use the tech sheet and see if you can troubleshoot the unit.
If unit’s timing is correct and it just not washing, then check to see if the wash motor is getting voltage when it should.
Could be something as simple as a broken wire where the cables go from the door to under the cabinet.
So… I put it in diagnostic mode and then how do I “check the timing?” Sorry… totally new to this!
You are not really checking the timing you just want to see if you can get the wash motor to run.
Just go slowly through the tech sheet to see if anything just seems strange.
I put it in diagnostic mode and stepped through the cycles… it fills just fine… when it enters the “wash” cycle the motor buzzes but never sprays any water… then it hits the drain cycle and drains just fine. Is the motor bad?
Could be you have something jammed in the chopper or impeller.
You will have to open it up to check this
I will look to see if I can find you some decent instructions
I think I can do this… I took it all apart to clean it once about a year ago… this shouldn’t be too tough. Thanks!
If I don’t find a jam/obstruction… what’s the next step?
This may help if you get stuck
Replacing Kitchenaid and Whirlpool Tall Tub Dishwasher Pumps
And this just for your info
Kitchenaid Dishwasher making Noise
If the motor chopper/impeller turns easily by hand then it is probably either the motor itself or the capacitor
I’ve got the entire sump assem. out now… how do I troubleshoot whether it’s the cap or the motor itself?
Do you have an ohm meter?
If yes, what type digital or analogue?
A meter will let you do some basic checking of the motor and the capacitor.
It will do a basic check and show some faults but will not do an absolute check.
I am not quite sure how to explain what I mean, as an example measuring the capacitor. It will check that the capacitor is not a dead short or that it is not an open and that it can take a charge. It will not check it at the operating voltage levels so if the capacitor is breaking down at a higher voltage, it cannot check this. Special equipment is required to do an absolute test.
Hope the above makes sense.
You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
- Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
- Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
- When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale’s dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it’s use.
I went ahead and bought the complete motor/wash assem. This included the capacitor and basically everything else… Installed it, checked for leaks… still have the same problem!
What’s next?!
So it fills and the motor just hums like it used to.
Correct?
Something very strange is going on.
Check across the motor for voltage.
Should be 120 volts.
You’re exactly right.
I know how to use a multi-meter to check… can I check at the motor connector (with it disconnected?) or do I need to have the motor connected while testing (which is going to be very, very tricky to do!)
Thanks again for the help!
Would be best to do it with the motor actually in circuit, that way you will know what the actual voltage is that the motor is seeing. Then if it is low disconnect the motor and try it again to see if there is any change.
Sometimes a device can draw down the voltage. For instance if there is a bad connection which adds resistance to the circuit, once current passes through this bad connection it will drop voltage but if you just measure it without any current draw the voltage looks OK.
If it is difficult to get your meter leads onto the motor plug when it is connected, you may have to get a couple pieces of insulated wire, strip both ends back, attach these across the motor, then tape them in place so they cannot fall out or short and then measure across the other ends.
Or if you have alligator clips/wires.
I think I’ll pull the wash assem. back out – this should allow me access to the motor leads and I’ll be able to meter them. I’ll let you know what I find out.
Thanks for the help…
Ok. I checked voltage at the controller … is this ok? It was drawing 118.8V when the pump was humming.
Are you starting to get as frustrated as I am???
So maybe a recap will help
- Motor rotates easily by hand re: is not jammed
- Pump and capacitor are new and we assume OK, getting a bad one is unlikely.
- Voltage at control board is good
Only thing I can think of is something is dropping the voltage down between the control board and the motor.
The million dollar is what and where??
I do know that there have been problems with rinse aid leaking down onto the wires in the door and causing all sorts of problems but do not believe your unit was involved in this recall.
Run your fingers along the wires going to the motor to see if there is a soft spot or a kink or any indication that it has overheated.
Could try measuring the wires from the control board to the motor for resistance, they will have to be disconnected at the motor end to ensure you do not get an alternate/parallel circuit path reading.
I am afraid you are going to have to measure the voltage at the motor with the motor connected.
If that is approximately 120 volts then I am STUMPED.
If this is the case the only thing you can do, that I can think of is a bench test. This would involve pulling the motor, attaching a line cord to it then plugging in the line cord to see if it will run.
Probably will need two people to do this as someone will have to hold the motor assembly down on the bench/table so it does not take of if the motor starts.
Starting to think this machine is messing with us!!!
What is the possibility that I have two bad motors?
Here is what I’ve figured out:
-
Put 120V to old motor (I believe I did this correctly… the connector had two heavy gauge blue/yellow wires, I hooked this up to a 120v source, I left the black pin disconnected) – all the old motor did was BUZZ.
-
Checked resistance of wires between controller and new-motor – these were fine.
-
Checked for 120V at new-motor – checked out.
I don’t see what else it could be… I have not bench tested the new-motor for problems yet, but I am pulling my hair out with this damn thing. Any other advice before I go back to the person I bought the motor from?
First I assume you left the capacitor attached to the old motor when your bench tested it.
Second I am not sure if you connected it up correctly.
If your unit is the same as a picture I found on a Kitchenaid motor then the hook up would be incorrect. The pictured shower blue and yellow as the wires going to the capacitor, if you connected just across the capacitor then it was not connected correctly.
Just to make sure you have it right, take a look at the tech sheet.
Disconnect the capacitor
Should have a common, a run winding (3.7 ohms) and a aux winding 6.25 ohms).
Should be able to figure it out with the meter.
You want to connect to the common and the run connections with the capacitor reinstalled.
The connector (on the motor) had 4 pins on it:
Pin 1: Female - Yellow, 10 gauge
Pin 2: Male - Black, 20 gauge
Pin 3: Male - Blue, 10 gauge
Pin 4: empty
The capacitor had two wires running to it, Yellow and Blue (both 10 gauge.)
When I bench tested it, I left the capacitor hooked up and connected Pin 1 and Pin 3 to 120V. Based on your descriptions, this does sound correct. It made the same noise that it made when it engaged while installed.