Brand: Hello I have a kitchenmaid dishwasher model # KDFE104DBL5 I have replaced the following parts after chasing an initial failure of the diverter seal and water inlet valve:
New Main pump assembly
New Drain Pump
New Thermostat
New Control board
New Turbidity sensor
New Heating element
No codes are present after running diagnostics, the incoming water temp is well over 120 Degrees F , the heating element is active, the failure (blinking sanitize light) only occurs when a cycle using this feature is chosen. All other cycles run fine.
Any help is very much appreciated Model Number: Main Symptom: What happens & when:
Error Code (if any): no codes present
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
Sanitized LED Blinks or Incomplete Sanitization Message at End of Cycle (Control Could Not Confirm Sanitization Achieved.)
Causes and checks:
Door opened during
final rinse or dry. Instruct customer.
Incoming water
under 84°F (29°C). 1. Be sure dishwasher is connected to the hot water supply. 2. Confirm temperature at sink (recommend 120°F [49°C]). Instruct customer to run water at sink before running dishwasher. 3. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power, check all connections, and measure resistance in Temperature Sensing circuit. Replace OWI if resistance is high.
Line voltage too low to heat fast enough. Check power source. Confirm at least 100 VAC.
Heating problem.
Refer to “Service Error Codes Table.” 7-1
Intermittent door switch/latch connection. See same checks as for 5-1 error. Refer to “Service Error Codes Table.”
Thermistor/OWI problem. Refer to “Service Error Codes Table.” 3-1 3-2
Air pressure surging
in dishwasher due to
washing with high suds
causes brief opening of
door switch contacts
during final rinse. Refer to “Service Error Codes Table.” 6-3
I found this is the tech sheet. One should be inside your dishwasher.
Thanks for the reply I ended up removing the dishwasher and I re-seated all of the wire harness plugs. Then ran diagnostics no codes were present so I then ran a full wash cycle with sanitize and it worked great.
Another sanitize cycle was attempted however this one failed to sanitize. Given the extensive list of parts that have been replaced I have ordered a wiring harness.
Followup: I have suspected a voltage sag while under high temp stress, all along but didn’t want to take on installing a new dedicated feed to the machine. Today I installed a dedicated feed with new breaker and current code Romex. The machine ran a sanitize cycle no issues. I will run another cycle tomorrow to pressure test the repair. I figured out that the electrician had this original feed serving the washing machine and the dishwasher. The run is 30 years old and has been stressed many times at the machine moving in and out of the cabinet for repairs.
Dishwasher (posted 2010) - 110 - 120 volt, 60 hertz, properly grounded circuit protected by a minimum 15 amp breaker or fuse ( d/w without temp boost ) to a maximum of 20 amp breaker or fuse ( d/w with temp boost ) #14 gauge house wire minimum for 15 amp protection, #12 gauge is a must for 20 amp protection. A separate (dedicated ) circuit serving this appliance is recommended.
Dishwasher Built in (posted 2021) - 120-volt, 60 Hz, AC-only, 15amp or 20amp, fused electrical supply, copper wire only, a time-delay fuse or circuit breaker on a separate circuit.
