The original board would do nothing, just a few lights would come on when pushing the buttons, looked it over , could find no obvious problem, fuse good, then replaced board. The unit ran good through one cycle (we think it finished the cycle) …next night the unit did the same as 1st, just a couple button lights worked.
I need help on how to troubleshoot this unit without just replacing boards as it seems something ruined the board. I checked the heater element, heater stat, thermistor, fuse good, but I stopped there.
Has anyone had these symptoms before or can give tips on troubleshooting steps before replacing the board again? …nothing obvious bad on the board either…maybe there is a magic button sequence that’ll just reset the baord???
I THINK!!! your problem is the TOUCH PAD, NOT the board. Remove the Ribbon connector to the board and GENTLY clean it. Make SURE when re-installing it that you “wiggle” it into place for a good connection.
I checked that just now, the ribbon is in good. For the last hour I have been checking everything with an ohm analog meter. So far I can find nothing reading out of range from the prints. Something very unusual, the unit has been on the back porch for a week, I rigged up temp elect and filled it with a hose…and it started…after the power is turned off for a while the unit will seem to work…but only for 1 cycle it seems…I put the old board in and it started running…but messing with it I ended up stopping it and it wouldn’t start again. I’m timing it now to see roughly how long the power must be off before it runs again. Sounds like something overheating…but I can’t find anything right now. I need to rig up temp water so it can fill on it’s on and run through entire cycles. Next time I can run it, if it starts again I plan to see if it’ll go in the diagnostic cycle…have you ever seen one like this before?
It’s grounded at the junction box correctly… I’m going to get a temp water supply hooked up and make a list of what definitly works when first reapplying the power…
I know these work: water pump, the drain motor, the water solinoid, over fill valve switch, checked the heater element, heater stat.
I have not checked the dispenser actuator though. Is there some type of overload, other than the fuse, on the control board that may require the power reboot of approx. 30 mins? It’s this running through one cycle and then quiting that’s killing me…I also have to verify that it is actually completeing the cycle…again I need the water supply so it can run uninterrupted.
Is the unit stainless or plastic, you will notice that the power in is different for them. Looks like the plastic units kill power to the control board whenever the door is opened. The stainless units keep the board powered up so if it hangs due to an error the only way to reset is to unplug it.
I would disconnect the keypad and check it with a meter.
This is a matrix type of keypad and may do all sorts of weird things if one of the directing diodes on the board goes.
Could also be you have a stuck key and it’s LED is not working.
Probably easiest to pull the keypad and do this at a table as there are a lot of keys and each should be checked with the meter using both polarities.
This a stainless steel unit. Can you post some detailed trouble shooting procedures for the keypad and also how to remove it? I think I’ll need a pin assignment details on which pins go to which buttons too? I did notice that even after the unit seems to reset itself after powering down after 30 mins.+, that the heated cycle button will only flash 2-3 times and go out…while others always work and a couple others don’t I think. I think you may on to something with this keypad …I also have to get the fittings to hook the water supply up.
It’ll be this weekend before I can get to this, as I get home late everyday, but I will get back to you with the results; but I will get back to you with the results…
[COLOR=Blue]Can you post some detailed trouble shooting procedures for the keypad[/COLOR]
Do not know how much you know about electronics so: you will see that the keyboard has a number of diodes (little arrows). They conduct current in only one direction, into the arrow. If you put the negative lead (-) of your meter on the into arrow side and the positive lead (+) on the out of arrow side the diode will conduct (low resistance). If you now swap the leads they will not conduct (high resistance). Note: on some meters the negative lead is not actually the negative side of the battery but you will know lead polarity is correct after checking a couple diodes. Also the meter scale makes a difference, a 2Kohm scale should be OK, try other scales if you do not see a difference.
Example: With - lead on P1-3 and and + lead on P1-11 when SW3 (Soak&Scour) button is pushed you should see a lower resistance (forward biased).
Reverse the leads and pushing SW3 should make no difference (reversed biased).
I would tape the ribbon cable down to the table, it is a royal pain if it keeps moving about. Depending on your meter leads you may have to tape a couple pins or small finishing nails to the leads so you can get at the ribbon cables track connections/tacks. You must check all switches and diodes in both forward biased and reversed bias. Probably best to make yourself a little chart so it does not get confusing. It is tedious but is the only way to properly check a keyboard.
This looks like a not bad site for basic electronics info. Meters
[COLOR=Blue]and also how to remove it? [/COLOR]
Will be self evident once you remove the inner door panel.
[COLOR=Blue]
I think I’ll need a pin assignment details on which pins go to which buttons too?[/COLOR]
See the second link of my earlier post, it has the pin assignments, first page right hand corner. Often Pin/Track 1 is a different color on the ribbon cable. If not it is usually marked by the connector on the board and you can mark it with a felt pen.
Try running the diagnostics first. It could save you a lot of time.
See second page of the second link of my earlier post.
I was looking over the diagnostics section and saw this:
“[FONT=Swiss721BT-Bold][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Bold][SIZE=1]
[LEFT]STUCK KEY: [/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1]If the control detects that a key is stuck in the depressed position,
dishwasher operation will be suspended and the control will flash the
light for that key until the condition is corrected. If a key without a light is
stuck or multiple keys are stuck, the control will flash the light for the Rinse Only/Quick Rinse key.”
I did notice that when pressing the High-Temp Scrub, it will flash 3 times and then go out…does this mean anything? [/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
OK, first I tried the diagnostic rapid advanced feature, I can get it to go into this option, after starting the cycle, pressed high-temp scrub, then energy saver, two times in that sequence, then pressed Start to advance and it will advance through the cycles. This does not seem to show a problem. But after advancing through the cycles, I had to power it down for 30 mins., then I did run it on through a complete cycle and it does complete the cycle (including heating the water), then I open it, clean light goes out, close it and try to start another cycle and it will not, must unplug it, wait 30 mins or so, and then it’ll do one cycle over again and repeat.
I got the keypad off, figured out what you were talking about with the polarity, found the pin schedule on my print and checked every button with meter on x1K, they all peg out the ohm meter when pressing the buttons and all release when I let go…it appears all the buttons work and are not stuck. All the led lights worked during the cycle I ran too.
So from your earlier reply, it appears there is an error during the cycle and that’s why I must power down the board after every cycle. We have had some problems with the soap dispenser not opening sometimes, everything else seems to be working, the pump, solenoid, heating element, drain pump…I checked all the items on the dishwasher circuits on the prints, and everything ohmed out almost exactly as the print says, even the dispenser…but sometimes that dispenser door will not open, but during these test cycles the dispenser is opening.
What’s next to check? I hate to buy another board, have two now and both do the same thing.
[COLOR=Blue]What’s next to check? I hate to buy another board, have two now and both do the same thing.[/COLOR]
I am stumped as everything checks OK but for some reason the board is not resetting. It is like it is not running the timer to the end of the cycle, may be waiting for a signal/voltage from some thing and is not receiving it.
I agree that getting another board will just cost you dollars and I doubt it would fix the problem.
Could it be that the door switch is not opening?
When it does wash, it does a good job and runs normally correct?
If yes, I would be very temped to do a jiggery pokery and wire it up the same as a plastic tub unit. That way when the door is opened it should rest the control board by removing power to it totally.
OK, I went back and performed the cheks all again, formed a chart to keep things straight like you suggested. I believe I found a problem with the ID02 (I believe this is a diode ?). With the pos. lead on P1-1 and checking P1-12, the meter pegs out. When checking all of the diodes, this is the only instance in which the ohm meter moves. I checked all these diodes and push buttons with switching the pos. and neg. leads and I kept a chart. All the push buttons work correctly per the schematic. Also all the ID00 through ID03 get nothing, excet that ID02. It pegs the meter with red lead on P1-1 and it gets zero when switching the leads.
So is this my problem, a bad ID02 diode in the keypad?
If so, to replace I assume I order the part, p/n 8269132 Black, whcih is the black plactic piece the keypad is glued to? I hope I don’t hace to glue the new keypad on…I don’t know how good that’ll look and stay on? Please reply with your opinion quickly, I hope this is the problem?
[COLOR=Blue] Also all the ID00 through ID03 get nothing, excet that ID02. It pegs the meter with red lead on P1-1 and it gets zero when switching the leads.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=Blue]So is this my problem, a bad ID02 diode in the keypad?[/COLOR]
Seems like your positive lead is not actually the positive meter’s voltage but it really does not matter.ID02 seems OK. Should conduct in one direction and not the other. But the other diodes are not correct.
[COLOR=Blue]
If so, to replace I assume I order the part, p/n 8269132 Black, whcih is the black plactic piece the keypad is glued to? I hope I don’t hace to glue the new keypad on…I don’t know how good that’ll look and stay on?[/COLOR]
Sorry could not find this part number.
I believe the part you want is AP3133651 from the AppliancePartsPro link I included earlier.
[quote=denman;98083][COLOR=blue] Also all the ID00 through ID03 get nothing, excet that ID02. It pegs the meter with red lead on P1-1 and it gets zero when switching the leads.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=blue]So is this my problem, a bad ID02 diode in the keypad?[/COLOR]
Seems like your positive lead is not actually the positive meter’s voltage but it really does not matter.ID02 seems OK. Should conduct in one direction and not the other. But the other diodes are not correct.
[COLOR=blue]If so, to replace I assume I order the part, p/n 8269132 Black, whcih is the black plactic piece the keypad is glued to? I hope I don’t hace to glue the new keypad on…I don’t know how good that’ll look and stay on?[/COLOR]
Sorry could not find this part number.
I believe the part you want is AP3133651 from the AppliancePartsPro link I included earlier.[/quote]
Great, finally I hope we have it diagnosed!! I’ll order the part and post the results later…Thanks in advance Denman, you’ve been a great help with this problem…I think you are right on with the keypad issue…I’ll let you know how it turns out…TTYL
How do you repair a stuck key? The “rinse only” key is flashing over and over and I think the “normal” key is the one that is stuck, because it is the only one we ever use.
[quote=kirkdj;83811]I was looking over the diagnostics section and saw this:
"[FONT=Swiss721BT-Bold][SIZE=1]
[SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Bold]STUCK KEY:
[/FONT][/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT][LEFT][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1]If the control detects that a key is stuck in the depressed position,[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman][SIZE=1]
[LEFT][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman]dishwasher operation will be suspended and the control will flash the[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman]light for that key until the condition is corrected. If a key without a light is[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman]stuck or multiple keys are stuck, the control will flash the light for the Rinse Only/Quick Rinse key."[/FONT][/SIZE][/LEFT]
[LEFT][SIZE=1][FONT=Swiss721BT-Roman]I did notice that when pressing the High-Temp Scrub, it will flash 3 times and then go out…does this mean anything? [/FONT][/SIZE][/LEFT]
[/SIZE][/FONT][/quote]
How do you repair a stuck key?
[/LEFT]
I know in the schematic instructions it references troubleshooting for a stuck key…I found mine behind the bottom panel after I took it off, it’s taped in behind there if you’ve never removed it before…other than that, you’ll have to wait for Denman to reply…good luck
[/LEFT]