My washer makes a grinding noise when on the spin cycle and does not spin. It will agitate and drains OK.
Hi Guy,
Try to move the inner basket manually wile the washer is on spin. You have to push the lid switch down with a small pin or screwdriver to have the lid switch circuit closed.
Post your findings.
Here are the break down diagrams for the Kitchen Aid washer Model KAWS850LQ0
Gene.
[QUOTE=Gene;23198]Hi Guy,
Try to move the inner basket manually wile the washer is on spin. You have to push the lid switch down with a small pin or screwdriver to have the lid switch circuit closed.
Post your findings.
Here are the break down diagrams for the Kitchen Aid washer Model KAWS850LQ0
Gene.[/QUOTE]
I have the same issue on my KitchenAid Washer. I moved the basket manually and I continue to get the same clicking sound but it does move.
- Lucas
Lucas,
If the inner tub is moving side to side or up and down (inside the outer tub) then it could be a broken drive block (#12 on the break down diagram). It also could be worn tabs on the spin tube (#6 on the break down diagram).
Gene.
Thanks, Gene. You helped me repair my gas dryer as well 
Anyway, can you explain what you mean by "if the inner tub is moving . . . "? Does that mean when it’s in spin cycle? (The tub doesn’t move at all in spin cycle). It does move in agitate but is louder than normal it seems. This would seem to rule out the drive motor coupler, right?
Do you know where I could find instructions on how to replace the drive block or spin tube?
Thanks again!
Lucas
Remove the outer cover and pump. Turn the motor shaft clockwise. If the spin basket refuses to turn, you have a bad clutch, coupler, or a broken actuator that sits on the bottom of the spin tube. If very hard to turn, you may have something stuck in the tub, or dragging brake shoes. Post results.
Okay - I learned quite a bit tonight . . . I now know how to fully dismantle a Kitchen Aid Washer What I found:
- The coupler WAS broken but I wasn’t sure if this was a result rather than cause (originally washer would agitate but not spin . . . after 2 more loads it wouldn’t agitate OR spin). One of the teeth was completely broken off around the shaft.
- The gears looked okay (I dismantled the gearbox to see if teeth were missing - none were).
- Re-assembled it and determined that tub would spin when I turned motor shaft clockwise.
My deduction (see if this makes sense):
- Motor coupler is the cause. The 2 remaining teeth on the gearbox side had enough “press-fit” around the shaft to agitate because there isn’t much torque needed. The washer wouldn’t SPIN though because a full tub of water and clothes has a lot of inertia so the “clicking / grinding” noise I heard was actually the shaft spinning INSIDE the plastic coupler (rather than my fear that teeth were skipping in the gearbox).
Does that make any sense? Could it be as simple as a motor coupler???
Whe you replace the coupler, turn the tranny coupler clockwise till the spin basket starts to turn. If hard to turn with one hand, you have other problems.
The basket does spin when I turn it clockwise (I had to use a pliars to get a hold of the tranny shaft . . . but it was fairly easy to spin the whole basket. Does it make sense that a busted coupler “could” still allow the machine to agitate but NOT spin?
You might have an intermittant lid switch, just check.
Put the new coupler on the tranny shaft and try to turn it with your thumb and forefinger clockwise. If hard to turn after the tranny engages the spin basket, you have other problems.
Replaced the coupler and both the agitate AND spin cycle work!!! Thank you both - again!
I have the same problem and the same model machine. what is the procedure to take apart this machinand are their any special tools required?
Hi, the washing machine fills and drains but won’t agitate and makes a noise. I think it may be the clutch. How do I replace it?