Brand: Kitchen-Aid
Model Number: KDTM354DSS4
Main Symptom: UI not responding
What happens & when: No LED lighting or function from UI. Did test as directed by Youtube video to test board. Proved bad control board (ie. no motor start up when disconnecting the UI, opened door, connecting power to board, closing door). Ordered and replaced control board (W10854216). Worked for 5 min, then same thing - dead UI. I’ve tested to ensure power to control board, tested power and possible ground on pump. It seems unlikely that new control board is bad, but I suppose is possible. Additionally, I see no visible sign of wire wear, kinking or anything that would indicate some wire break. Also tested by isolating each component that plugs into control board (looking for a short) seeing if that showed anything - nothing indicating short in any of the components that plug into board. How may I test the board to see if it is good? Do I try another board?
Error Code (if any): none
Parts or tests already tried: W10854216 control board
Photos / video link:
Yes, I tried that before and after replacing the control board. No motor run, indicating bad board. Is there another check to determine if board is bad? Could there be something causing board to short?
Test the drain pump resistance value, should be about 15-60Ω. If the pump is bad you won’t get it to run and it is possible the pump has backfed and fried the new control board.
If that’s good, look for the connector at the control board that has all yellow wires, disconnect it and see if the dishwasher works with that disconnected. That’s your turbidity sensor WPW10705575, which can fail in such a way as to cause a low voltage DC drag on the control board, albeit rarely.
If that’s good then you may have another low voltage DC component that has failed and is dragging on the system, but that is even more unlikely than that sensor.
Here’s the tech sheet:
tech-sheet-W10750907-RevB (1).pdf (915.9 KB)
https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-sensor-wpw10705575-ap6023867.html
Drain pump resistance checked out, turbidity sensor too. Separately, I spoke with a repairman and he indicated that Whirlpool (KitchenAid) had recommended to him before that sometimes changing the board is not enough - need to change UI and control board. Have you heard of this? He seemed to think it wasn’t wiring since the dishwasher started up momentarily when new board was installed.
Also, I do appreciate how timely you’ve been with your responses. Very kind and helpful.
The UI is usually the cause of this, but usually these follow that test procedure fairly well in letting you know what the culprit is.
