The ‘Rinse Only’ and ‘Add a Dish’ lights are blinking and other option bottons on the control panel are not function. The washer can not drain. I unplugged the power cord for a couple days and plugged it back. The washer was able to drain. Then the ‘Rinse Only’ and Add a Dish’ lights are blinking again. The washer can not operate again. Can anybody help?
Could be your rinse only key is stuck closed or could be the control board.
I cannot find a tech sheet for this unit as you are missing at least 3 digits from the end of your model number.
[quote=denman;147369]Could be your rinse only key is stuck closed or could be the control board.
I cannot find a tech sheet for this unit as you are missing at least 3 digits from the end of your model number.[/quote]
Thank you for your respond. The model number is KUDS01DJSS0.
Here is your tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208269519.pdf
Try to run the diagnostics.
Try the following connection cleaning
If that does nothing check the keypad for a stuck key with a meter.
Might be an idea to do this when you have it open for the connection cleaning.
Connection Cleaning
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.
ETIHOME
I have exact same model and getting rinse light blinking. No response from unit whatsoever. Were you able to resolve your symptom and if so, what was the resolution?
Thanks in advance.
[quote=denman;148195]Here is your tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208269519.pdf
Try to run the diagnostics.
Try the following connection cleaning
If that does nothing check the keypad for a stuck key with a meter.
Might be an idea to do this when you have it open for the connection cleaning.
Connection Cleaning
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.[/quote]
I know this posting is old, but I now have the same problem described here. “Rinse only”, “Add a dish”, and two dashes blinking. I have tested continuity of the switch panel (ribbon cable), but oddly cannot find a single connection regardless of whether a button is pressed or not. I have reversed the leads suspecting that going through the diodes would make the difference, but no luck. I find it nearly impossible that none of the switches are working. Clearly none appear to be in the closed condition either. I suspect the drawing posted in the Tech Sheet is either inaccurate or for a different model.
I would really prefer to not blindly start replacing parts given that none are cheap. I can’t believe neither Whirlpool or KitchenAid appear to publish a list of descriptions for failure lights.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
My model: KitchenAid KUDS01IJBS0
Here is the tech sheet for your unit
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208269519.pdf
On checking the keyboard did you short the meter leads together before starting to make sure it was working.
Also try a higher ohms setting. The meter must put out enough voltage/current to forward bias the diode.
Diodes are forward biased when the negative lead is on the point side or the arrow.
[quote=denman;262721]Here is the tech sheet for your unit
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208269519.pdf
On checking the keyboard did you short the meter leads together before starting to make sure it was working.
Also try a higher ohms setting. The meter must put out enough voltage/current to forward bias the diode.
Diodes are forward biased when the negative lead is on the point side or the arrow.[/quote]
Awesome! Having the correct drawing is very helpful.
So it appears that everything is correct (once measured correctly) EXCEPT on the drawing you provided it shows 3-11 as Soak/Scour. I measure about 2meg at 3-11 and I do not have this particular switch. So I would expect a complete open and not 2meg.
What is your opinion?
Michael
I have never measured this so cannot really give a good answer but since the other keys that use those lines check out I would say it is OK.
Since you have done some trouble shooting you could order a control board from AppliancePartsPros and if it does not fix your problem they will let you return it, see their return policy.
[quote=denman;263369]I have never measured this so cannot really give a good answer but since the other keys that use those lines check out I would say it is OK.
Since you have done some trouble shooting you could order a control board from AppliancePartsPros and if it does not fix your problem they will let you return it, see their return policy.[/quote]
I just ordered the control board. I will reply back here with the results.
Thank you for your help!
[quote=denman;263369]I have never measured this so cannot really give a good answer but since the other keys that use those lines check out I would say it is OK.
Since you have done some trouble shooting you could order a control board from AppliancePartsPros and if it does not fix your problem they will let you return it, see their return policy.[/quote]
Well, it isn’t looking good.
The new control board arrived today. It had a slightly different layout, but overall, appeared to be electronically the same. According to various postings (including Sears), the original board has been substituted, so I assumed I was OK to install it.
So, I installed this new $100 board and the result is basically the same - no response to key presses. HOWEVER, now the only LED blinking is the NORMAL light.
Deleted duplicate entry
[quote=denman;263369]I have never measured this so cannot really give a good answer but since the other keys that use those lines check out I would say it is OK.
Since you have done some trouble shooting you could order a control board from AppliancePartsPros and if it does not fix your problem they will let you return it, see their return policy.[/quote]
Ok - so a replacement board was sent and received and the results were the same. Here is what I have so far:
Original board: Blinking “Rinse” and “Add a dish”. Will not run.
New board 1: Blinking “Normal”. Will not run.
New board 2: Blinking “Normal”. Will not run.
Reinstalled original board: Blinking “Rinse” and “Add a dish”. Will not run.
So, what does this tell me… well my first guess is that the board is not the problem. I suspect that Whirlpool changed the code in the control board which causes the lights to blink when there is a failure. I suspect that the blinking of the original board = the same as the Normal light blinking in the new board.
Sure would be nice if someone had information about the software in this board.
So, that leaves me with this… what do the blinking lightes mean and what could possibly be keeping this machine from runnning???
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated…
All I can think of is that it is the keypad.
Yes, it would be nice to know exactly what they are doing on the board but I have never seen this info.
It is always a bit of a crap shoot as to what is causing blinking lights so even checking the keypad is not 100% unless you can find a shorted or open key. Checking it just improves your odds of getting the correct part.
For everyone’s benefit…
I was able to get the dishwasher working and completely understand the cause.
First, my suspicion was correct in that the new control boards have updated software/firmware as compared to earlier releases. The result is that (in my case) a different set of lights will blink when in this failing state.
Second, the keypad is a combination of switches and diodes. The diodes appears to be used as both a protection mechanism from reverse or spike currents, as well as to bias the circuit. When any switch/button is pressed and contacts are correctly closed, a valid measurement (forward through the diode) should result in approx 4meg ohms. Of course unpressed would result in a complete open.
There are a few diodes in the keypad which are not switched and they too should measure approx 4meg (forward) and are not altered by any of the buttons.
In my case, the measurement between 3-11 resulted in approx 2meg. In the Tech Sheet, it suggests that 3-11 is for the “Soak & Scour” button. However, on my model I do not have this button/option, so I would expect this connection (3-11) to have been an OPEN and not 2meg.
Given that I already received and paid for a $100 control board unnecessarily, I did not want to now order a $200-$300 keypad without confirming the root cause.
In order to prove this theory, I cut the lead on the IC which traces back from P1-3 to the IC. Basically, I sacrificed my “Delay” and “Cookware” buttons, and the “Soak & Scour” part of the circuit which my machine shouldn’t use anyway. It also disabled a segment on the LED display, but for testing purposes, this doesn’t matter.
The result… my dishwasher works correctly even with the original control board. This proves that the keypad is bad. At this point I can obviously choose to accept the sacrificed buttons and LED segment or replace the keypad.
I have inserted a picture of what I did (hopefully it is visible). I cut the circuit at the red line.
I hope this information is helpful to someone.
I have been at the lake for a few days and just got back.
Glad to hear that you are up and running.
Your post will definitely help others.
Thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.