SEDS800JQ0 electric dryer is not drying. i took it apart and cleaned every think i could, made sure wires are tight and not burnt. element has continuity… i check everything i could find values on…its all testing good…put it together…it had heat! next morning wife happy to do some drying…no heat? i did turn the heat on in the utility room to work on it, if this matters… i have a very nice DMM as well thanks for any input…josh
got both sides of the 220 hot(at the dryer) more testing as i get it done…(5 kids) tryin to hurry lol
k this is kinda funky the thermal fuse works some times and not others…need to be replaced, but wife fessed up…the uses the towel setting and it keeps running, and you have to open the door to stop it, so that must be a timer? ill fix it too if it keeps killin fuses…she told me that when we got it 7 years ago new it didnt work then??? little late ha ha.
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL SEDS800JQ0 | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is the wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203406692.pdf
[COLOR=Blue]i did turn the heat on in the utility room to work on it, if this matters[/COLOR]
Unless you turned it up to above 150 degrees this will make no difference
[COLOR=Blue]this is kinda funky the thermal fuse works some times and not others[/COLOR]
Once a fuse is blown it stays blown
[COLOR=Blue]need to be replaced, but wife fessed up…the uses the towel setting and it keeps running, and you have to open the door to stop it, so that must be a timer? [/COLOR]
Not necessarily
I assume this is an Auto setting and the timer is not advanceing
Try timed dry, now does it advance?
The timer gets it’s power from different circuit paths for timed and auto.
Timed is Neutral to L1 (120 volts)
Auto is L1 to L2 when the heater is off, with the 5000 ohm resistor dropping it to 120 volts fgor the timer motor
Does it have no heat at all or just very low heat.
I would recheck the heating element.
Remove both wires from it. Check for resistance between the connectors, should be around 10 ohms. Then check from each connector to ground, should be infinite. You may have a grounded element.
well i replaced the fuse(buddy had 1)…worked…then next day…it didn’t work again:( ill test the element again like you said…thanks ill let you know what it reads
I assume this is an Auto setting and the timer is not advanceing
Try timed dry, now does it advance?
[COLOR=blue]time dry advances[/COLOR]
The timer gets it’s power from different circuit paths for timed and auto.
Timed is Neutral to L1 (120 volts)
Auto is L1 to L2 when the heater is off, with the 5000 ohm resistor dropping it to 120 volts fgor the timer motor
Does it have no heat at all or just very low heat. [COLOR=blue]no heat[/COLOR]
I would recheck the heating element.
[COLOR=blue]will do[/COLOR]
ok 8.5 ohms from post to post
connector to ground, should be infinite…and it was…i can do car audio all day…alarms, ect…but this dryer is not making any sense to me
You may have 2 separate problems or somethging new has occurred.
Check the thermal fuse again
Could be blown again
Most common cause of blowing the fuse is low air flow.
A dirty vent system, an outside vent that in not opening fully, a dirty blower wheel or a blower wheel that has come loose from the motor.
Can also be bad drum seals and a dirty lint filter.
Now for the general operation of the timer motor.
Timed dry circuit path
NEUTRAL , DOOR SWITCH , TIMER SWITCH 0 OR/TM , TIMER MOTOR , timer contacts BU/BK , L1
Auto dry circuit path.
L2 , centrifugal switch 2M/1M , HEATER , RESISTOR , TIMER SWITCH 0 WB/TM , TIMER MOTOR , timer contacts BU/BK , L1
When a thermostat shuts the heater off, you get the L2 voltage on the left hand side of the heater (no amperage drop across it). This voltage is then dropped to 120 volts by the resistor. Basically the timer only advances when the heater is turned off.
Check the thermal fuse (note that the unit does have 2) and the thermostats and the timer switch 2 contacts, all should be 0 ohms.
If all OK all that is left is:
No 220 volts which you have checked and it is OK
Blown heater which you have checked and it is OK
The centrifugal switch on the motor is all that is left. Difficult to check as the motor must be running for it to close.
A loose or broken wire somewhere.
TIMER ADVANCE
You never had Auto dry timer advance but had heat so the centrifugal switch had to be OK. Heater measures OK. Timer advances in timed dry so it’s motor is OK. Likely culprits would be the 5,000 ohm resistor or the TIMER SWITCH contact WB/OR
Hope the above is helpful.
[quote=denman;73342]You may have 2 separate problems or somethging new has occurred.
Check the thermal fuse again
Could be blown again
[COLOR=navy]its good[/COLOR]
Most common cause of blowing the fuse is low air flow.
A dirty vent system, an outside vent that in not opening fully, a dirty blower wheel or a blower wheel that has come loose from the motor.
Can also be bad drum seals and a dirty lint filter.
[COLOR=navy]took it all apart and cleaned everythink that i could w/o taking the drum off[/COLOR]
Now for the general operation of the timer motor.
Timed dry circuit path
NEUTRAL , DOOR SWITCH , TIMER SWITCH 0 OR/TM , TIMER MOTOR , timer contacts BU/BK , L1
Auto dry circuit path.
L2 , centrifugal switch 2M/1M , HEATER , RESISTOR , TIMER SWITCH 0 WB/TM , TIMER MOTOR , timer contacts BU/BK , L1
When a thermostat shuts the heater off, you get the L2 voltage on the left hand side of the heater (no amperage drop across it). This voltage is then dropped to 120 volts by the resistor. Basically the timer only advances when the heater is turned off.
[COLOR=navy]i need to get it working then ill worry about the timer[/COLOR]
Check the thermal fuse (note that the unit does have 2) and the
[COLOR=navy]i can see one in the path from blower to tail pipe[/COLOR]
thermostats and the timer switch 2 contacts, all should be 0 ohms.
[COLOR=navy]still working on this check point[/COLOR]
If all OK all that is left is:
No 220 volts which you have checked and it is OK
Blown heater which you have checked and it is OK
The centrifugal switch on the motor is all that is left. Difficult to check as the motor must be running for it to close.
A loose or broken wire somewhere.
TIMER ADVANCE
You never had Auto dry timer advance but had heat so the centrifugal switch had to be OK. Heater measures OK. Timer advances in timed dry so it’s motor is OK. Likely culprits would be the 5,000 ohm resistor or the TIMER SWITCH contact WB/OR
Hope the above is helpful.[/quote]
so ill keep going…the other fuse is???
k i took the drum off to look for the “other thermal fuse” i could not find it…so i shop vaced tha bad boy…but the funny thing is i took of the timer switch, and it made a clicking noise when i tilted it back n forth. so i took it off and started the dryer, after rocking it…BAMM heat…is it the switch of i just get lucky and all the moons lined up? still has heat after i put it back in place but my guess is in a few loads it will be back to no heat
The timer is a possibility.
Cannot say for sure if it is without meter tests when you have the problem but it is now at the top of the list.
It is one part which is common to both no heat and no timer advance problems
Also it should not make any noise when you just move it.
FYI
The second thermal fuse is Item 9 is Section 3.
Note it comes with a new high limit thermostat when ordered.
But since you have heat again, it should be OK.
Ok. Tell me what to test on the timer and how to do it, and I will test like no man has ever tested before
You have to wait till it breaks again.
Then unplug it and check the timers contacts/switches.
For no heat - TIMER SWITCH 2
For no timer advance - TIMER SWITCH 0 TM to WB
Both the above should be 0 ohms
If OK then the other components is the circuits path as shown earlier.
[quote=denman;73862]You have to wait till it breaks again.
Then unplug it and check the timers contacts/switches.
For no heat - TIMER SWITCH 2
For no timer advance - TIMER SWITCH 0 TM to WB
Both the above should be 0 ohms
If OK then the other components is the circuits path as shown earlier.[/quote]
[COLOR=blue]then for no heat -TIMER SWITCH 2 and put other lead to timer body?[/COLOR]
well again in the morning no heat…
TM to WB 7.34kohms
not sure i under stand the "For no heat - TIMER SWITCH 2
" part hope this is what you were saying…the timmer is ticking(when pluged it)…i test this right?
[COLOR=Blue]well again in the morning no heat…
TM to WB 7.34kohms[/COLOR]
Sorry do not understand this.
If in an Auto cycle it should read 0 ohms as you are basically reading across a set of closed contacts.
[COLOR=Blue]not sure i under stand the "For no heat - TIMER SWITCH 2
" part hope this is what you were saying…the timmer is ticking(when pluged it)…i test this right?[/COLOR]
Unplug the unit.
And measure across the contacts, should be 0 ohms.
Ok on auto dry…unpluged the unit and it read 0 from TM to WB … I did test the W,T,TM too ( don’t know if needed but all 0)
[COLOR=Blue]Ok on auto dry…unpluged the unit and it read 0 from TM to WB[/COLOR]
This looks OK
[COLOR=Blue]I did test the W,T,TM too ( don’t know if needed but all 0)[/COLOR]
Could not relate this back to the wiring diagram.
Sounds like the dryer is playing with you.
Unplug the unit.
Try to move the components as little as possible.
I would place one lead on the heater red wire right hand side (re: wiring diagram). I think it should have a single red wire. Leave the meter lead here for the following tests. Use a low meter scale re 200 ohms.
Then measure to the left side, should be approximately 10 ohms.
If OK
Then to the left side of the HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT, should be ~10 ohms
If OK
Then to the left side or the OPERATING THERMOSTAT, should be ~10 ohms
If OK
Then to the left side of the THERMAL CUTOFF NOT RESETTABLE, should be ~10 ohms
If OK
Then to the left side of the TIME SWITCH 2 (Black L1 on the timer), should be ~10 ohms.
You have now checked almost the entire heater circuit path.
If all OK, all the is left is the centrifugal switch.
Though my gut says heater coil. What can happen is a break in the coil. It opens when it heats up and then closes again when the coil cools down. But this is just a gut feeling.
Hopefully you will find the bad component with the above checks.
If not get back and we will have to check the centrifugal switch.
This must be done with power to the unit (motor running) so is a tad dangerous.
That is why I have not included it here.
All passed 9.8-9.9. I have the dryer away from the wall back off so nothing gets mover (any more) kinda was thinking that moving it might change stuff…testing it running is fine…one question the THERMAL CUTOFF is the one up top on the housing for the coil right? I feel like I’m speaking a new language lol
ne question the THERMAL CUTOFF is the one up top on the housing for the coil right?
Yes.
The white one on the blower is for the motor.
Lets try this
With unit still unplugged
Put your meter on L1 and L2 of the power cord
Should be an open circuit (infinite ohms)
Now turn the drum in the correct direction fairly quickly if you can.
This may take two people or you may have to tape your motor leads to the power cord.
Does it go to ~10 ohms?
What I am trying to do is simulate the motor running so the centrifugal switch closes.