I’m guessing the age 5-10 yrs as it was given to me, but this machine agitates fine, fills up and drains fine, but the spin cycle is dead for some reason. It’s also intermittent because early today i had replaced the coupling and nothing would come on, but I waited about an hour pulled on the timer control and viola, and it filled and ran fine, but still no spin. This leads me to believe there is either a short or a lose wire, but this thing makes accessing the control panel a real puzzle because there are only two screws in the rear, but no others so opening the panel seems impossible without field stripping this monster down out in my backyard in the dirt. (Yes, I know..bad idea, but space it not available indoors)
I can’t seem to find a tech sheet anywhere or diagrams so now I’m a bit stuck. Any ideas. suggestions, comments or plain old genius solutions?
Thanks. 
OK, I did get the panel open (It prys forward and covers the two diagonal screws holding the panel down) and see a single board in there about 2X3 inches, a bunch of wire and several switches.. I’m hoping a lose wire, but my luck doesn’t seem to hold true there so is there a way to check out the board without replacing it from the get go? Is my solution to replace part by part because if that’s the case I’ll likely just strip the thing down and scrap the metal and strip all the wire out too. I REALLY don’t want to do that.. So now I’m at a stand still and not quite sure where to go from here.. Any suggestions?
I do not understand how you were able to replace the coupling without removing the cabinet?
You need to test the lid switch and to do this you need to remove the console. Your machine is made by Whirlpool, and it is very easy to take apart, right in your laundry. There are slide shows and videos on this on the web, just seach.
First unplug the machine. Basically, the two end caps snap off (lift at back and push forward, being careful not to break them. This should expose two screws on either side of the control consol. Take out these screws and the control console lifts up and swings back (let it hang, do not take it off). You will then see a white plastic connector. Take it apart and jumper the outside two prongs on the wire from the console with a solid insulated wire. Make sure the wire does not fall out. Turn the timer to a spin section, plug in the machine, pull the timer out and see if you get spin.
If you do, the lid switch is defective, and you will need to remove the cabinet by unclipping the two brass clips at either side (unplug again first!!!). The cabinet will then pull towards you and come off. Get a new lid switch, replace the cabinet (this will be tricky but it will set down in the rails if you have patience) and put the machine back together.
This and the motor coupling are the two main fail points on this machine. If this works you will have saved about $150.00 on a service call and have a machine that should last another 5-10 years!
If jumping the lid switch does not work, please post along with any other info you can think of.
Good luck
The motor coupling is a piece of cake. Just tip the machine on its back, remove the two retainer clip screws, pop of the clips..oops..pump first..then remove motor and replace the coupler and reverse order..to put motor back on.. that part I’ve done many times before. (I’m a dumpster diver by trade 
Now the jumper part I was unaware of so I will try that after I dig up a few clips.
The lid switch will cause the spin cycle to fail? I’ll be darned.. I’ve fixed dozens of these things mainly the coupling and the cam dogs, but never the lid switch. 
What’s odd is the water drains fine with the lid shut, but not the spin..when I open the lid the drain stops.. is that normal?
I did figure the control panel thing out.. the caps covered the screws.. I was working from the rear of the machine so it wasn’t so obvious as when I turned around.. duh..amazing what a three foot stroll around to the front will accomplish.
Now, about the white connector.. Is this the large one connected to the agitate/spin control switch? OR is it the one from the timer control? I’m assuming the agitate/spin controller..but just want to clarify.
Thanks so much for the reply!
[quote=sidfink43;77967]I do not understand how you were able to replace the coupling without removing the cabinet?
You need to test the lid switch and to do this you need to remove the console. Your machine is made by Whirlpool, and it is very easy to take apart, right in your laundry. There are slide shows and videos on this on the web, just seach.
First unplug the machine. Basically, the two end caps snap off (lift at back and push forward, being careful not to break them. This should expose two screws on either side of the control consol. Take out these screws and the control console lifts up and swings back (let it hang, do not take it off). You will then see a white plastic connector. Take it apart and jumper the outside two prongs on the wire from the console with a solid insulated wire. Make sure the wire does not fall out. Turn the timer to a spin section, plug in the machine, pull the timer out and see if you get spin.
If you do, the lid switch is defective, and you will need to remove the cabinet by unclipping the two brass clips at either side (unplug again first!!!). The cabinet will then pull towards you and come off. Get a new lid switch, replace the cabinet (this will be tricky but it will set down in the rails if you have patience) and put the machine back together.
This and the motor coupling are the two main fail points on this machine. If this works you will have saved about $150.00 on a service call and have a machine that should last another 5-10 years!
If jumping the lid switch does not work, please post along with any other info you can think of.
Good luck[/quote]
Ok, you are now the second person I have met who replaces motor coupling from the bottom. I think you will find it a lot better to take off the cabinet, if for no other reason then the machine really does not not like to be on its back, and you can also inspect the operations of the machine for leaks, problems, etc. and clean it out with the cabinet off.
The lid switch is a safety swtich. It is designed to stop the spinning when the lid is lifted so that the user does not get an arm stuck in there with the machine spinning. However, we now have new information, (don’t worry about it, this happens almost always) in that it seems you are saying that the machine drains even though it is not spinning, so the lid switch is probably not be the problem. Test it anyway, because it is easy to do now that you have the console off and you need to rule it out before going on.
Anyway, there is only one plastic connector sitting on top of the cabinet when you pull back the console, and the plastic connector coming into it is the one you jumper (just for second to see if the spin works, no longer!!). It is just a two wire connector (the middle wire is the ground so that is why you do not jumper it). If you work on these machines a lot, you probably have some you cannot fix, and if you do harvest the lid switch from them next time, as the Kenmore/Whirlpool lid switches are largely interchangeable.
Good luck, and if this does not fix it you are looking at clutch and brake (and then you will have to set the machine on its back) There are good discussions of both of these on this site for that type of machine. The clutch repair is relatively easy and relatively inexpensive, and more likely the problem, so start with it. The brake repair not, so read about it on this site and then decide if you want to do it.
Good luck, and please post your results.
I’m happy I waited for your reply. I might have exploded the backyard and burned Texas to the ground. Not the world would miss it.. I was about to connect the wrong things!
Tipping it back for the coupling is straight forward and easy I think, but you’re right about leaks plus it could be easy to short other things out with water flowing everywhere. I guess if time is of the essence then ya do what saves time.
Anyway..will get back either tonight or Monday or so. Tomorrow is 100% chance of rain and it’s clouding up already out there. Time to get the tarps out soon..
Thanks again!
Well..it looks like Monday at the soonest is when I will get to dig into the clutch. Oh joy joy! I wish I could tell you how much this just thrills me to no end, but it doesn’t particularly thrill me to no end to much.
So I guess the next question is where might I find that nice tidbit of information I can spend my Sunday studying cover to cover? I have nothing better to do tomorrow except have it imprinted into my brain for a full day. LOL
So far the only discussion I can find is about the brake replacement and mention about the clutch. Is that where I’m looking for in the stick? The part I noticed right off was the bit, “Also, at this time, test the clutch sitting on top of the tranny. Hold the clutch housing and try to turn the inner pad assembly, if really hard to turn, it’s ok. If not, either get a new clutch (AP3094537 or FRP # 285785), or fix the old one. If not badly worn, you can add small washers into the spring retainer, just make sure the spring is still retained.”
If I’m reading this right I can basically shim the clutch up with small washers. Is this correct? This doesn’t sound to horrible. I’ve replaced axles in trucks, transmissions, engines, etc. So I’m guessing a washing machine clutch will be a cake walk in comparison, but I have been known to get in WAYYY over my head before too
Anyway..is this the discussion I’m looking for?
Thanks again.
That’s one appropriate (?) discussion. Look at any discussion which talks about removing the tranny, and also the exploded parts diagram on this and other part sites. A Washer clutch is nothing compared to an auto clutch, actually nothing compared to anything. The only hard work is getting it out.
I have seen that post I am not a big fan of any “shin” method and don’t recommend it. You might try it to see if that will temporarily fix your machine, which will confirm the clutch diagnosis and if it does, I would strongly recommend the new clutch kit (get it from the nice folks who sponsor this site). I am old school, do it once and do it right.
After you exhaust this site, you can look on other sites like this for clutch discussions, there are some which are very complete and very good, but since you already know how to disconnect the motor from the transmission and work on the machine with it on its back, you are all set. The tranny should come out with three bolts.
Just make sure nothing is jammed when you put it back. If it is, the motor will overheat, and all sorts of bad things will happen.
Thanks sid.. I’m not big on temporary fixes either, but this is a backyard machine being there is no room indoors for it so it has to be covered whenever it rains and the like. If it just becomes discombobulated completely later on and turns into one giant rust pile there is always Action Metals where I also sell scrap metal plus I can get plenty of parts from scrap yards if need be. By the way, they’re great sources for parts if they will let you pick through things. The nice thing about scrap yards is you don’t have to be neat and clean or put anything back together. Just chunk it in the pile and grab what you need. I have a whole pile of refrigerators fans, cords, wiring..etc. At one time I had a small refrigerator junk yard, but that had to go..It was becoming a rat haven. LOL
Hey sid, I don’t know if you’re reading, but is there an easy way to pull this tranny out? I have the bolts out and it slid a few inches back or down, but now won’t budge. Is there a retainer pin or clip I’m not seeing anywhere? I see one on the diagram from sears, #3 on page Full Diagram | SearsPartsDirect.com
but no clue how to get to that sucker.. What am I missing here? Do I need to go through the top and loosen the tub? My first instinct is to get a slide hammer on the job, but would rather caution on the side of error or however that goes.
Thanks.. I’ll keep plugging away and hopefully solve this, but so far no good. ;/
AH HA! Got the sucker out and now looking at the clutch lining it looks like white plastic, polyethylene maybe.. There is no such thing as what could qualify as what I would think of as a clutch lining, but I don’t know how it’s supposed to look anyway. So far I have found nothing that could qualify as a spec sheet to tell me how much should be worn off or not.. So…how do i tell? Any ideas?
Thanks.
Wow, sorry you are having so much trouble. You say this was given to you, was it from a friend or enemy?
Here is a site which will show you some color pictures of what it ithe clutch is supposed to look like. It may be that wear is not your problem, and that the spring connections are.
Clutch Replacement on Whirlpool and Kenmore Washers
If you do not think this is the problem the next step is to remove the brake tube, but now you are starting to run into costly parts if the problem is in the brake tube. However, before you do that I would test to make certain the motor is running when it is in spin mode. The motor turns counterclockwise in agitate mode and clockwise in spin mode.
Thanks for the info on parts. My background here is that I do volunteer work for a Habitat for Humanity Home store. We accept donations of major appliances (and other stuff, no clothes which we leave to goodwill). I with others test, clean and repair washers, dryers, ranges, diswashers etc. We take in about 1500 major appliances a year and sell about 1200 to 1300 year. The money supports building houses for really deserving people. Our only source of spare parts (other than $5-10 pieces) is what we salvage from machines we cannot fix, so we have built up a fair amount of usable parts, particularly for the whirlpool/kenmore line. We do not install used moving parts (clutch, transmission) so we have to part out those machines.
Because whirlpool/kenmore parts are so interchangeable we can even do things like change out a cabinet. Sometimes we get a machine that is in very good working condition, but is beat to hell, rusty from bleach spills etc. We save good cabinets, and just swap it out and voila, a good looking machine and another $150+ for the cause.
Anyway, I really hope you get this thing working, but if not at least you are not out any money and hopefully will have learned how to do it easier in the future.
Let us know how things are going.
I’m pretty sure the problem is the clutch now. I inserted a small nut behind the spring and it tightened it up considerably. I don’t know how long that might last, but it will at the very least let me know if it was the problem at all if i get a decent spin out of this beast. I found the part, but delivery time is about 2 weeks at best and I live in a big town, Dallas. Go figure, huh?
A lot of scrap yards will allow people to scrounge around, but you need to be careful and you usually do so at your own risk. It would be a good idea to make deals with a yard where you can dispose of junked parts to bring in some extra income as well and when you get to know the guys working there some will save certain parts for you, especially the smaller yards, but they are in a business like everyone else.
One yard here saved a few old machines for me for a while, but after we got what we needed they quit. Let them know why you need them and give them good press and they might be much more helpful.
I’ve sold many refrigerators basically the same way you do except it’s my income source. I sell them as low as $50 each and some aren’t worth that! But when a young couple is in desperate need they need anything to keep food cold sometimes. I give them away on occasion too even though it really cuts into my living. I had a steady supply, but the city grabs them up mostly now so I get the leftovers usually.
Now I’m just trying to find the diagram to figure where all the basket parts go back in right. I took it apart to get the tranny out and there’s one or two I forget the order. YIKES! I hate that. LOL
Got it and now I have a part that resembles a 2 or3 inch brass nail with a hole drilled in one end and I have NO clue where it might have dropped out of. I have spin working now, but agitate doesn’t do a thing.. loose wire perhaps? That nail looking thing? Looks like a pin from something, but I didn’t remove it..It just appeared! YIKES! Any ideas?
Well, if it spins you can certainly continue to use it that way until if (or when) it fails. If you plan to sell or give the machine away I would certainly put in a new clutch kit.
Any basic appliance parts store should have the clutch kit. You can order one from this site and it will certainly get to you in less than two weeks.
As far as not agitating, first check to see that the motor is running counterclockwise in agitate mode. You may not have gotten the connections on good. If the motor runs, I suspect you did not get the agitator dogs back in correctly in the agitator. It is not a “wire” issue unless the wire in question is to the motor. Don’t know about your extra part, see if it goes with the agitator.
While our Habitat store does not give away appliances, we do sell them very reasonably so people who cannot afford a new one can get a quality used one. I am sure the feeling you get when you give one away or sell it at a reduced price more than offsets any monetary loss.
Let us know when you have this beast up and running!
I’m fairly sure it’s the wiring, but I also lost one of the rubber shims that goes under the motor so things set kind of cockeyed a bit..might have gotten in a bind. But why would the pump still run? Gotta be wiring somewhere..
On the good side I got two calls this morning to pick up a set of washing machines from others so whatever parts I need might just be included or they might just run even better.
On the bad side the flu slammed me last night and drastically weakened me so…oh well..so they’ll be 80 lbs heavier than they would have been. LOL
At the very least I have gotten a good lesson in repairing these monsters and do appreciate that more than i can express in words here.
Thanks Sid!
By the way, yes, helping people in need does have rewards well beyond any money i might or might not have. I only wish i could afford to give more away.
Sid, Sid, Sid…what are the odds that I would get a call to come pick up another machine, the exact same type that needs ONLY the cam dogs replaced? Pretty slim I bet, but that’s just what happened this morning so now I have a fully working machine and a full compliment of spare parts!
The ONLY difference in the old machine and the new one is the model number and the color is slightly brighter on the newer model. Aside from that and the back panel on the old one is black and the new one is unpainted..exactly the same thing!
Things seldom work out this good for me, but I have to say..I’ll take it!
And once again, thanks for the lessons. Now I know how to replace a clutch and have a spare handy to boot along with everything else including the exact same control panel. Short of a brand spanking new machine falling off a truck and landing on my truck it just don’t get much better.
Wow, Great to hear that.
You know, if it something you want to do you can make a decent living rebuilding as necessary and selling top loading Kenmore/Whirlpool washers. Many of the internal parts have been the same for decades.
Glad it worked out well for you, you deserve it after that amazing display of perserverance!
Thanks.. I do sell them whenever I get my hands on them. Washing machines used to be very common on cubs, but no longer. Cities have caught on and decided to muscle in on it. They have the advertising budgets too.. real shame too. 
Oh well..
I still will persevere despite the damned city. They’ll probably pass a law soon to prohibit picking up metal at curbside or in dumpsters. They can muscle in on any way people have to earn a living and are doing it now..