My Kenmore (110.46462501, yr 2006) front load washer stopped running mid cycle 2 nites ago. The door would not unlock, even after pulling the plug and plugging back in. The manual showed me where the pull tab was to open the door. I unloaded everything and tried to run the diagnostics (bypassing the service history mode). After pressing the 2nd Rinse Option button 4x, the door would lock (the light would go on and can hear the click) and the light for Rinse Spin would blink but nothing would happen. Pressing the 2nd Rinse Option button to advance to the next step of the test would also not do anything. Have to unplug the unit to get the door back open again. A service tech came and said it was the pump motor. He installed it and it still would not work. I had him put my old one back in and asked him to leave. Figured I had a great experience w/ you guys last time (I replaced the CCU, MCU and Bellow in March 2011 w/ your help), that I’d again ask for your expertise.
Is there a way to test the door latch to see if that is the issue?
Why did you choose this kind of the diagnostic test? Service history mode and diagnostic test is much more informative and helpful. Run this test as described in the attached tech sheet (page 7). Follow the instructions very careful and post the results.
I had run the service history one first, but it wouldn’t run the diagnostic, so did it bypassing the service history to see if it would run. When i first had the problem I only had the F24 code (2 x) and the F22 code (1x). Just ran the service history again, and now I get F28 first, followed by F4 2x and then F22. When it goes into diagnostic, the door locked light turns on, followed by an audible click and the Drain & Spin light blinking. Nothing else happens.
Will be checking for loose wires now. Not sure how to check for worn or failed parts. When I had problems w/ this washer 18 mo ago, it was able to run through the diagnostics. Now it doesn’t get past the door lock click.
I do have a small tear in the front lip of the bellow that leaks water out of the front of the machine. Don’t think it has anything to do w/ my issue, but bringing it up just to make sure.
Did not find any loose connections. Unplugged and replugged main connections to CMU. Also unplugged and replugged connections to door latch. Still same error codes.
Gene, thanks for the help. I tested the door latch. For DL3, I got 125 ohms for pins 1 and 3 and 61 ohms for pins 2 and 3. For DS2, I got 1.2 ohms door closed and infinite @ door open.
Since my resistance for pins 1 and 3 were 2x higher than what it should be, does that indicate door switch should be replaced? Thinking of replacing this first, and hoping I don’t need to replace the CMU again.
Ordered the door latch and CCU. Replaced both today and still does not work. When I try to run a load, the door locked light turns on and the add a garment light turns on. Nothing else happens.
I re-ran the diagnostics. It does not show any fault codes. It goes to the Drain and Spin cycle (lights up), but nothing happens besides the click for the door latch.
I also measured the resistance on the new door latch, and I get the same 60 / 125 ohms that I got w/ the old door latch.
Any advice? It will be 2 weeks since it broke this coming Monday. I need to get her fixed before my wife kills me…
This is very strange. Such different readings for the door lock/unlock solenoids not suppose to be as well as no error codes. I would recommend to request the parts exchange due to the parts warranty.
Just bought a new door latch. Checked resistance for solenoids on the door latch prior to installing it. 126.8 on pins 1 and 3 and 67.3 on pins 2 and 3. That’s 3 door latches w the same resistance. Do I have the right door latch, 10253483? Maybe door latch not issue. New CCU was installed,but prob not resolved. Could it be something else? MCU?
What is the sequence of operations when starting a cycle. All I get is the click for doorlock and nothing else. Should water start flowing, pumps running, etc?
At least it should start to fill up with water. And if it does not do anything then it should be some error codes. Double check all wires and connections. Verify 120 VAC to the washer. If the voltage is not within 10% range then it can cause it.
Power verified to be 124v. Confirmed connections to CCU and door latch. Have not confirmed connections to MCU, as its not as easily accessible. Think I need to check down there?
Strange that resistance on the 3 door latches is higher than what manual calls for?
Is it possible I received the wrong CCU and that’s why it’s not working? The new CCU has an extra white plastic part sticking out the side of the base that the CCU mounts to. I could not mount the base on my washer, so I left the old base and just mounted the new CCU to it (it fits perfectly). Now that new CCU is not working, wondering if there are different CCU’s depending on s/n of unit. The p/n I have is W10273502.
This part has been redesigned by Whirlpool. The original part number was W10205973 and it has been changed for W10273502.
I hate to say it but it is possible that the new part is defective. If you purchased it from APP, then you can call them and request the part exchange.
[QUOTE=df_3;771778]Just bought a new door latch. Checked resistance for solenoids on the door latch prior to installing it. 126.8 on pins 1 and 3 and 67.3 on pins 2 and 3. [/QUOTE]
Pin 2 in the common connection to both coils. The resistance between pins 1 & 2 and pins 2 & 3 should both be around 60 ohms. If you measure between pins 1 & 3 you are reading through both coils, which is why you will get around 120 ohms.
New to this forum. Lot of good information here. What was the final fix for dennis’s washer? My Kenmore 110.47532602 Has developed the same problems. Replaced the door switch, before joining the forum, and no luck. Will not go into diagnostic mode. Reading here that changing the CCU did not work. Rather not spend the money on a CCU if it is not the problem. Any other suggestions so I can get this unit back into operation? Appreciate the help.