Kenmore
795.7205
Not cooling well
refrigerator 40-50f, freezer 8-18f
no error code.
had repair guy come out, was low on coolant. then took back off inside refrig section and the evap coils were iced on the left side (big thick clear chunk). said that is where it is leaking and need new evap assembly ($250), plus sealed system “utilities” (I presume Freon) $185, and labor $$$ - a discount.
I went ahead and said do it but then I remember in the past, frozen coils in things we would just defrost them and keep going. So I looked up online about frozen evap coils and one cause can be low Freon.
So now I wonder if I’m getting taken to the bank and it was just low Freon? What do experts think?
This is a great question and one we hear fairly often. When there’s a thick ice buildup or ice ball on the evaporator—especially where the small and large copper lines connect—it typically indicates a refrigerant leak. In many cases, those leaks occur within the evaporator itself.
A technician should properly repair the leak before recharging the system, and unfortunately, sealed system repairs tend to be expensive due to labor, equipment, and part costs.
It looks like the model number you provided is a partial. On the left side of the following link, you’ll see several matching full model numbers. Identifying the complete model number would help clarify which evaporator and other components are used, and give a better idea of the parts cost involved:
I defrosted the system, but when trying to get it going again, after 3 hours it only got down to 68f (starting from about 78f) .. I unplugged it to not damage the compressor/condenser.
From what I can see, this sealed system includes more than one evaporator. The downside to that setup is if there’s a refrigerant leak, it could be anywhere in the system—including either evaporator. Having two evaporators (one for each section) adds more potential failure points.
If one of the evaporators is the source of the leak, you’ll likely need to replace the failed evaporator, the 3-way valve assembly, and the filter dryer at a minimum.
They repaired it today, seems to work, but smells like Freon, when he cut the tube it went everywhere inside the refrigerator, I turned on exhaust fan, but now inside the refrigerator still stinks (I wiped down everything, except behind the panel where the evaporator was). How long does it take to go away? He said it would go away in a few days. Should I turn it off and open the doors or just wait a few days?
I would leave it running so that it can be verified that the unit is operating properly. If you place a box of baking soda in there with the corner ripped open, it will help get rid of the smell.
Generally, the best rule of thumb is to give a sealed system repair 24 hours to cool down a refrigerator and regulate. If it is unable to properly reach temperature after that time, further diagnosing would be needed.
It never went below 48F, typically sat around 50F then would jump up to 58F, back down to 50F (freezer same type of thing. 24F, typically around 26F, but then up to 29F). Back and forth, I presume when it was defrosting.
So, he came back out, thinks maybe restricted, the readings were -4 vs before “fix” at -9. So he said he would add more Freon and check, if doesn’t fix, not worth fixing. He left saying it was at 11. So for the first time, it’s made it down to the 35F / 0F.
Based on that, do you think this is a fix, or is it a hack and overfilled to get it down and in a week it will still have an issue or damage the compressor? He didn’t use a scale this time, just filled and watched the levels on the thing with hoses they attach.
Overfilling with refrigerant typically won’t help the unit cool properly—in fact, it can lead to other issues. From what you described, it sounds more like the system may have been slightly undercharged and just needed a small adjustment.
Charging by pressure using gauges, rather than strictly by weight with a scale, is a valid method—especially when diagnosing performance in the field. A properly functioning sealed system will operate within specific pressure ranges, so using gauges can be an effective way to fine-tune the charge.
Unfortunately, I wouldn’t be able to say for sure if “11” is a good reading without more context. When charging or diagnosing by gauge, both low-side and high-side pressures need to be considered—along with the temperature of the compressor and the sound or tone it’s making during operation. These factors all work together to indicate whether the sealed system is running properly.