Kenmore HE2 was in the middle of a load and went completely blank on the front panel, won’t turn on, nothing happens when I unplug for 30 seconds or more and plug it back in other than a ‘CLICK’ which seems to come from the front panel area. What part should I replace to fix this issue? I have seen all sorts of suggestions while searching the web ranging from CCU to MCU, to control panel… I’m confused, how do I diagnose this issue, can someone help me? Thanks.
Although I tend to agree you might need to replace the CCU why not start from simple and work toward that end.
First (it may sound stupid) but are you getting true full 110/120 v to your machine? I know you said it clicks when you plug it back in but sillier things have happened.
Second Open the top and look to see if there are any obvious signs of a shorted wire coming from the electric connection to the control board. Look for burn marks signs of arcing etc.
Third (unplug power for this) unplug all connections to and from the control board. Try even to clean them as you do using a connector cleaner.
Do the same for the wires to and from the user interface.
If non of these actions correct the situation, then I’m afraid its time for a new CCU.
Whirlpool WPW10525355 Cntrl-Elec - AppliancePartsPros.com
electric cleaner.jpeg (20.6 KB)
I haven’t actually taken the CCU housing apart to look for arcing or burn marks nor have I tested the outlet to make sure it is true 110v, I’d have to grab a voltmeter to make sure. I did however do a basic visual inspection of the wiring and connections with the lid taken off and unplugged and re-seated all the connectors. Although the original button tabs that hold the CCU housing to the side of the washer broke off and it kind of hangs about it has no obvious signs of damage due to hanging there. I could try the electronic cleaner but I also have 99% rubbing alcohol and nylon brushes. I use that to sometimes fix motherboards and component boards in computers and laptops when there’s water damage.
I’ve read that the click is a sign that the control panel is not the problem, can you confirm that this is so?
I used an extension cable to test other outlets and it still doesn’t work, also if I unplug and re-plug pretty quickly I get one click. If I wait about 30 seconds I get two clicks, does that mean anything?
Thanks in advance.
You may also try to unplug it for 5 to 10 minutes to clear any stored memory and plug it back in. If that’s not it, then yes try your rubbing alcohol on both the wire terminals and the connectors on the CCU, as well as on the UI.
One other possibility is that the noise filter may be bad.
Whirlpool WPW10367632 Noise Filter - AppliancePartsPros.com
Noise filter WPW10367632 filters the electrical power supply to prevent control board damage from power surges. This may be bad and the source of the clicking sound.
Any way to test it? And thanks for all the help.
Look at the top of the filter and it will list the ohms resistance and the microfarad ratings. You can use an advanced multi-meter to check. Or simply purchase a new one Whirlpool WPW10367632 Noise Filter - AppliancePartsPros.com
and try it. Everything you’ve said leans toward it being bad though.
Testing the two bottom leads “N and L” gives between 1.36 and 1.42 μF (it fluctuates), same with the two center posts and combinations of inner/outer opposing posts.
ohms reading for two bottom leads “N and L” gives 468.4 kΩ and it climbs to 469.0 kΩ and stops. Opposing inner/outer leads the same. Same side inner/outer leads gives 0.2Ω
These are the readings I get, I have no idea how to make heads or tails of them, can you help? Thanks.
Ok the 468 to 469 ohms are good however the microfarads are way out of proportion. If I am reading it correctly it should be .002 μf or +2x1000pf so replace the filter and all should be good.
Sorry I did not get back to you sooner but I was chasing Pokemon with the family this evening. Almost got a Snorlax. Wife got her fav peekatchu. LOL
Ok, thanks for the reply. No worries on how long it took, I’m a patient man. My Son and I both have Snorlax, his is over 1k CP but mine is only about 600 CP or thereabouts. I guess I’ll go ahead and order that part, wish me luck. lol.
Apparently cheap and easy was too much to ask for lol, back to the drawing board. Tested the noise filter and same result, Piezoelectric speaker on the user interface board makes t-click sounds and then no result from pressing power/start/stop etc, no lights. Pulled both the UI board and the CCU board, did a full visual inspection and no burnt traces, no popped caps, no blackened or arced components. A little bit of white dust inside due to the CCU mount clips falling apart and apparently bouncing around in the machine or rubbing against the drum. Going to test continuity of the fuses and clean the connectors and board with rubbing alcohol. Any other tips on testing the board components of either the UI or the CCU?
Oh and how long do I have to return the Noise Filter if it turns out that it doesn’t need replacing? Thanks in advance.
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Ok, thanks brobriffin. The scripted reply helps on the returns question. I take it you are deliberating my other questions? 
No other data or references on end user or tech level testing of components on MCU, CCU or UI found. Sorry ¿Planned obsolescence?
All references point to replacement rather than repair. I understand the why, as a service tech receiving so much per hour it’s more cost effective to replace rather than seek out a bad diode or resistor, or determine if a solder joint needs to be reflowed.
Sorry but unless you are well versed in computer board circuits and pathways I would try a replacement CCU. A google search may result in a lower price re-manufactured unit.