Gas oven will not reach temperature. Seems like it must be the ignitor. Might also be the thermostat because it will beep like temp was reached but clearly the goal was never met.
I have the multi-meter but not sure exactly where to place the probes within the interior of the oven to test these two components.
Do I turn it on and check these or do I do it with power off?
Any help appreciated. TIA
Is there an article that shows the thermostat and ignitor parts and where to test them? I see the Ohmmeter sticky but no real specifics on this. I must be missing it since everyone else seems to know where to check. Any links or advice?
Please? TIA
Hi.
Does the gas light up? If not, does the ignitors glow?
If the burner lights up you need to check the oven sensor
At 70F the resistance should be around 1080 ohms. Replace if big difference.
If both ignitors doesn’t glow and control board bipping as if the preheat is done - you most likely need to replace the control board
Unplug the unit while testing.
Simon.
The ignitor I think was not glowing bright enough. But I have nothing to compare it to so I need to see a proper ignitor glowing first.
It would take forever to come on with gas smell and then not ever heat up to temperature. Although the readout would beep as if it had gotten to 375 or 400 F. The food was not cooked so I know it had to be below 300 F for sure.
So maybe both are bad. could it be that a replaced ignitor will cause it to read temps properly again?
I don’t know where to place the probes etc. to test these components
I didn’t see anything about it on the “replace ignitor” video. Is it in the Ohmmeter thread?
[QUOTE=Simon / APP Team;806619]
AP3969435
At 70F the resistance should be around 1080 ohms. Replace if big difference.
[/QUOTE]
Do I test this in the oven? Do I pull it out and test it?
Same with the ignitor. I have never seen this done
HI.
You need an amp meter to check the ignitor. The normal amps draw is around 3.25 - 3.5 amps.The ignitor should glow bright red almost white.
You probably should try to replace the bake ignitor
Simon.
[QUOTE=Simon / APP Team;806630]HI.
You need an amp meter to check the ignitor. The normal amps draw is around 3.25 - 3.5 amps.The ignitor should glow bright red almost white.
You probably should try to replace the bake ignitor
Simon.[/QUOTE]
Is an amp meter different than the digital multimeter? And how do I do that? With the oven plugged in and turned on? And then I touch the probes to it in action? Sorry but I really have no clue.
Should I search youtube for a video? What might it be called?
It does sound like the ignitor. Do you think the reaching temperature problem is maybe a distraction?
I have the multimeter so it seems like I should follow through on checking the part. But I did think about just switching the ignitor out and see if that cures it.
The clamp on amp meter is different from the regular multimeter.
I suggest you to replace the bake ignitor.
Simon.
[QUOTE=Simon / APP Team;806646]The clamp on amp meter is different from the regular multimeter.
I suggest you to replace the bake ignitor.
Simon.[/QUOTE]
OK, sounds like a plan. Thanks, Simon
BTW do I use the multimeter to test the temp probe (if there is some kind of problem in the end) or is that the amp meter too? Or will I just replace it if there are still problems?
To check the sensor’s resistance you will use the multimeter.
Let’s go step by step.
Please post the results.
Simon.
Hmmm…things are a little complicated on this end.
The ignitor I got looks the same inside but there is no cage like housing around it. Do I reuse the one inside the oven? It doesn’t look like it. The video shows the new one with its own housing.
I will check and make sure this is the right part.
Taking off the old ignitor I ran into a problem though. I stripped the edges of the rear screw. The edges are a little worn down and the piece (I don’t know what you call these that are not phillips or flat ended) can get no grip and leverage.
Do I have to cut the screw or might there be a trick to loosen these troublesome little screws?
The part looks so similar but there is no little cage surrounding it. Is it the correct part??
Well customer service says it just comes without the bracket now. Does that sound right? I guess it won’t matter underneath all that metal.
But I am not sure what to do about this stripped hex bolt holding the old ignitor on.
Hi.
You’ll have to cut the screw off. When installing the new ignitor be very careful not to touch the exposed carbon part. It’s very fragile.
Good luck.
Simon.
[QUOTE=Simon / APP Team;807975]Hi.
You’ll have to cut the screw off. When installing the new ignitor be very careful not to touch the exposed carbon part. It’s very fragile.
Good luck.
Simon.[/QUOTE]
OK thanks, Simon 
Alright I got the screw out and the old ignitor. Except for the electrical connection.
I do not see any panel on the back to take off and get access to the connectors (like shown in the video. I also cannot see anything on the inside of the oven to take off and get to the plug. Looks like the next thing to come off would be connected to the tubing the ignitor is mounted to but that cannot be right. It seems to just disappear into the back oven wall.
Any idea where that connection is accessed on this oven.
Hi.
You should be able to pull the ignitor’s wires through the opening in the rear panel far enough to get to the plug. If not, then remove the cover from the rear of the oven and get to the plug from the back.
Simon.
[QUOTE=Simon / APP Team;808602]Hi.
You should be able to pull the ignitor’s wires through the opening in the rear panel far enough to get to the plug. If not, then remove the cover from the rear of the oven and get to the plug from the back.
Simon.[/QUOTE]
Hi, Simon.
I have been looking real close and I swear I can’t figure out where to unhook it. I don’t see anything on the back other than the entire back cover of the range. No small piece or panel I can see is removable.
I follow the wires back from the ignitor but they just go into the oven floor and there is no slack. I pulled the exposed wire in all the directions that seemed possible but I got no give.
I looked in from the front - behind the bottom pullout drawer and there is a connector visible that looks to be of the right type - but I cannot see how I would thread down the replacement ignitor’s connector. It is along the back wall but I cannot see a way to get inside from the back side of the unit.
Is there a detailed diagram available anywhere for this unit?
It seems like it must be a panel on the back but for the life of me I can’t see anything removable back there. 
Remove the drawer and it looks like the plug is in the left corner. You should be able to put the plug through the opening at the back of the burner, if not then remove the burner and reinstall it afterwords.
Simon.
[QUOTE=Simon / APP Team;808707]Remove the drawer and it looks like the plug is in the left corner. You should be able to put the the plug through the opening at the back of the burner, if not then remove the burner and reinstall it afterwords.
Simon.[/QUOTE]
Thanks again for you help, Simon.
I do see that plug in the back left corner. But I am not sure what you mean by the “burner”. Is that the back of the entire unit? Or is it the tube that the ignitor is attached to? There is a hex bolt holding on that tube that the ignitor is fastened to but it looked like something I should not mess with.
There is a slanted floor around the bottom below that tube. I removed the hex nuts in front but that wasn’t enough to get that floor out.
Is it just a straight shot and the connector will thread down from inside the oven to connect at that plug in the left hand back corner?
Sorry for all the newbie questions - it is just hard for me to picture what is going on here and I don’t want to break something. The video shows lots of slack on the connectors and that would make much more design sense than what I am seeing on this Kenmore.
Is “at the back of the burner” where the tube goes into the back floor of the oven?