Hello,
This is a side by side Kenmore refrigerator with digital controls made in 2002.
My freezer is at 4 degrees and the refrigerator is at 60 degrees. A week ago, I took the freezer compartment apart to look at the coils. They were not iced up. The fan in the freezer works and the defrost heater checked OK.
I put everything back together and checked the compressor. The fan blowing on the compressor works. The coils are clean. I thought that maybe the compressor wasn’t working all the time so I replaced the starter relay and capacitor. It took a few days to get the parts. The refrigerator was unplugged during the wait. After the parts were installed, everything worked fine. The freezer was at 4 degrees and the refrigerator was at 37 degrees.
Now, a few days later, the refrigerator is not working again. Could this be the damper or thermostat? How can I check these? What else could it be?
Thanks,
Ed M.
Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/265542-kenmore-freezer-works-refrigerator-doesnt.html#ixzz1S7a5iiot
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com
Hello edm_msu. You will need to check and see if the damper assembly is opening. If not, test the thermistor and see if it is reading correctly. Here is a chart to test the thermistor.
Thermistor
[LEFT][LEFT]Thermistor Resistance Chart
Temperature Resistance
(Fahrenheit) (Approximate Ohms)
-5… 26705
0… 22774
5… 19476
10… 16701
15… 14360
20… 12379
25… 10698
30… 9269
35… 8050
40… 7008
45… 6115
50… 5348
55… 4688
60… 4118
65… 3625
70… 3197
75… 2826
80… 2503
85… 2221
90… 1975
[/LEFT]
If it is outside of these ranges, you will need to replace the thermistor. If the thermistor is testing good, you will need to test and see if power is coming to the damper motor. If there is power coming to the damper motor, but it does not open, you will need to replace the damper assembly. If there is no power coming to the damper motor, and the thermistor is good, you will need to replace the microcomputer. Hope this helps.[/LEFT]
AP6006067
AP6006658
AP3177964
Jeff,
I understand your answer except the part about checking for power to the damper motor. What is the voltage supposed to be? What color wires should I check? The voltage should be present when the door is open, correct?
Also, is the damper either completely open or closed, or can it be partially open?
Does it make sense to you that it worked after the refrigerator was off for a few days, then stopped working after it was on for a few days?
Thanks for your reply,
Ed M.
Hello edm_msu. You will need to check and see if the damper is fully closed. If so, with it running for a few days after being unplugged, it sounds like the microcomputer is the problem. However, we need to eliminate the damper and thermistor first. Here are the instruction from the manufacture on the test procedures.
[LEFT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][FONT=Arial][SIZE=4]Baffle Operation[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]The baffle assembly consists of a 120vac motor, a baffle door and a feedback switch. The switch[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]provides a sensing circuit to the control to let it know the position of the baffle door. When the refrigerator thermistor[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][/LEFT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]senses a temperature above the customer setting, the motor runs to open the baffle door.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]Refrigerator thermistor calling for cooling - Baffle opening:[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[LEFT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]When the baffle door is fully open, the switch closes sending 120vac out pin 4 (Y/R wire) on the baffle door[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]assembly to pin P1-1 on the control. When the control senses 120vac at P1-1, the motor stops with the door fully[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][/LEFT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]open. You will test across the Y/R wire and the OR/BK wire for 120vac.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[LEFT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]When the refrigerator thermistor reaches the cutout temperature, the control energizes the baffle motor to close[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]the door.[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][/LEFT]
[B][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]Refrigerator thermistor satisfied - Baffle closing:[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
[LEFT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]When the baffle is fully closed, the switch opens interrupting power to P1-1. This signals the control to stop the baffle[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][/LEFT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]motor with the door fully closed. You will test across the BK wire and the OR/BK for 120vac.[/FONT][/SIZE]
[LEFT][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial][SIZE=4][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]Thermistor Resistance Chart[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]Temperature Resistance[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]
[SIZE=3]FONT=Arial (Approximate Ohms)[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]-5… 26705[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]0… 22774[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]5… 19476[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]10… 16701[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]15… 14360[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]20… 12379[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]25… 10698[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]30… 9269[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]35… 8050[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]40… 7008[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]45… 6115[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]50… 5348[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]55… 4688[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]60… 4118[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]65… 3625[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]70… 3197[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]75… 2826[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]80… 2503[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]85… 2221[/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]90… 1975[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/LEFT]
[FONT=Arial][FONT=Arial]Hope this helps.[/FONT][/FONT]
[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/B][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE]
Jeff,
I just got home and attempted to troubleshoot.
After getting the damper out, this is what I found:
Damper was open
Thermositor at 3187 ohms (65F)
Y/R wire (for opening) at 86V, and at the same time:
OR/BK wire (for closing) at 110V
I did not see a feedback switch as expected. 7 wires to damper:
Y/R wire (for opening)
OR/BK wire (for closing)
Black common wire for above two wires
OR wire to refrigerator thermistor
Blue-White wire to refrigerator thermistor
OR wire to freezer thermistor
Tan-White wire to freezer thermistor
If it doesn’t have a feedback switch, then how is this supposed to work?
What do you think is wrong?
Thanks,
Ed M.
Check and see if the air tunnel going from the freezer to the refrigerator is iced over and not allowing air to come into the refrigerator compartment. If so, this can prevent the cold air from coming to the refrigerator. I am attaching a file on the damper assembly freezing over. Hope this helps.
searsrt46-282-10-10-04.PDF (591.2 KB)
Jeff,
It turns out that the compressor needed to be replaced. It continously ran, but did not cool enough. This would have cost $500 to $600 to fix. I bought a new refrigerator.
Thanks,
Ed M.