HELP!!! I HAVE A KENMORE ELITE HIGH DOLLAR WASHER,WITH A PROBLEM .DURING THE SPIN CYCLE THERE IS A LOUD THUMPPING NOISE,LIKE THE MACHINE IS OUT-OF-BALANCE,I AM MECHANICALLY INCLINED,SO I REMOVED THE REAR COVER TO EXPOSE ALL THE MOVING MECHANISMS.@ BELT-SHOCKS-ETC,I OPERATED THE MACHINE WITH THE COVER REMOVED TO INSPECT WHERE THE NOISE WAS COMMING FROM,IT SOUNDS LIKE A BAD BEARING,INSIDE THE TUB OR IN FRONT,BUT CANNOT SEE ANYTHING VISUALLY.I TALKED WITH A SEARS TECH WHEN HE BROUGHT HIS CAR TO MY DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIRS TO PICK HIS BRAIN ON THE MATTER,AND HE TOLD ME THAT THE FRONT TUB IS POSSIBLY OUT-OF-POSITION AND MUST BE REALIGNED.HE TOLD ME TO OPEN THE DOOR AND PUSH UP REALLY HARD TO RESET THE FRONT BEARINGS,BECAUSE THEY RIDE IN A GROVE AND IT MUST HAVE JUMPED OUT AT ONE POINT DUE TO A UNBALANCED LOAD,I TRYED THAT TRICK TO NO AVAIL.ALL THE SHOCKS LOOK GOOD AND THE WASHER IS PROPERLY LEVELED.I AM NOT SURE IF THERE IS A COMMON ISSUE WITH THIS OVER-PRICED WASHER OR IF SOMETHING IN THE TUB AND BASKET IS THE PROBLEM.I HAVE (5) GIRLS AND BELIEVE ME THAT THE WASHER IS RUNNING AT ALMOST 24-7 SPEED.SO PLEASE ANY ADVISE ON THIS ISSUE TO RESOLVE THIS CONCERN BEFORE IT GRENADES ITS SELFWOULD BE HIGHLY APPREICIATED-THANKS-T/O.:eek: AHHHHH
I don’t want to be the bearer of bad news, on 2fronts!!! 1st of all, There is NO SUCH front support!!!(The tub is supported ONLY by the axle at the rear of the drum!!! Now for the BAD NEWS, It is QUITE possible that the rear bearing (or the wash basket) have failed!!! This has been an ongoing problem with ALL F/Load washers. :mad:
How Can I Determine If It Is The Bearing Assembly Or The Wash Basket.must I Completely Disassemble The Tub-from-the Basket?.it Looks Like It Has (2) Halfs With The Basket In The Center,with The Rear Bearing Assembly Connected To The Belt And Motor Of The Tub That Spins.???
If you spin the basket by hand, Does the brg feel rough? If you open the door, grab the basket at 12oclock and 6oclock, when you push with 1 hand pull with the other(without spinning the tub) can you hear a scraping noise? What happens MOST of the time is the 3legged spider on the back of the drum gets corroded and breaks 1 of its legs. Do you have REALLY hard water in your area? Have you ALWAYS used He soap in this washer?
The Washer Moves Freely Without Any Drag Or Rough Bearing Feelwhen U Manually Turn The Basket It Feels Ok.can U Visual See If Any Legs Are A Problem From The Rear Of Washer Or Is It From Inside.we Did Not Use He Soap All The Time Due To Cost-factors Of He-soap.the Water Is Some What Hard,but Not Rock Hard.this Washer Is Totally Bumming Me Out.!!! I Payed A Fortune For It,because It Was The Best Of The Best At The Time.completely Disappointed With The Longivity Of This Priceee Machine.my Old Whirlpool Washer Lasted 12 Years Before Th Tub-rotted Out.o-well I Will Stop Belly Acking.any Way Back To This Issue.if I Can See If A Leg Is Broken Then That Would Mean I Would Have To Replace The Rear-tub Assembly At A Heffy Price Of About 375.00,it Loks Like The Rear Bearing And Tube Are One Piece Section.??? my bad,heres the lastestup date after i went home and asked the commander and chief,about the soap,and she told me,she always uses he-soap and that i dont know diddy-squat,because i dont do laundry.oh well.here is what i found.i opened the front door,grabbed the basket lip at6 & 12 oclock,pushed and pulled to hear that exact thumpping noise when in spin cycle.now that would probably be a bad bearing with execessive play-vertically.if so.must i replace the complete rear tub and bearing assembly with this model and if that is the case,can u tell me,all the parts i would need to replace to execute this repair???.oh-mi,this is no small task to perform either and also very costly$$$$$
I’ll bet that you will need an INNER WASH BASKET, And If it were ME, I’d replace the rear 1/2 of the tub,(it contains the brg.&seal) The ONLY other part that I would order is the foam seal or gasket that goes between the 2 halves of the tub, Thats it!!! Good Luck!!!
If It Was Your Washer Machine,would You Repair This Machine???.the Cost From Sears For Both Of Those Parts-exceeds 900… $$$$.and That Is If I Totally Disassemble And Repair My Self.??? Is It Wort It???.what Would Be The Cost If A Repair Technician,replaced Those Parts And His Mark-up For Parts And Labor.??? Just Curious!!!
I own an appliance repair co. I’m not sure, but I think I would REALLY put some pressure on sears!!! $900 sounds VERY HIGH for those 2 parts. If thats what they cost, JUNK it, and find another one.
Timmo,
We can sell the outer tub ( gasket included ) and inner tub for $742.50 + shipping.
Call us toll free at 1-877-477-7278 or use the links below to order them online.
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Outer tub, part number: AP3773839
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Inner basket, part number: AP3772745
Timmo,
I just saw your post about the loud thumping noise your washer is making.
I have a similar washer, Kenmore Elite model #110.44936200
I have the exact same problem..
I had a service tech come yesterday and he told me that the mounts on the rear tub were broken and to my surprise the parts would be covered under warranty. I purchased this machine on 6/03.
I had to call the service number on the front of my parts catalogue and had to pay an additional charge for a SEARS service tech to come diagnose the problem. The Sears guy came this morning and did indeed say the mounts were broken and the parts are covered under warranty but I would have to pay for service. Not too bad..My total bill is $328.86. It sounds like a lot but compared to a new front load washer, repairing this one makes more sense.
I too have a house full of children and would be lost without my washer.
I suggest you check your warranty section regarding the plastic outer drum.
Be careful, because at first the Sears guy told me that my parts were not covered, but I showed him my warranty and then he agreed. You’ll need to replace the stainless steel basket too, because it is some-how connected.
Good Luck
If you purchased a Sears Elite HE washer, and the manual did not specify to use HE soap, please contact me regarding a class action lawsuit.
I purchased mine in March 2003, and HE soap was not instructed, although I understand now that the manual was later corrected.
Hi Drags1998, Im actually running into this issue with my kenmore washer and the description below is exactly what Im experiencing. You mentioned a 3legged spider but I’m sure what part this would be to replace? Can you further elaborate and let me know what part this 3legged spider is ?
Thanks much!
[QUOTE=Drags1998;71543]If you spin the basket by hand, Does the brg feel rough? If you open the door, grab the basket at 12oclock and 6oclock, when you push with 1 hand pull with the other(without spinning the tub) can you hear a scraping noise? What happens MOST of the time is the 3legged spider on the back of the drum gets corroded and breaks 1 of its legs. Do you have REALLY hard water in your area? Have you ALWAYS used He soap in this washer?[/QUOTE]
Hi Drags1998, Im actually running into this issue with my kenmore washer and the description below is exactly what Im experiencing. You mentioned a 3legged spider but I’m sure what part this would be to replace? Can you further elaborate and let me know what part this 3legged spider is ?
Thanks much!
I also own a Kenmore Elite HE 3t front loader. The motherboard had to be replaced shortly after I brought it home in Sept.'04. Since then no problems…until a week ago when it began to sound like a jet turbine and making a terrible thumping noise. It always was loud but this is painful! I took the back off and find a large metallic stain similar to what you see around disc brakes when worn. When I tun the shaft by way of the belt pully, the bearing feels rough. So, my question is, can that pully be removed with minimal disassembly and without the need for a press?
:eek: I too have had ongoing problems with this machine. I continuously have challenges with the DL mechanism. As well, I often get the F11 message and have to stop and restart cycles. It started not long after purchase in 2004 but has continuously gotten worse. I recently had to reposition the location of the washer and dryer and ever since that, the DL problem as flaired up and has resulted in a load being locked in the machine. The usual series of connect/disconnect/restart activity is not working. I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue, or if you have insight on whether the machine is worth fixing? Sears is telling me “out of warranty, and anywhere from $140-$250 as long as it’s less than $500. More than that, if I pay the $250, they will give me a $500 voucher”… Any insight on cost of this type of repair is also appreciated.
Thanks,
Nicole
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]To Nkahny,[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]My name is Brian and I’m part of the Sears Cares Escalations team. I am very sorry that you’re having this experience with your washer. I found this post and it seems as if you’re looking for alternate solutions to repair than Sears. This is a great site and they have a lot of good information for consumers. You also talk here about our Service Smart agreement which is a good option as it would save you around 250.00 off of a new purchase essentially. New appliances may not always be an option and we would still like the opportunity, if you don’t find answers on this site, to allow my team to possibly assist with the service. We do have some options that will help you make your decision. At your convenience, please contact my office via email at [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#606420]searscares@searshc.com[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman] and we’d be happy to discuss our possibilities with you. In the email, please provide a contact phone number and the phone number the washer was purchased under (if different than the contact phone number) and we will call you directly. Also, in your email, please provide the screen name (Nkahny) used to post on this site, for reference to your issue, and we do look forward to talking to you soon.[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Thank you,[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Brian J.[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Senior Case Manager[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]Sears Cares[/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
The bracket that holds the tube in place is broke. Mine just broke after 5.5 years