I have since pulled the complete door-lock assembly out by removing the top and unplugging it (3 plugs) then removing the 3 torx screws that hold it in position (visible when you open the door)
Also on the door itself remove the two torx screws that hold the pin to the door as you may need it to do a little testing..
It’s one long plastic assembly that with great care comes out straight up once these plugs are removed.. Just don’t take the screws out until the plugs are all off.. (makes it much easier) the larger plug has two clips that need to be pressed AS your pulling the plug out.. the other two top ones come out easily…
On the bottom of the lock assembly there is a black plastic circle with a sort of T shape on it that allows you to unlock the door without power (accessible by removing the lower panel on the machine)..
IF the pin you removed from the door is in the hole (locked) and you cant pull this black-tab down to release it then your assembly is binding up internally..
Don’t worry It’s not broken just yet.. You just need to open it up and reset it’s positioning..
A good 14 tiny plastic clips hold the two halves together and beware of the small spring on the top pushing the plastic pin out over a white “cherry” switch… Open the assembly up gently on a clean table so nothing fly’s away..
Check it’s operation carefully.. insure that the lower recoil-spring in the very bottom that lays flat is allowing the white slider assembly to click back and forth WHEN the door pin is in the assembly.. when it is not in lock position the coil pack can’t pull the white slider up and down (and isn’t supposed to) get it?
IF you must break it down more to move this spring back into position on the white slider assembly it is possible.. Hold the spring-loaded lock (metal) pivoting bar down and push out the pin.. then release it gently.. the spring and the lever will come out.. thus gaining access to the slider itself..
IF you need to go deeper and remove the open-switch levers make note of how they go and how they sit in relation to the white slider.. in one direction they make contact.. in the other direction they dont..
Along with opening it up and making it work correctly I used the same contact-cleaner on the copper “open switch” connections as it seems that 90% of my Kenmore woe’s are from bad connections..
CRC Contact Cleaner seen HERE
On mine I found that a small scrap of plastic (not from the machine) got caught in the lock assembly and prevented it from allowing the coil to tell the control assembly that it indeed was “closed and locked” so I would get that error code “F” then a DL"
WARNING: On mine I managed to put the striker plate inside it on backwards the first time.. I went to slowly shut the door after just re-assembling it and the pin would not go in.. I knew what was wrong the second it bounced back at me.. Whoops!
You need to recoil the striker back a bit and push the heavy door spring bracket down at the same time THEN install the pin..:o
It’s a little tricky to re-assemble but not that bad.. Once you open it twice like I did.. it’s EASY.. 
I made a video on my YT channel
YouTube - berkelusa
or
Kenmore Door Switch Latch Repair Video
HOPE THIS HELPS ANYONE OUT THERE WITH A KENMORE WASHER He3
Rob
