Just yesterday my washer stopped advancing through it’s cycles. I can manually move it along but it won’t do it on it’s own. Also, when I do manually advance the timer, the spin cycle won’t start up.
The washer was here when we moved in 4 yrs ago and I don’t have the manual.
I’ve been told it’s most likely the timer.
Any suggestions?
[B]Update** so I went out and bought a new timer as was suggested to me and no change. It will still fill with water but won’t move on unless I turn the dial. I have watched the motor while turning the timer and it never seems to move. I can manually turn the basket as well. I can’t seem to get the spin cycle to work.
Please help as I have 2 young boys (1 and 3) and the laundry is piling up fast!
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I cannot get your model number to come up, so I don’t know exactly what type of machine you have. Who advised you to replace the timer and on what basis?
Please check it and repost. Look for it to start with a 110 or 417.
Thanks
it’s a canadian model from sears - ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo_PDF/Webster/5995348082.pdf
so that is the only model # I have. I know I have seen it listed differently in the us on other message boards but I don’t recall the #.
I was told over the phone by both a sears technician and another serviceman that it was the timer so that is why I bought one.
now another tech is saying it has to be either the main control board or the speed control board. I don’t want to have to out and pay for more parts that arent needed.
Ok, good. If I had not been half asleep I would have recognized the Canadian number (used to live in Buffalo, loved going to Canada).
Anyway you have a Frigidaire Gallery washer, and here is the service manual.
http://frigidaireservicetips.com/pdfs/360_TumbleActionWashers.pdf
As you can see from the trouble shooting section replacing the speed control board is the likely solution. Those boards go bad regularly on these models. See if you can determine it is getting power, and if so, then replacing has a good chance of fixing things. If it does, put the old timer back in and if it still works see if you can return the new one.
Thanks for the info, I have been searching forever to try and find a service manual! I’ll see if I can determine if the speed control board is getting power. Unfortunately I have already talked to the store about the new timer and they don’t do exchanges or refunds on any electric parts so I’m stuck with it 
I’ll let you know what I find out about on the speed board.
Sorry for the long delay, we were away for a while and ended up just buying a new one as I didn’t have the time to test it out.
However, tonight I managed to get my hands on a voltmeter and following the directions on pg 50 of the service manual you sent me, I was able to determine the motor is not defective.
Now if I did it correctly, the readings indicate that the timer I replaced the old one with is also defective. Here were the readings I got:
between pin 5 to pin 1 = 8v
5 to 2 = 8v
5 to 6 = 0v
5 to 9 = 0v
5 to 10 = 8v
so according the the flowchart, this would mean the timer is defective and not the control board as I was not able to get any 120 vac readings. Is this correct? The guy I bought the time from swears it works.
Thanks again for all your help.
Just wondering if anyone is able to help me out on this? I would love to get this washer up and running as I have a friend now who needs a new one but can’t afford to replace his.
Does the above info make sense (voltmeter readings)? I called the company that I bought the replacement timer from and they assured me it would not be defective.
Please help !!
Ok, my understanding was that your machine would operate when you moved the timer manually, but that it would not spin. If that is the situation and you are not getting power to the speed control board then it would seem your timer is defective.
If that is not the case, then it is possible current is not getting to the timer, in which case the door lock assembly or reed switch can be the problem.
That’s correct, I was able to manually advance the timer and get the machine to fill and drain, but not spin. How do I determine if I am not getting current to the timer?
It appears I am getting power to the speed board. What other tests should I be performing?
Again, I really appreciate the help.
If you are getting power to the speed control board but it will not spin then the likely problem is the speed control board.
If you order the part from this site (no, we are not connected to the parts operations of APP, we are just volunteers) and it does not fix the problem then you may be able to return it for a full refund. See the returns policy.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][COLOR=navy][COLOR=navy][FONT=Arial]Thanks again for the info. I was curious, will the parts from a Kenmore Elite model # 110.24082200 work on my machine?
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Thanks again, are there any other model #'s that would have compatible parts? I seem to be able to find other Kenmore washers around here taht I can get for free. Would 1104560291 work?
Again, I really appreciate the help.
The first three digits of the model number for Kenmore appliance indicate the manufacturer (Sears makes nothing, they just sell under their own brand name, Kenmore and other brands).
The 110 models in the U.S. are made by Whirlpool, the 417 models in the U.S. are made by Electrolux and sold under the Kenmore name. Electrolux also sells them under the Frigidaire name in the U. S. and has also made some front loaders for GE that are basically the Frigidaire Gallery washer. So many of the Frigidaire parts are compatible with your machine but not the Whirlpool parts.
Sorry.