Hello everyone, I have a dryer kicking my butt at the moment. I can start the dryer on any cycle or setting and it will run the motor for roughly 5-10 seconds then shut off. If I try to restart it immediately nothing will happen. If I try again in a few minutes it will do the same thing, run for a few seconds then shut off. I have plenty of experience with wiring diagrams, but strictly with DC 12volt systems. I have the wiring diagram and it is alittle confusing to me. I have already replaced the motor because it seemed excessively noisy, I figured it was just overheating. I have checked a few things on the heating side and everything seems ok. I really figured my problem wasen’t there anyway because of the nature of the problem. When this first happened it did it to my wife, when I went out to look at it the first time it ran for a few seconds then stopped, I tried again and it ran several loads of clothes with no problems. Now its doing it again and its doing it every time… Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208576801.pdf
Does sound like the motor is overheating and tripping it’s internal protect.
Did you replace the motor because of this shut off problem or because it was noisy or both?
Try turning the drum by hand. Should turn fairly easily. If not could be the drum is jammed for some reason. You may want to try this on a couple other dryers to get a feel for it.
If it is difficult to turn run your fingers around the back and front of the tub to machine seal. To see if something has jammed between the tub and frame (bra wires are famous for this). Be careful in case the object is something sharp.
If nothing is jammed in there you will have to open it up and find the cause.
Your motor circuit is:
NEUTRAL , DOOR SWITCH , PUSH TO START SWITCH W/NO , START and MAIN motor windings 5M , BELT SWITCH , THERMAL FUSE , BU/BK timer contacts , L1
Once the motor starts running, it’s centrifugal switch activates to 6M:
Parallels the PUSH TO START switch to keep the unit running once the switch is released.
Removes the START winding from the circuit. If left in circuit this would overheat the motor.
All other parts/circuits do not matter as they are for the heater or timer operation.
I would check the power to the unit perhaps one side (NEUTRAL to L1) is low causing overheating. I would check it at rest and when the motor is running, just in case something else in the unit is lowering the voltage.
Could be something weird with the belt switch or a loose connection but does sound more like overheating.
I could not find actual motor info on this unit but am assuming that the motor you replaced came with new switches. If not perhaps it is a centrifugal switch problem.
I replaced the motor assembly which basically has everything internal. I replaced the motor for this exact problem. I have ran the motor with no belt by depressing the tension arm switch, motor still only runs for a few seconds than shuts off. I didn’t buy it for the stupid amount sears wants for it, but this is my motor Motor, assembly 60 hz., Part #279787 | Laundry Appliances | SearsPartsDirect.com
You did not say if it got hot when you ran it with no load.
If it did and stopped then I would say that your new motor has a problem.
I would check that the motor is getting 120 volts, low voltage can cause it to overheat. A bad line or pitted/dirty contacts in the timer or a switch could cause this.
Also check that the motor winding resistances are OK.
I am assuming you spun the armature and it rotated OK.
Only other thing I can think of is something is very very weird with a wiring short in the unit but the motor is pretty well self contained so it does not make sense to me what it could be.
Price for a new motor looks about the same as on this site which is usually priced reasonably so perhaps there is some thing special about this unit.
AP3094233
FIXED!
Fixed it guys, turns out I had a short so I was actually getting 220 on my motor side causing it to overrun and then overheat.
Glad to hear you found the cause.
A very common problem/symptom with a very uncommon cause.
Thanks for getting back to us, it is always nice to know the final outcome.
Also you may have saved someone else hours of troubleshooting time.
[quote=trackready;180229]FIXED!
Fixed it guys, turns out I had a short so I was actually getting 220 on my motor side causing it to overrun and then overheat.[/quote]
How did you fix the short?
I am having that very same problem, how did you fix the short?
I was scrolling through the posts and found you had the same problem as i do, i was wondering how you fixed the short. A little help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a GE Dryer dbvh512gf1ww and the dryer is not staying hot. The flame comes on for 10 seconds and goes out for 1 minute and on for 10 seconds in a cycle. Feels hot at first but does not stay hot. Already replaced the thermostat safty and the t- stat outlet bkup but it is still haveing trouble. What do you think.
My dryer is electric not sure what to do