Kenmore 500: spin cycle works when empty, does not work when full

Washer Repair
1

I have been having problems with the spin cycle not working with my Kenmore 500. Sometimes it will work, sometimes it won’t. I check the coupler, and it is okay, but didn’t want to get too far into the transmission and clutch, so I put it back together. I bypassed the lid switch to see if that was the problem, and the spin cycle worked while there was no clothing in the washer. So we put a load in, with the lid switch bypassed and ran the cycle. With clothes in the basket, the spin cycle won’t work.

Any help from anyone would be great. Thanks.

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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]A lot of times this will be the clutch. There is a video on this page that shows how to access and remove the clutch Whirlpool Washer Not Spinning Repair Guide[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

3

Applianceman,

Thanks for the tip and the help pages. I haven’t had a chance to go through it yet, but they will be very helpful. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks again

4

So I removed the clutch and it seems to be in good condition. I don’t know how to tell exactly if it is good or not, but the pads still have thickness to them, the spring doesn’t seem abnormally weak, and the clutch lining seems to be in good shape. The only thing I can see is that the pads may be a little polished off.

Once I got to looking though, the two tabs that sit on top of the drive block, just above the special nut that holds the tub on, are quite bent and worn out. Plus there are metal shavings in the vicinity. Would this cause the spin cycle not to work?

Another thing. To get the spin to work, we can take the tub to the washer and “wind” it by spinning it clockwise. After a few spins it seems as if it catches and the spin will then work. With the transmission on, I can take the coupler and turn it clockwise and it will spin freely for a few turns, then it “catches” as well and will try to turn the tub.

I have no idea if this implies anything, but if anyone could help, that would be great. Thanks for your time.

5

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If you are saying that the motor is running and you are bypassing the lid switch and then helping the tub to start. Once you help it start it will spin. A lot of times it will not spin fast when this is done.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman] [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]If this is what you were talking about. Then I say this is almost always the clutch. I did say almost because it not necessarily the clutch but in my experience this is the typical scenario. [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman] [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]The tabs could cause the problem if they are slipping in the drive block rather than locking into the block. This would most likely cause an odd noise when the washer was trying to spin. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman] [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If you have the clutch out try and turn it, it should be hard to turn. If it turns relatively easy replace it. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

6

I’m not sure how to explain it.

First of all, the tub is quite hard to spin manually. I’m not sure if it should spin easily by just spinning it by hand, but it is quite difficult. Then after a few turns of the tub it gets to a point where it won’t really turn any more, and that seems to be when the spin will finally work.

I also read on another forum that a worn out drive block will almost always have metal shavings under the agitator, which I do.

Thanks for your help. Hopefully I can get this dang thing figured out.

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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If you are talking about turning the tub with the washer off then this tells you nothing other than the brakes are working. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Yes, you will get metal shavings if the block is bad. You can take the tub out and see if the drive block is worn. It will be obvious if it is. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

8

Here is a pic of the top of the drive block. It seems like the drive block itself looks okay. My concern is the two tabs that are just above the spanner nut. They are rounded off and it seems like that is where the metal shavings are coming from.
washer 006.jpg (40.7 KB)

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[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Open the lid and bypass the lid switch by sticking something down to press the button. Put it is spin and watch it. If the shaft you see is turning but the tub is not then the drive block is bad. If that isn’t the case the problem is elsewhere. [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]

10

Your drive block is broken and the top of the spin tube is damaged too.

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Look closely at this pic of a drive block AP6008836

See how it has two slots and a lip that sets on top of the drive tube. Yours has broken and slid down the drive tube. That is why it won’t spin with a load. Also the basket is actually getting closer the the bottom of the tub and will soon rub on it.

I need your actual model no. to look up the right drive block for your machine.

12

It look that way to me to but couldnt say for 100% I dont see this that often. Thanks

13

Thanks for the help. The model number is 28522700 and serial number CW0340292.

Will I have to replace the spin tube as well? Thanks again for your help.

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[quote=silv50;263599]Thanks for the help. The model number is 28522700 and serial number CW0340292.

Will I have to replace the spin tube as well? Thanks again for your help.[/quote]

Sears model numbers have a three digit prefix number. I used 110. on yours and came up with drive block AP6008836

I would try it with the old spin tube and see if it will hold. Just clean up any rough edges on the spin tube. I would probably clean it very well to remove any grease and maybe use a loctite kind of product to help the drive block lock onto the spin shaft. Tighten the nut pretty tight, just don’t get it too tight or you could damage the spin tube bearing. Good luck.

15

Thanks for your help. Will I damage the new drive block if I don’t replace the spin tube? I really don’t want to do it twice. Also, any tips on getting the spanner nut off without buying the wrench? That is an expensive tool to only use once? Thanks again

16

Thanks for all the help. I ended up just replacing the drive block. I should have taken a pic of the new and the old, but the inner ring of the drive block where the two notches are that hook in with the spin tube was completely gone. The two notches from the spin tube had shredded the inside ring of the drive block. Does anyone know what could cause that?

Thanks for your help. I was extremely useful and got my washer back to running. Thanks again