Kenmore 110.24642300 Direct Drive wont spin- replaced clutch and motor coupler

Washer Repair
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Kenmore 110.24642300 Direct Drive wont spin.

Replaced motor coupler and clutch.

Wonderful washer for many years put in “normal” load, FILLED, AGITATED, DRAINED then would not spin.

Tried so far:

  1. NEW MOTOR COUPLER- not realizing it would not agitate either if it was the motor coupler, I put in a new motor coupler.
    The old one was not in bad condition, rubber intact, plastic intact. There was a little gearcase oil on it.
    Test: filled, agitated, drained and as before DID NOT SPIN. There was a bit of a “burning smell” when it got to spin and
    did not spin, quickly turned machine off.

  2. NEW CLUTCH - No issues removing and replacing the clutch. Discovered when I removed the agitator that the
    center part of the inner tub is rusting out. There was actually a hole about the size of silver dollar or a ginger snap. I had
    seen periodically small broken pieces of rusted metal at the very bottom of a load of laundry under the agitator that I did
    not know where it was coming from. Still proceeded to complete clutch repair.
    Test: washer filled, agitated, DID NOT DRAIN THIS TIME. Moved timer manually to the spin cycle, it DID NOT SPIN as before AND IT ALSO APPEARED TO ADD SYMPTOM OF NO DRAINING NOW AND THE TIMER GOING TOTALLY SILENT. Before when it did not spin, it sounded “normal” just was not spinning. This test- it did not spin and then the timer went totally silent as if it was not working at all. And it did not drain.

I don’t know if a problem with spinning could cause secondary damage to the timer? Or why it is just completely silent and
now will not drain either.

Unplugged, turned off.

Any suggestions for what to try next would be very welcome. I don’t think it is the motor or it would not agitate. I don’t know if the problem with spinning may have been the corroding inner tub and now that has damage the timer as well? I don’t know if the perfectly working drain pump may have been compromised somehow and that is why it isn’t draining? I don’t see anything IN the drain pump, but it is not clear plastic like a brand new one…a bit discolored, maybe from dying fabric some time ago.

I am going to take it apart again tomorrow and actually remove the inner tub for a more thorough inspection and to look at what I see under it…any suggestions for a used Kenmore inner tub parts supplier also welcome. Thank you very much.

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There’s a capacitor mounted on the back panel, behind the tub, that can sometimes cause the motor to go silent during spin. It’s not the most common failure, but it does happen — so it’s a good place to start, along with checking the basket.

Here’s how I’d approach it:

  • Discharge the capacitor first, then test it with your meter set to capacitance (the symbol that looks like —|(—.

  • It should measure between 189–227 MFD.

  • If it’s outside that range, the capacitor has failed.

If the capacitor checks good:

  • Reconnect the wires.

  • Bypass the lid switch for testing purposes.

  • Remove the drain pump from the motor so it’s not adding any load.

  • Then run the washer in spin mode and see how the motor behaves.

Let me know what readings you get or what it does in spin, and we can take the next step.

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Thank you so very much for your communication here!

I plan to check the capacitor tomorrow with a little help. Today I am at a place of the inner tub

being fully stuck! I removed the clutch/transmission as I saw a post that said that may be an

easier way to get a stuck inner tub out, but so far it will not budge.

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It sounds like the spin basket is stuck on the drive bock and the drive tube. I have had to use rope to try and provide upward pull on the spin basket while using a slightly long 2x2 piece of wood to hammer down on the drive block to get the basket to release.

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Succssfully got the inner tub out today with a helper pulling up on the tub and me hammering the center with a 2x4 and a hammer. The drive block and the drive tube are heavily covered with rust, as you can see if the above video of each of the parts works.

I am not sure if the rust on the drive tube is actually only from the inner tub and can be cleaned off somehow? As the video shows, it is very thick and appears caked on, but I don’t know if the actual drive tube itself is also rusted?

And the question here is: with looking at the condition of the tub, the drive block and the drive tube- if I can replace the inner tub and drive tube (if rust cannot be removed) -would I be looking at having to replace bearings and seals and more other parts that would make it unlikely to have a working washing machine (that is not going to break again) for a reasonable amount of time? This machine is 22 years of service here. Perhaps it’s service is coming to an end…

I would prefer very much to replace the needed parts if it is going to be worthwhile and last another 22 years. I just don’t know if the level of rust discovered may mean that is an unreasonable idea.

I am guessing water got in where it should not be from some kind of seal I was not aware I should have replaced. The only noticeable thing perhaps (that may have alerted me to this) was a few times after getting all of the clothes out there was a sound like a coin was in the bottom of the washer and when I sweeped the bottom of the tub with my hand to locate it, there was a small piece of rusted metal, much smaller than a coin, that I thought looked like it must be part of the tub. I could not see any visible rust or degrading metal. At that time I had not ever taken out the agitator even….(only replaced water pump once about 10 years ago.)

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The video is not able to load on my end. However, if the drive tube needs to be replaced, it comes with all of the internal bearings and seals already installed. It is expected that the drive tube might accumulate rust over 20 years. As far as the question of repairing goes, really it boils down to preference. W10820043 Basket Drive | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock

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I don’t know if this one will work. the first was avi and this one is webm.

Thank you! very much for the link. I thought the cost of the inner tub plus these may not make sense.

Also WHAT ADDITIONAL PARTS WILL I NEED TO REPLACE-

the tub seal comes WITH the basket drive you linked?
could it be the transmission itself also will need replacement and not just the new clutch?

I understand maybe it cant be told like this, but IN GENERAL if an inner tub rusts on to the drive tube/basket drive- is there an expected group of parts that will also need replacing if that makes sense

(If this video doesn’t work, I tried to search what kind of videos can be uploaded to try to figure it out and did not find anything that listed the files types)

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Also what is the difference between this part you linked to and this one WP64208 Tube Spin | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock ?

It seems hard from the pictures to tell which tube I am seeing rusted after removing the inner tub. I would like to be able for one of the videos uploaded to be seen! I did ask about it in the site feedback area to see if I can find out how to get the video to work. Thank you

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The basket drive in the link I provided would come with all of the bearings, the brake pads, spring, shaft seals, and brake arms already attached. The spin tube WP64208 is just the tube, upper seal, and the inner bearings. The tub seal does not come with either part and would more than likely need to be replaced. W10814296 Centerpost Gasket | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock

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Thank you again for your communication here!

So the basket drive in the link includes the UPPER SEAL? And it is actually the same spin tube (that is what confused me…if there were two different tubes) WITH the parts you listed included with it? Appreciate very much the help working this out…..

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So I am wondering if I put a new inner tub on and just leave the tube as is, if this would run on for a while?

I am thinking that the inner tub and the drive tube work as one unit, so there is no need to worry if they are “fused” together with rust unless you are wanting to remove the inner tub and can’t get it out. Is this correct? Is there no need for the inner tub to be able to freely move around the basket drive tube?

Working on a budget and running out of clothes ….

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will this inner tub fit in my machine W10389328?

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Research says no on the tub. I took the transmission off to make sure I had seated the clutch properly with the basket drive/brake assembly.

I read that you can check the transmission by turning the motor coupler. I spun and spun the motor coupler and the clutch did not move at all. Tried both directions and there was zero movement of the clutch when turning the coupler by hand. Is this because the machine is on its side? Or should it move when I turn the coupler if the transmission is good?

I am wondering if it is the transmission now?
Going to be quite a list of parts order once I get down to which ones anyways…. I have heeded many posts that say $ for parts up to the price of a new machine is better spent repairing these. Has there been any innovation in the most recent machines or are we still at these old direct drives were 25 or more year machines and none of the new ones touch that…

Thank you so much for your help in this project. I only ever put on a new water pump, so it’s a learning experience.

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To clarify what was happening, the washer would not spin or drain, and it was completely silent when it was in a spin cycle. Yet, it did agitate and fill with water. Am I correct with this assessment?

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If you glance at it, the initial post describes what happened. To clarify what was happening as you asked-Initially the washer filled, agitated and drained. It only did not spin.

After first time research, start with motor coupler. (This was not correct as I later learned that it would not agitate either if it was the coupler.) Test after new coupler showed no change. Filled, agitatated, drained- timer made the appropriate sounds for the spin cycle and there was some noise happening, but no spinning.

SECOND- THIS IS WHEN IT changed to filled, agitated, no draining & then completely silent on drain or spin position on the timer - after:

More research led to trying a new clutch. (Essentially throwing first cheap parts/easy install at the machine hoping to be able to do needed laundry again quickly.) Installed the clutch. Tested with small rag load. THIS IS WHEN it filled and agitated then -first time in this process- would not drain. When it reached the spin cycle there was timer sound at first and some noise then a slight burn smell actually as I now recall then dead silence. Now the timer was dead silent if I set it to the drain or spin position.

Hoping maybe I had the drain pump or something off in the r/r of the clutch, took it off. Double checked that the brake assembly was properly seated. I don’t know if it is guaranteed when gear box is aligned properly and the 3 1/2 inch bolts go in snugly, as was the case, or if the two springs clutch and brake could still be rubbing and making a problem. I saw on the video to be aware of placement of the clutch spring when you put the gear box back on in several videos.

I also saw this about testing the transmission:

To check if the transmission is working normally, you can spin the motor coupling in both directions. After a little or a lot of spinning in one direction (perhaps a couple of revolutions of the coupling), eventually you’ll see the clutch start to turn. You’ll notice that it takes more torque to turn the coupling at the point where the clutch engages the brake. If it reaches a point where it really can’t be turned at all, the brake might be stuck. After a lot of spinning in the other direction, eventually the transmission shaft will turn a little bit clockwise then a little bit counterclockwise. This is agitation.

That has led to where things are now. Previous post explained there is zero movement of the clutch when I manually turn the motor coupler to test. The transmission shaft DOES turn one way and then back (agitation) and appears to turn in one direction (spin) when I manually turn the motor coupler. The clutch DOES NOT move at all if I am just looking at the silver dish for that. And the current question: does the zero movement when I turn the coupler mean bad transmission and there is no point reassembling and testing as the motor coupler test failed? I may as well not put it back together to test at this point if that test confirms it.

Better to order the next part before reassembling though the question I had about the rusted basket drive being able to keep working would matter- maybe that is what caused the transmission to go out? So new inner tub, new transmission on the rusted drive may be unworkable. I thought I saw that you can test it without the tub in it

(it said at your own risk- If all good, then next step is at your OWN RISK.

With shell off…Jump out lid switch and set machine to spin. With flashlight look at the shiny silver clutch bowl which sits above the main body of transmission. It should be spinning. If not… then briefly stop restart the spin via timer(confirms neutral gear engaged). If still not spinning then the transmission is toast.

If cluctch is spinning then either clutch is worn out or basket drive issue… broken stem on it or worse case seized bearings)

Thank you again! It is also my intent that gathering information here about this in one thread may help others with similar repair situation to locate some of the pieces all in one place.

p.s.

rust pic
rust pic721×357 53.8 KB

I took a screenshot of the video to show what I can, because I haven’t seen any answer yet about what kind of videos you can put up that will work. Hopefully it will show when I hit Reply. Do you know anything about vid types that work per chance?

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Unfortunately, I do not know what videos would work. The best success I have seen as far as viewing videos has been links to the video such as a youtube link. If the transmission and brake/drive assembly are together and the motor coupling is being rotated, the clutch will not rotate unless enough force is applied. The transmission coupling will also only rotate so far until the clutch engages with the brake. However, this should not cause the washer to go completely silent. I would suggest ensuring the timer is able to send voltage to the motor during the spin cycle. An easy check while everything is disassembled would be moving the timer to spin and setting it as if it is going to spin. Then, disconnect the yellow wire from the timer and test from that terminal to the white with black stripe wired terminal for continuity. Then test from the red wired terminal to the blue wired terminal. If both tests have continuity, the timer should be good and the next step would be testing the start capacitor to make sure it is able to help the motor start. After those test good, then further mechanical checks can be done. The motor and transmission can be removed, then the transmission coupling rotated to see if the clutch will rotate. Regarding the drive tube and the spin basket, it does look like those would need to be replaced based on the images.

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Working on this some yesterday. Plugged in the washer with the motor and transmission out. I turned on the timer and checked the spin position. Yay! It was NOT dead silent! Sounded “normal” sounds, so for now I think that is telling me yes we have voltage. And likely yes the capacitor is good with all the normal sounds. This seems to r/o further tests of the voltage at present. Next mechanical checks:

Could I have had the new clutch in set wrong with the brake? Or does a snug fit when I put the transmission 3 bolts back in mean there is no way that could be off? One step up now is whether taking off the clutch and putting back on again making sure brake is all the way turned counterclockwise so it is up snug and not dropped down some. I did not know this when I put the new clutch in and the 3 bolts snugged up fine, so I don’t know if this could have caused the addition of no drain and no timer sound when testing, because of misfit. I asked this before, but now I would like to not do the reset it and retest if the snug bolts mean it could not be a problem.

I also asked if the inner tub and the basket drive deep rust situation may have jammed the tub from spinning and then overheated/loaded the system during the test and that is why the timer went silent. Motor and timer only equals the proper sounds of life as said. If so, it seems new tub and new basket drive needed before next test. Also asked if there was anyway to clean up the basket drive as much as possible with wire brush and then a coat of rustoleum rusty metal primer and see if it could continue to serve with a new tub since both parts are $200 (and a little time in between better budget wise.)

IF NOT- do you have a part number for the center post frame piece? So far it appears that the basket drive is completely fused with this and I don’t know if I can get them apart. I can’t find a name for this part anywhere and I don’t seem to see it on the diagram.

Continued thanks for your work!

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figured out there are two tubes trying to take out the drive. do you have a part number for the center post frame piece? So far it appears that the basket drive is completely fused with this and I don’t know if I can get them apart. I can’t find a name for this part anywhere and I don’t seem to see it on the diagram.

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It is possible for the clutch to be installed where it can get hung up. When installing the transmission and clutch onto the tub, the best option I have found is setting the clutch spring on the opposite side of the brake release arm so that they do not pinch together and bind. The center post that the drive tube assembly would go through is going to be the tub and brake support assembly. Unfortunately, the manufacturer has discontinued this part and it is no longer available. https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-tub-support-280184-ap3892442.html