Kenmore 110.24642300 Direct Drive wont spin- replaced clutch and motor coupler

Washer Repair
1

Kenmore 110.24642300 Direct Drive wont spin.

Replaced motor coupler and clutch.

Wonderful washer for many years put in “normal” load, FILLED, AGITATED, DRAINED then would not spin.

Tried so far:

  1. NEW MOTOR COUPLER- not realizing it would not agitate either if it was the motor coupler, I put in a new motor coupler.
    The old one was not in bad condition, rubber intact, plastic intact. There was a little gearcase oil on it.
    Test: filled, agitated, drained and as before DID NOT SPIN. There was a bit of a “burning smell” when it got to spin and
    did not spin, quickly turned machine off.

  2. NEW CLUTCH - No issues removing and replacing the clutch. Discovered when I removed the agitator that the
    center part of the inner tub is rusting out. There was actually a hole about the size of silver dollar or a ginger snap. I had
    seen periodically small broken pieces of rusted metal at the very bottom of a load of laundry under the agitator that I did
    not know where it was coming from. Still proceeded to complete clutch repair.
    Test: washer filled, agitated, DID NOT DRAIN THIS TIME. Moved timer manually to the spin cycle, it DID NOT SPIN as before AND IT ALSO APPEARED TO ADD SYMPTOM OF NO DRAINING NOW AND THE TIMER GOING TOTALLY SILENT. Before when it did not spin, it sounded “normal” just was not spinning. This test- it did not spin and then the timer went totally silent as if it was not working at all. And it did not drain.

I don’t know if a problem with spinning could cause secondary damage to the timer? Or why it is just completely silent and
now will not drain either.

Unplugged, turned off.

Any suggestions for what to try next would be very welcome. I don’t think it is the motor or it would not agitate. I don’t know if the problem with spinning may have been the corroding inner tub and now that has damage the timer as well? I don’t know if the perfectly working drain pump may have been compromised somehow and that is why it isn’t draining? I don’t see anything IN the drain pump, but it is not clear plastic like a brand new one…a bit discolored, maybe from dying fabric some time ago.

I am going to take it apart again tomorrow and actually remove the inner tub for a more thorough inspection and to look at what I see under it…any suggestions for a used Kenmore inner tub parts supplier also welcome. Thank you very much.

2

There’s a capacitor mounted on the back panel, behind the tub, that can sometimes cause the motor to go silent during spin. It’s not the most common failure, but it does happen — so it’s a good place to start, along with checking the basket.

Here’s how I’d approach it:

  • Discharge the capacitor first, then test it with your meter set to capacitance (the symbol that looks like —|(—.

  • It should measure between 189–227 MFD.

  • If it’s outside that range, the capacitor has failed.

If the capacitor checks good:

  • Reconnect the wires.

  • Bypass the lid switch for testing purposes.

  • Remove the drain pump from the motor so it’s not adding any load.

  • Then run the washer in spin mode and see how the motor behaves.

Let me know what readings you get or what it does in spin, and we can take the next step.

3

Thank you so very much for your communication here!

I plan to check the capacitor tomorrow with a little help. Today I am at a place of the inner tub

being fully stuck! I removed the clutch/transmission as I saw a post that said that may be an

easier way to get a stuck inner tub out, but so far it will not budge.

4

It sounds like the spin basket is stuck on the drive bock and the drive tube. I have had to use rope to try and provide upward pull on the spin basket while using a slightly long 2x2 piece of wood to hammer down on the drive block to get the basket to release.