since the upper oven stopped heating immediately after the control board was replaced, I would concentrate on the new control installation, wiring, and output voltage before replacing another part.
The fact that the heating element passes continuity only tells us the element isn’t electrically open—it does not tell us that it’s receiving the required 240 VAC.
Start Here — Recheck the New Control Board
Turn the breaker OFF and pull the upper oven control area back open.
Compare every connector on the replacement board with the original wiring/photo if available. Look especially for:
- A connector not completely seated.
- A terminal pushed backward out of a connector.
- Bake/broil output wires installed on the wrong terminals.
- A loose or burned high-current terminal.
- Any jumper or wiring connection that had to be transferred from the original board.
- A replacement control that requires configuration/personality programming after installation.
Because the upper oven heated before the board replacement—even though it was producing an F-code—and now doesn’t heat at all, this is an important clue.
Check the Upper Oven Elements
With power OFF, disconnect at least one wire from the element being tested.
Check resistance rather than just using the continuity beep. Depending on which element you’re checking, you should normally see resistance in the tens of ohms, not OL.
Also check from each element terminal to the metal oven chassis. You should read OL/no continuity. If an element has continuity to ground, replace it.
Keep in mind that this oven uses more than one heating circuit. Testing one element doesn’t prove that all of the upper-oven heating components are good.
Most Important Test — Voltage at the Element
LIVE POWER WARNING: This test requires the oven energized with exposed 240-volt wiring. If you’re not comfortable making live voltage measurements, don’t perform this test.
Set the meter for AC volts, preferably a range above 240 V.
Command the upper oven to Bake and carefully measure across the two element terminals.
You should get approximately 240 VAC when the control is commanding that element ON.
If you have about 240 VAC but the element doesn’t heat, the element or its connections are faulty despite the continuity test.
If you have 0 VAC or only about 120 VAC across the element, the problem is upstream.
If There’s No 240 VAC
I’d trace the circuit backward toward the control. Check for approximately:
L1 to L2 = 240 VAC
L1 to Neutral = 120 VAC
L2 to Neutral = 120 VAC
If the oven has proper incoming 240 V but the upper-oven heating output isn’t being supplied, check the upper-oven high-limit/thermal protection circuit and then the control’s heater outputs.
A thermal device can have continuity checked with power OFF. It should normally measure approximately 0 Ω when closed. An OL reading indicates an open device.
One Important Question About the Original F-Code
The exact F-code you had before replacing the thermostat and control board is very useful. For example, a temperature-sensor-related fault can be caused by the sensor circuit or wiring, rather than the control itself.
So I wouldn’t replace another component yet.
Given the sequence of events, my order would be:
Board connectors/wiring → board configuration → 240-V supply → upper element voltage during Bake → high-limit circuit → control output.
If you give me the original F-code and the part number of the control board you installed, I can narrow this down considerably.