Brand: JennAir Model Number: JFC2089HPY Main Symptom: Freezer cold, fridge warm What happens & when: after leaving door open or turned off for a few hours
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
I defrosted the freezer and it worked normally for 2 weeks, and now someone turned off the fridge for a few hours and now it is messed up.
We are getting a new flap for it and flap guide people keep not making sure it closes.
last time this happened I fixed a part on the freezer slide that was keeping the spring from sucking it back. the freezer now closes reliably
I bought a bluetooth sensor that is logging the temperature and i put it near the sensor that goes on the refrigerant line in the freezer, it cycles about every day it has 30 minutes where it gets significantly warmer.
until we let it be off for a bit.
This leaves me believing it is the drain line.
also note, the control panel touch screen does not work, but the temperatures shown on the panel are accurate, leading me to believe it is not the control board but just the sensors.
we would replace this fridge, but it is counter depth and fits the space well.
This is a french door bottom mount freezer that shares parts with the other amana/maytag/whirlpool lines
Photos / video link: The blue line is temperature, spike occur periodically. the flat line is where it goes down to -20 the fridge stops working when the freezer is about -30
someone leaving the fridge open or off shouldn’t make it totally stop working.
With the refrigerator section not cooling but the freezer is then you will want to check the evaporator coil and see if the coils are impacted with ice. If it is then this will be a faulty defrost system and you would need to check the defrost thermostat and the heater for continuity. If they check ok then this will be a faulty control board.
the defrost thermostat is the one that clips to the copper line?
This was really surprising to me because it had been working and we thought it was the drain but this one was old enough to have the hard plastic drain, not the duck bill gland. it was a struggle to get the new drain kit on it.
I defrosted all the ice that was on the condenser and the freezer has been running at 22 degrees but the fridge has stayed at 38.
since that day it was left open it hasnt been working right.
It shows that it was doing the defrost periodically until that day. I guess its not that hard to swap the defrost thermostat.
We replaced the flap so it actually closes by itself,
i cut off the thermostat, it had continuity when it was very cold, and when it warmed up it opened (no continuity) getting water proof butt splices was something i could have done better with
I tested the heating element 33 ohms. I checked for shorts, didnt find any in the heating eleement
ok, i decided to chop off the thermistor, and it has no continuity when warm, and i stuck it in hyper cold ice packs and it reads no continuity,
the fridge shows corrext tempuratures in the control panel so i thought that was not gonna be it, but it must be.
Well I’m kinda stupid here, the thermistor is supposed to have different resistance depending on the temperature, and the new one I got is quite similar to the old one… and it does provide the temperature for the control board.
I would think it is a baffel. or something else between the top and the bottom.
it had been malfunctioning, then we left it off for a while and i did a deep clean. and it was working great, even obvioust defrost cycles until we accidentally unplugged it for a bit and plugged it back in. then no defrost cycles after that event.
The control board is more affordable than I thought. the other gentleman said its probably the control board, and so I guess it would be the relay on it? if the buttons worked I would go into diagnostic mode
I forced the baffle open and the temperatures are very very slightly more normal. (not significant yet)