Jenn air downdraft oven won’t heat over 100 degrees. F 5 code once. Hole was burnt in the element and has been replaced. Downdraft board has a brown,discolored spot on it. Has voltage from board to element. Cooktop and downdraft blower work correctly.Oven door also has not been unlocking and have to turn the breaker off to unlock it.
Can you describe it more detailed please? Does it get red?
Does the problem with the door still exist?
Does it show any error codes?
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Gene.
The broil element works right and the door has been fine since that happened. Not showing any codes but the bake element still won’t get hot. 100 degrees is all it will do. The broil element gets red hot and cycles correctly with the thermostat.
So, when you said “…Has voltage from board to element…”, you meant the broil element only?
You did not say anything about the door.
Gene.
The bake element has voltage going to it from the board. The broil element works fine and the door is now fine we think. The oven doesn’t work so we really don’t open the door for anything. Cooktop works fine also. This has been down for two years and I’d really like to fix it for her since her ex was too lazy to do it
Can you describe more detailed how did you check it and was the voltage please?
Gene.
Are you serious? Multi-meter,125v each leg. Am I wasting my time here?
More likely I am, if you can not answer a simple question.
If there is 125 VAC each leg to the heating element and the heating element is brand new then it must work. Unless you did something wrong while doing the voltage test. That’s why I asked you to describe step by step how did you do it.
Gene.
Hi.
Do you have 240VAC at the bake element contacts?
If you do - replace the bake element.
Simon.
Look gene. Kinda hard to go into more detail without sending you a video of me checking it. I have been in industrial maintance for the past 5 yrs and currently work servicing and repairing hvac units so I know my way around a multi meter however none of this has anything to do with an oven. My bet is my question ain’t in your book in front of ya so you don’t have a clue. I’ll figure it out myself. Just though it might be quicker getting advice from someone who I thought may work on ovens. No biggy..I’ll do it without your smartass help.
Hi Simon. Yes I have the correct voltage going to the bake element and it’s new but won’t heat up. When you set it to bake the broil element comes on. Is there a way to make it show previous codes? She hasn’t used it in 2 years and thinks it gave f5. I’ve checked all connections and wires and nothing is outta the ordinary. Took bake element out and checked continuity which was fine. Sve47500w is the model.
Michaelminor and Gene,
Our techs help out many people with a large range of experience. When he asked you to explain how you tested the power it wasn’t an insult or questioning your skills. Gene has many years of experience but he needs to understand what you did and how you did it. Your answer did not help. You should have explained what you did, something like this: Gene, I tested the bake element at each terminal to ground and got 125v, then I tested across those two terminals and got the required 240v. Is this how you did it? If you tested across the 2 terminals and got 125v, then Gene would have known how you tested and he could have determined that you didn’t have the 240v total voltage required and that could be the cause of the element only getting warm, because it is on half power.
If you had 240v at the element and it wouldn’t heat fully then that would indicate a bad element, like Simon said.
An f5 code it this: Watchdog and hardware conflictReplace clock (ERC).
The ERC is the clock and is usually what controls the oven.
Here is the clock for the model number you supplied. AP6010674
In your last post you said something about the bake element coming on when you turned on the broil element, is the the case? If thats happening Im sure Gene and Simon can help if you explain it to them!
You also have a relay board I believe this has the bake and broil relays on it. AP4010045
Our techs do their best to understand and help but we are on a forum and sometimes that means taking the time to explain in detail what you did so the tech can understand and make a diagnosis.
I am sorry there was some misunderstanding in this thread, we do our best to provide the best help possible. If there is anything I or anyone at AppliancePartsPros.com can do to help you fix the appliance please let us know.
No biggy. I figured it out myself. None of the people I work with had any trouble understanding how I described my problem or how I checked it. I’ve read many post that had much less detail with answers to their problem. How do you think I checked for voltage? Don’t assume everyone that has a question is a housewife or has no electrical background. I don’t claim to know everything or I wouldn’t have chose help on line. Like I said I don’t work on these type of ovens so I thought it may be quicker asking someone who does. Not a big deal, I fixed it. Thanks.
Awesome Im glad you got it fixed! Out of curiosity and for the people who may read this later, what was the problem and solution?
It’s the clock
The discolored spot on the downdraft board is what threw me. Didn’t want to spend $ on a part we didn’t need. There’s not much that’s cheap on these ovens. She’s happy and fixed a great meatloaf for the first time in two years last night. Now I can fix everything else her ex neglected! Lol!
Thanks for the update! Sounds like you may be a busy man for a while.