Brand: Jenn Aire Model Number: JJW2730WS02 Main Symptom: F8E0 oven cannot be used F8E2 has also been observed What happens & when: when any oven programming is used the error occurs. does not occur with microwave use
Error Code (if any): F8E0 F8E2
Parts or tests already tried: Replaced cooling fan with refurb W10273667
I’ve been troubleshooting my oven for a couple days now.
I don’t know if this is a contributor, but last week I used the microwave convection feature of this unit for likely the first time. At about the same time the errors reported began.
I can run the microwave without causing the alarm, but any oven programs will trigger it. additionally, I always get the F8E0 error and I have only noticed the F8E2 once.
when the errors began they were accompanied by a noticable, but not incredible electronics smell, more ozone than burning. This smell can easily be followed to the transformer component of the cooling fan. I followed the wiring for the fan and sensor back to the main board which appears and smells normal. no detectable component or connector damage.
I replaced the cooling fan W10273667 with another of the same part, locally sourced refurbished. not the superseding part. the alerts and smell persist as before. I can enter diagnostics mode and enable and disable the fan on demand. I haven’t had my IR thermometer handy, but i did poke the transformer with my instant read kitchen thermometer and it quickly got to 150F. I don’t think that reading is accurate, but i do think that it indicates the fan is getting too much current. It has been suggested that there is another cooling fan on the unit, but it is not immediately obvious like the one i’m working on is. I haven’t removed the shroud around the microwave, but I don’t see any indicators of another fan there. If there is another failed fan i haven’t seen, could that cause higher current to the working fan on the circuit because the other load is missing?
I’m looking for some more clarity before i start throwing money at the main and UI boards. Thanks a lot, I hope I provided decent info.
If you press 1, 2, 3, and repeat this for a total of 3 times, this will put the appliance into diagnostic mode. Use the up or down arrow to navigate to the component activation list and turn on the cooling fan low speed. Navigate to the upper oven information screen to identify the upper fan RPM and the lower oven information screen to identify the lower fan RPM. Do the RPMs measure the same or is one different from the other?
Thanks @WilliamM_APP_Team, I am familiar with the diagnostic mode on my unit (light, timer, light, 3x on my unit), and i can use it to power the fan on. I am not familiar with being able to view the speed, and ill go check that out this afternoon.
I don’t believe I have an upper and lower cooling fan, just the one. I think dual fans are on a dual oven unit, and i have microwave/oven combo. the microwave fan i found on top is dissimilar from the cooling fan.
Can anyone speak to the high temp and smell on the fan transformer being an effect of the main board being problematic.
Also, I see board repair options in replacement part searches. Can anyone vouch for the reliability of these services? I’d love to have my part repaired instead of replaced, but i don’t want to repair the part then buy another.
also thanks for the tech sheet @bigbuck1. i will familiarize myself with it!
From what I am able to see on the wiring schematic, there should not be a transformer on the fan circuit. There should be the operating coils and the hall sensor on the fan itself, then just the wires going to the main control and the neutral wire. The ozone smell could be from micro arcing. Excess current if there is a shorted component would usually cause overheating and a burning smell. Generally speaking, the main control would send out the same voltage to the fan motor winding that it receives from the power supply.
Thanks, I recognize many components by name. I guess transformer isn’t one of them. I’m looking at the attached tech resource, and working to get the fan RPM checked.
I took a quick look as i walked in before i reviewed everything and it seems like fan activation is inconsistent in the first place. the light relay gets triggered by navigating menus and I thought i was hearing the fan turn off when i left the activation menu. once i noticed it was the oven light relay clicking i saw that the fan is not turning off and on - however i do get the burning smell, and the coils/hall effect sensor are heating up - but the fan isn’t spinning. the fan did turn on while i was pressing buttons, but it wasn’t reliable. this is with a refurbished part that i just installed. i’m going to turn the breaker back on and see if there is a delay between me turning the fan on at the screen and it actually turning. ill hook up my multimeter as well. will someone verify that the wire harness is indeed correct, and which leads to test voltage across?
My old fan definitely does not spin freely, the new one does.
the new fan is refurbished and i’ve assumed it works as advertised. It could be defective still, and the smell/temp support that but aren’t very quantitative observations.
I’d appreciate any insight on whether a main board defect could be causing the behavior, or damaged the new part. I don’t want to invest in another new fan at this point, and have a board defect burn that out before i buy a third fan and board to replace together.
On the fan connector plug, I put my meter red/red black/white at the plastic connector and powered the breaker. when i got upstairs, the fan was reading 120 already and not spinning. i entered diagnostics and was able to repeat inconsistent fan engagement. i did get the fan to turn on, and was also able to verify rpm reported - ~1000-1050. the fan did power off on its own while i was monitoring. I dont know if thats expected
The fan measured 120 Volts AC without manually operating it? If you test from the white wire to the red wire, then from the white wire to the black wire at the terminal block, what voltage readings do you get?
for the second request, I believe you are asking that I attach my black meter lead to the white terminal as pictured below, and move my red lead to the white wire occupied by the black lead in the previous test?
The terminal block test verified there is not a reversed wire causing voltage to go through the neutral side. With that in mind, the main relay control is sending voltage when it should not be and this would be a relay control failure. However, if the fan was not blowing when you were able to measure voltage, the fan is faulty as well. Unfortunately, it looks like the main control has been discontinued. WPW10292568 Electronic Control Board | Genuine Whirlpool OEM In Stock
