Replaced a bad rocker switch(fan/light). Turned on motor, it ran very slow for about 2minutes, then kicked in high for about 5 seconds before it quit and smoked. I tested the voltage output at the power cord to the fan, it read 24v. Is this the correct votage? The stove was purchased used, so I don’t know the history. The switch was very simple to wire, matched wire for wire. The only way to mess up would be if the previous switch was miswired. The reason for replaceing switch was that it was obviously bad, would not turn on fan or light, just felt spongy w/no click.
I feel certain the motor is fried, I just don’t want to smoke another if there is a malfunction in the control circuit. Any ideas?
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for JENN-AIR S136 | AppliancePartsPros.com
Here is a service manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16000446(ER001-00).pdf
Motor looks like it should be 120 volts.
Pull it as it should be labeled as to voltage.
Check it with a meter for continuity.
Not sure what it should be but should have continuity also check each connector to it’s case.
The wireing diagram helped a lot, but I’m still a little puzzled. With a volt meter reading @the motor power cord(motor unplugged), I read 110v from L1 to neutral w/the rocker switch on. With the oven turned on(this should also turn on motor) and switch off, I read 20v L1 to N. Here’s the kicker, w/both switch on and oven on, I read 230v L1 to N. I pulled off the ground wire from the lower element and found it to be hot. I surmise the ground wire is shorted to L2(not sure) putting 230v from L1 to N. , but wouldn’t this trip the breaker? Any ideas? Thanks again.
[COLOR=Blue][COLOR=black]Just to clarify, is the problem with the COOLING FAN?
It runs off the L2 side of the line
Or is it the BLOWER MOTOR which is off the L1 side.
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Its the exhaust motor.
OK, following is for Blower Motor upper left hand side of wiring diagram.
[COLOR=Blue]With a volt meter reading @the motor power cord(motor unplugged), I read 110v from L1 to neutral w/the rocker switch on. [/COLOR]
This looks OK. What is it with the rocker switch off?
[COLOR=Blue]With the oven turned on(this should also turn on motor) and switch off, I read 20v L1 to N. [/COLOR]
This is probably just ghost voltage, the true reading is probably 0 volts.
Cannot see how turning the oven on will turn the fan on, as it is connected in with the surface elements not the oven.
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Here’s the kicker, w/both switch on and oven on, I read 230v L1 to N[/COLOR].
Is this reading across the blower motor or is it at L1.
[COLOR=Blue]I pulled off the ground wire from the lower element and found it to be hot.[/COLOR]
I am missing something here. There should not be a grounded wire at the element. It should run between L1 and L2, of coarse with thermostats also in this circuit path.
[COLOR=Blue]I surmise the ground wire is shorted to L2(not sure) putting 230v from L1 to N. , but wouldn’t this trip the breaker?[/COLOR]
No, as long as there is a device to drop the voltage between these two points it will not blow a breaker.
Did this unit ever run correctly or is it new to you?
I don’t recall the voltage w/nothing on. 230v read from L1 to N at the power cord to motor (motor out of circuit). The same opening in back of oven (where L1 and L2 feed lower element) also has a green wire coming out going to screw on the frame along w/another green wire. This oven was purchased from an acquaintance who wouldn’t lie (could have forgotten). Said he used it for a month or so till he closed on his house and moved in his own appliances, said it worked fine in all modes.
[COLOR=Blue]This oven was purchased from an acquaintance[/COLOR]
Sorry!!! hvach3-1 if I took my head out of my you know what I would have noticed this was stated in your first post.
I assume you have already checked the unit over for a loose connection or a wire that has shorted to the frame.
I would say you have a wiring problem somewhere.
So now the trick is trying to isolate it.
Might be an idea to check the wiring at the switch just to make sure it matches the wiring diagram.
Next I would unplug the stove top inserts. Do not know what you have.
Do you have 4 elements or two elements and a grill etc.?
Now try measuring the voltage at the blower plug as you did earlier.
Next unplug the unit and remove the wires from the oven elements with the elements in place. Sometimes elements can short to ground where they touch the frame re: support legs etc.
Then measure them for resistance both should be around 20 ohms.
Now measure from the elements connector to the frame should be infinite.
I find it very strange that the oven is affecting the blower.
I was mistaking the grill for the bake element. The fan is supposed to come on w/the grill. I checked the house power, correct. I then checked the power @the terminal block w/the fan plugged in, correct. I then checked power again w/fan rocker switch on, 120v L1 to N, 120v L2 to N, 230v L1 to L2. Now when I turn on the oven, I get L1 to N nothing, and L2 to N 230v. What in the world? Well any way I’ve given up and dumped the stupid thing. There’s no way you can think of that this could be a house wiring problem is there? I checked power @ the receptical w/the cord unplugged, I also checked that the cord was properly wired.
[COLOR=Blue]There’s no way you can think of that this could be a house wiring problem is there?[/COLOR]
I would doubt it because everything is OK till you turn the oven on.
There is something that is wired wrong or shorted out.
One way to trouble shoot this is by disconnecting different things like the bake element etc. and continually checking the power till it checks OK.
Then it has something to do with the last device you disconnected.
I will sit down and take another look to see if I can figure out a possible cause.
Is this a 3 wire or a 4 wire electrical hook up?
hvach3-1,
Check all infinite switches. Make sure the Black wire is connected to the “L1” terminals and the Red wire is connected to the “L2” terminal for all switches.
Double check the wiring for the rocker switch. There are two pairs of contacts. Using an Ohmmeter, find which pair is closed in each position of the switch. Make sure that the black wire and two blue wires are connected to one (blower) pair and the two white wires and two brown wires are connected to another (oven light) pair. The picture attached.
Gene.
Rocker switch S136.pdf (17.8 KB)
It’s a three wire setup. Thanks for all your time, but notice I junked this stove, no joke. Thanks again.
Dumped the stove and purchased a 2 year old one. Removed the back cover, plugged in stove, checked voltage @ terminal block on stove, 220v L2 to N. Went to breaker panel and traced out N, It was just stuck on the screw, not tightened at all. Tightened up and all is well. Read correct voltage @ recepticle, I guess when a load was applied the N couldn’t carry it and L1 back fed. I don’t totaly understand it, but that’s the low down. Thought it might help someone out in the future. Thanks again to those who tried to help me.
Thank you for letting us know.
Am always interested in the weird, pain in the rump problems and solutions.
Can never tell when something like this will plague someone else.
By the way CONGRATS on finding it.