Infinite Switches are sparking

Oven/Range/Cooktop Repair
1

We have a MayTag electric range with the ceramic top. I will provide the part number when I get off as well as a video of what we have happening.

For now,

We purchased our house in Dec 2011 and it was built in 1992. The original oven/range was a 3 prong. We brought our own appliances and installed them all and the oven was a 4 prong. I went and purchased the 3 prong cord and the ground green wire to bridge to the neutral white. Stove and all works fine but we had to replace the 2 big infinite switches because they arcing and sparking when turning on and off. If we removed our hand quickly and let it pop out to turn off it would spark, but if we slowly backed off, it would not do it as much. Anyways we replaced them and they are working better but they still do it.

Now the two back smaller burners we did not replace but they are popping and sparking the same.

My question is could going from the 4 prong to the 3 prong have changed the way the range works? I don’t want to keep spending $30+ for each of these infinite switches. Could it be a fuse or something else or the main power source feeding too much power or not enough or what?

Like I said they work but the back 2 are giving the most issues. Especially when the range dims and powers back up. It almost sounds like a small sizzle like you can hear the current jumping back and forth to the connectors.

ALL help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

2

Sounds like you have a harness or electrical issue with your hookup…black to black…red to red…white to white…green to the chasis…adding a ground will never hurt a unit but not wiring it up properly…Check at the wall receptacle see if you have wires mixed around take voltage readings…black to white 120v…black to ground 120v…red to white 120v…red to ground 120v…black to red 240v…if you do not have these readings at the receptacle you’re having a problem coming from your panel or in your wires for the house…Infinite switches are infamous for burning out it’s not a rare thing they’re cheaply made…but i’d suspect a bad wireup at the junction or supply feed…if that isn’t your problem tear off the back and start ohming out your power wires coming off the junction going to the switches. Make sure you don’t have cracks or bad connections…also at the switch L1 and L2 are your hot leads coming in H1 and H2 are your power going out to the elements and P is usually for a heat surface light in most situations if your unit has them…Good luck.