Inconsistent temps in GE fridge

Refrigerator & Freezer Repair
1

Brand:GE
Model Number:DFE28JMKHES
Main Symptom:temps are different in the fridge. Cooler on bottom slide draws and warmer on top.
What happens & when:Causes ice to build up on bottom drawer of fridge.

Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:

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GE Refrigerator DFE28JMKHES – Diagnosing Erratic Temperatures and Ice Under the Bottom Refrigerator Shelf

Parts being considered:

With erratic refrigerator temperatures and ice accumulating underneath the bottom refrigerator shelf, I would first suspect either a clogged fresh food evaporator defrost drain or a fresh food evaporator defrost failure.

Both can cause ice buildup, but they require different repairs. Before replacing either part, we need to determine where the ice is coming from.

Step 1 – Check the frost pattern

Remove the crisper drawers and inspect the rear wall and bottom of the fresh food compartment.

  • Ice mainly underneath the drawers: This points toward a clogged or frozen defrost drain. Defrost water may be overflowing into the refrigerator instead of draining away.
  • Heavy frost or snow across the rear evaporator cover: This suggests the evaporator may not be defrosting properly.
  • Erratic temperatures with little visible frost: Check the evaporator fan, thermistors, and airflow before assuming a defrost problem.

A frozen evaporator can restrict airflow and cause temperatures to rise even though the refrigerator is still running.

Step 2 – Access the fresh food evaporator

  1. Unplug the refrigerator.
  2. Remove the lower shelves and crisper drawers.
  3. Remove the drawer supports and any trim or fasteners blocking access to the rear evaporator cover.
  4. Carefully release the evaporator cover, disconnecting the fan wiring as necessary.
  5. If the cover is frozen in place, allow the ice to thaw before removing it. Do not force it.

The fresh food evaporator, defrost heater, drain trough, and thermostat are located behind this area. GE’s parts diagram confirms both WR51X10132 and WR50X10108 for this model.

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DFE28JMKHES

Step 3 – Check and clear the defrost drain

With the evaporator exposed, inspect the drain trough underneath the coils.

  1. Look for a solid sheet of ice covering the drain opening.
  2. Melt the ice using warm water and towels. Avoid sharp tools and excessive heat.
  3. Once the opening is exposed, slowly pour warm water into the trough.
  4. Verify that the water drains into the condensate pan underneath the refrigerator.
  5. If water backs up, clear the drain using warm water and a flexible plastic tube.
  6. Inspect the drain tube outlet for sludge or other restrictions.

Important: This model also lists a separate fresh food conduction heater, WR51X10133, and drain trough WR17X13091. If the drain repeatedly freezes while the evaporator otherwise defrosts normally, inspect the drain-area heater and its positioning rather than automatically replacing the main defrost heater.

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Step 4 – Test defrost heater WR51X10132

Refrigerator fresh food defrost heater - WR51X10132 - GE Appliances

WR51X10132 – Fresh Food Defrost Heater

This heater melts frost from the refrigerator evaporator during defrost.

GE diagram position 761

With the refrigerator unplugged:

  1. Disconnect the heater from the wiring harness.
  2. Set the multimeter to resistance (Ω).
  3. Place one probe on each heater terminal.
  4. Look for a finite resistance reading indicating continuity.
  5. An OL or open reading indicates a failed heater.

The exact acceptable resistance should be checked against the unit’s technical specifications. A resistance reading alone does not confirm that the control is supplying power during defrost.

Step 5 – Test defrost thermostat WR50X10108

Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat for GE | McCombs Supply | WR50X10108

WR50X10108 – Fresh Food Defrost Safety Thermostat

This is the replacement for original part WR50X10109. GE identifies it as a 140°F safety thermostat.

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DFE28JMKHES

GE diagram position 240

  1. Unplug the refrigerator and isolate the thermostat from the circuit.
  2. Keep the thermostat cold, preferably attached to a frosted evaporator.
  3. Set the meter to continuity or resistance.
  4. Check across the thermostat terminals.

This is a high-temperature safety thermostat, so do not assume that it should open at ordinary room temperature. It may still show continuity when warm. An open reading while the thermostat is cold is suspicious, but confirm the specification before condemning it.

Step 6 – Check the evaporator fan and thermistor

If the heater and thermostat test correctly, inspect the fresh food evaporator fan and temperature sensor.

The parts diagram identifies:

  • WR60X35205 – Replacement fresh food evaporator fan.
  • WR55X10025 – Replacement temperature sensor.

A failing fan can cause uneven temperatures, while an inaccurate evaporator thermistor can interfere with defrost operation.

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DFE28JMKHES

Diagnostic decision guide

Finding Likely problem Recommended repair
Ice only in drain trough or under drawers Frozen or clogged drain Clear drain and inspect drain-area heater
Evaporator completely covered in heavy frost Defrost failure Test WR51X10132, WR50X10108, thermistor, and control
Heater measures OL Open heater Replace WR51X10132
Safety thermostat open when cold Possible failed thermostat Verify specification and replace if defective
Evaporator clear but temperatures fluctuate Fan, sensor, or airflow problem Test fan and thermistors

My recommendation

I would start by opening the fresh food evaporator compartment and checking the drain trough before ordering parts.

The ice under the bottom shelf strongly suggests water is not draining properly. However, the erratic temperatures raise the possibility that the evaporator is also icing over and restricting airflow.

After clearing any ice, verify the drain is open, test the heater and safety thermostat, and confirm the evaporator fan operates properly. Reassemble the refrigerator with all foam seals correctly positioned, then monitor temperatures for 24–48 hours. Aim for approximately 37°F in the refrigerator and 0°F in the freezer.

One important question: When you remove the bottom crisper drawers, is the ice mainly forming on the floor underneath them, or is there also a heavy buildup of frost on the rear wall of the refrigerator?

That distinction will help determine whether to concentrate on the drain system or the evaporator defrost circuit.

3

Probably a bad defrosting heat element. Result is an ice build-up around the internal condenser and fan and this will vary the cooling efficiency as the ice builds up and melts. While I waited for a new heating element, I used a hair dryer to melt the ice build-up. Most commonly, this stuff is on the back wall of the freezer compartment. Remove the panel and that’s where you will find the ice build-up. You might only have to blow it once a day as it takes time for the ice to build up.