Brand: Whirlpool
Model Number:MSC21C6MFZ00
Main Symptom:won’t make ice
What happens & when: water comes out water dispenser on outside of door. So water is on and working. Ice make switch is on. But will not make ice.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried:
Photos / video link:
Since the water dispenser is working, we know the refrigerator has a water supply, but the ice maker uses a separate section of the dual water inlet valve. My first suspicion would also be the ice maker side of the water valve before replacing the ice maker itself.
Here are the tests I would recommend:
Verify the ice maker is sending power to the water valve.
Allow the ice maker to enter the harvest cycle, or manually initiate a harvest if your model supports it.
When the harvest reaches the fill portion of the cycle, use a multimeter to check for 120 VAC at the ice maker water valve solenoid.
120 VAC present but no water enters the ice maker: The valve is likely faulty or restricted and should be replaced.
No voltage present: The problem is more likely with the ice maker or its wiring rather than the valve.
Test the water valve flow.
Disconnect the water line that runs from the valve to the ice maker.
Briefly energize the ice maker side of the valve with 120 VAC (only if you’re comfortable working with live voltage).
You should get a strong stream of water. A weak flow or no flow indicates the valve is restricted or has failed.
Inspect the ice maker fill tube.
Follow the water tube where it enters the freezer and fills the ice mold.
Make sure the fill tube is not frozen shut. A frozen fill tube can prevent water from reaching the ice maker even if the valve is operating correctly.
If you find ice in the tube, thaw it completely and inspect the valve carefully, as a valve that seeps when closed is a common cause of the tube freezing.
Let us know what you find—specifically whether the valve receives 120 VAC during the fill cycle and whether you get good water flow when the valve is energized. That will narrow the diagnosis down quickly.
We hooked 110 to the icemaker water valve it had a strong stream of water.
Not sure how to get it in harvest mode.
Blew out the line from valve to ice maker and is clear.
Any suggestions? No noise is coming from ice maker at all
For the Maytag MSC21C6MFZ00, the ice maker uses a modular ice maker and does not have a user-accessible electronic “Harvest Ice Mode” through the dispenser controls. If you want to force a harvest cycle, you have two options:
Some replacement ice makers have a small TEST button on the underside or front of the module.
Remove the ice bin.
Locate the TEST/RESET button.
Press and hold it for about 3 seconds.
The ejector fingers should begin rotating, harvest the ice, return to the home position, and then call for water. The harvest cycle warms the mold briefly with the heater before the ejector motor rotates the fingers to release the cubes.
If your ice maker does not have a test button, you can initiate a harvest cycle by jumping terminals T and H on the ice maker module.
Live Power Warning: This procedure is performed with 120 VAC present. Extreme care must be taken to avoid electric shock. If you’re not comfortable working around live voltage, do not perform this test.
Remove the front cover from the ice maker.
Use an insulated jumper wire to momentarily connect T and H.
Once the motor starts moving, remove the jumper.
The ice maker should complete the harvest cycle automatically, then energize the water valve for a fill if everything is operating normally.
I do not think this model has either of those opinions. No t and h holes to jump.
What parts do you think I would need to get this going
Yeah after doing a little more research I see that the type of icemaker ( Whirlpool W10873791 Refrigerator Ice Maker Assembly | Genuine OEM Part ) you have doesn’t have those options like you said. And with my experience I would suggest replacing the icemaker since there are no serviceable parts to the icemaker assembly
Can you buy the wiring harness that goes to the ice maker, out underneath the freezer door, and clips in underneath the fridge? all the wires were cut right there I amended them back together but was wondering if there was a replacement harness
Whirlpool W10838084 Refrigerator Wire Harness | Genuine OEM Part is that the one you need?
No this one has about 10 wires in it. Comes out underneath the freezer door and clips in underneath the refrigerator
The Ice maker makes about one cycle ever 24 hours, Has plenty of water pressure in dispenser.
Hi there! If your Maytag refrigerator, model MSC21C6MFZ00, is only making one batch of ice every 24 hours, something is definitely slowing down the ice-making process.
Since you’re getting good water pressure at the dispenser, I wouldn’t replace the water inlet valve just yet. The dispenser and ice maker use different water paths, so good dispenser pressure doesn’t completely rule out a water supply issue.
I’d start with a few simple checks before replacing any parts.
This is the most important test.
Even if everything feels frozen, the freezer could still be too warm for normal ice production.
Look at the ice mold after it completes a harvest.
Remove the ice bin and check that the ice maker is switched on, the ejector mechanism isn’t jammed, and the ice-level sensing mechanism isn’t obstructed.
This model also has a Fast Ice feature that you can activate through the OPTIONS button. It can help increase production, but it won’t correct a failed component.
ManualsFile
+1
If the freezer is holding around 0°F, the mold fills with normal-sized cubes, and the ice maker simply waits many hours before harvesting, I would suspect the ice maker assembly or its temperature-sensing system.
I would check those before considering the refrigerator’s main control board.
Those two answers will help narrow this down considerably. If the cubes are normal and the freezer is at 0°F, we can focus on why the ice maker isn’t cycling rather than spending money on a water valve you may not need.