My freezer door was left open over the weekend for two days and when I came home there was a puddle of water under the fridge. After removing the bad food from the freezer I noticed that the GFI circuit it was on was tripped.
Trying to reset it I heard the ice maker trying to fill, so I truned the ice maker off and the fridge and freezer work fine again.
I took the ice maker off and apart and it appeared to not have any water or residue from anything melting inside the maker but to you have any ideas of what to look for next? As soon as it calls for ice again it trips the GFI.
Serial #LL216319
On a side note for a while it has also made a whislting sound while running and it sounds like it coming from the evap fan. Any thoughts on that?
[quote=gutter;493631]My freezer door was left open over the weekend for two days and when I came home there was a puddle of water under the fridge. After removing the bad food from the freezer I noticed that the GFI circuit it was on was tripped.
Trying to reset it I heard the ice maker trying to fill, so I truned the ice maker off and the fridge and freezer work fine again.
I took the ice maker off and apart and it appeared to not have any water or residue from anything melting inside the maker but to you have any ideas of what to look for next? As soon as it calls for ice again it trips the GFI.
Serial #LL216319
On a side note for a while it has also made a whislting sound while running and it sounds like it coming from the evap fan. Any thoughts on that?[/quote]
Gutter,
I can’t help but think, you have a problem in the ice maker ontrol module,
Here’s a way to check, Run the service diagnostic test and see if the GFI opens.
If it opens, disconnect the wires from the icemaker solenoid of the water inlet valve on the back of the machine, and re run the test. If the GFI opens, we have a bad control in the module, or a pinched / shorted wire. If the GFI does not open, we have a shorted water inlet solenoid.
[FONT=Arial][LEFT]Service Diagnostics[/LEFT] [/FONT][LEFT]During the first 15 seconds that power
is first applied to the icemaker, the Service
Diagnostic Test mode may be entered. The
service mode is entered by pushing the feeler
arm from the “out” position to the “in” [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]position
and back again 3 times and only 3 times within[/LEFT]
15 seconds.
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][LEFT]The service diagnostic mode consists
of a harvest cycle followed by a water fill. The
harvest cycle is entered immediately, regardless[/LEFT]
of icemaker temperature or arm position.
Either way, you’ll be up and running in no time.
Good Luck,
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
I can’t seem to enter the Service Diagnostic mode, however, I think I have narrowed it down to the fill valve.
When I turn the icemaker on, the GFI doesn’t trip right away; the harvest cycle will complete without a problem, and trips during or after the fill cycle completes (not sure if it completes, but there is at least some water in the ice tray when it trips)
Sounds to me like a bad fill valve, but I want to be sure. Can someone confirm or point me somewhere else?
[QUOTE=aggieemt;907109]I can’t seem to enter the Service Diagnostic mode, however, I think I have narrowed it down to the fill valve.
When I turn the icemaker on, the GFI doesn’t trip right away; the harvest cycle will complete without a problem, and trips during or after the fill cycle completes (not sure if it completes, but there is at least some water in the ice tray when it trips)
Sounds to me like a bad fill valve, but I want to be sure. Can someone confirm or point me somewhere else?
Whirlpool GD5HAXTL01[/QUOTE]
aggieemt, Your refrigerator is a different brand, so the posted service information is a bit different. But the procedure is very similar. In your case you will need a piece of 14 gauge wire a couple of inches long, remove about 1/2 to 3/4 inch on both ends of the insulation. Disconnect the tan and white wire from the fill valve. Open the freezer door and tape the door switch down. Access the front of the ice maker and remove the cover. Insert one end of the jumper wire into the opening labeled “T” and the other end of the wire into the opening labeled “H” and hold them there until the arm rotates to the 9 o’clock position. Allow the ice maker to rotate until it reaches the 3 o’clock position. If it rotates through the complete cycle, the fill valve has failed. If the short occurs and trips the GFI, then the problem would be in the control head and or wiring to the fill valve.
The arm rotated to about 7:00, and I tipped the unit to help get the partially frozen cubes out, and now it won’t continue the rotation, even with it still jumpered.
I might not have been clear in my first post… it trips the GFI immediately after filling the tray (or in less time than it takes to start freezing the new batch of ice after a harvest cycle).
With the unit jumpered and the full valve disconnected, it won’t rotate past 7:00 and it doesn’t trip the GFI.
When I reassembled everything, the bar continued to rotate, it filled, and is now freezing without tripping the GFI.
Does that give you enough info to point to a problem?
[QUOTE=aggieemt;907143]The arm rotated to about 7:00, and I tipped the unit to help get the partially frozen cubes out, and now it won’t continue the rotation, even with it still jumpered.
I might not have been clear in my first post… it trips the GFI immediately after filling the tray (or in less time than it takes to start freezing the new batch of ice after a harvest cycle).
With the unit jumpered and the full valve disconnected, it won’t rotate past 7:00 and it doesn’t trip the GFI.
When I reassembled everything, the bar continued to rotate, it filled, and is now freezing without tripping the GFI.
Does that give you enough info to point to a problem?[/QUOTE]
Aggieemt, Now it sounds like you have a faulty mold heater or thermostat ?
Let’s do it like this. When the rake arm reaches the 1 or 2 o’clock position, the cycle has ended, and the ice maker mold should have filled with water. When you insert the jumper wire, and the arm rotates, when it reaches the 2 o’clock position, the thermostat is closed and the heater is on. At the 4 o’clock position, the rake arm will “stall” on the cubes until the heater “loosens” the cubes from the mold, then will rotate to the 7 o’clock position, the thermostat opens and turns off the heater. The arm will rotate and dislodge the cubes and they should slide down the cover and fall into the ice bin. At the 11 o’clock position, the water valve is energized and fills the ice maker mold, then the arm rotates to the 1 or 2 o/clock position and the cubes start to freeze, when the thermostat in the mold reaches 14 to 15 dgrs. the thermostat closes and the cycle should start all over again.
If you have a multi meter, insert the meter probes into the openings “T” and “H” you should read an open circuit, unless the temperature is less than 10 to 14 dgrs. Then insert the meter probes into the “L” and “H” openings, you should have a resistance reading of 70 to 80 ohms. (Make sure you remove power to the refrigerator first). Let us know what you find.
[QUOTE=aggieemt;907143]The arm rotated to about 7:00, and I tipped the unit to help get the partially frozen cubes out, and now it won’t continue the rotation, even with it still jumpered.
I might not have been clear in my first post… it trips the GFI immediately after filling the tray (or in less time than it takes to start freezing the new batch of ice after a harvest cycle).
With the unit jumpered and the full valve disconnected, it won’t rotate past 7:00 and it doesn’t trip the GFI.
When I reassembled everything, the bar continued to rotate, it filled, and is now freezing without tripping the GFI.
Does that give you enough info to point to a problem?[/QUOTE]
Aggieemt, Now it sounds like you have a faulty mold heater or thermostat ?
Let’s do it like this. When the rake arm reaches the 1 or 2 o’clock position, the cycle has ended, and the ice maker mold should have filled with water. When you insert the jumper wire, and the arm rotates, when it reaches the 2 o’clock position, the thermostat is closed and the heater is on. At the 4 o’clock position, the rake arm will “stall” on the cubes until the heater “loosens” the cubes from the mold, then will rotate to the 7 o’clock position, the thermostat opens and turns off the heater. The arm will rotate and dislodge the cubes and they should slide down the cover and fall into the ice bin. At the 11 o’clock position, the water valve is energized and fills the ice maker mold, then the rotates to the 1 or 2 o/clock position and the cubes start to freezer, when the thermostat in the mold reaches 14 to 15 dgrs. the thermostat closes and the cycle should start all over again.
If you have a multi meter, insert the meter probes into the openings “T” and “H” you should read an open circuit, unless the temperature is less than 10 to 14 dgrs. Then insert the meter probes into the “L” and “H” openings, you should have a resistance reading of 70 to 80 ohms. (Make sure you remove power to the refrigerator first). Let us know what you find.
OK, the circuit from T to H is closed, and resistance across L and H is normal. You referenced the temp of 10-14 degrees… I’m not sure what the temp inside the freezer is, as I’m working on it as the freezer is still in service.
Today I happened to catch the ice maker at the end of the cycle: I taped down both door switches and watched as the arm rotated through a complete revolution to the 1:00 position to dump ice, then filled the trays. Knowing this was where it typically trips the GFI, I stood and watched for 2+ minutes waiting for it to trip, but it never would. I closed the door to leave and the GFI immediately tripped. Opened the door, reset the breaker, and the breaker stayed closed until I shut the door, and it immediately opened again. Repeated this 3-4 times to make sure it wasn’t random timing.
Turned off the icemaker switch, reset the GFI, and I can open and close the door all day long and it won’t trip.
So, it seems that it has something to do with a process at the beginning of a cycle that only occurs when the door is closed…
And tonight it completed 2 full cycles without tripping the GFI. I’m thinking maybe there are gremlins in it…
[QUOTE=aggieemt;907175]OK, the circuit from T to H is closed, and resistance across L and H is normal. You referenced the temp of 10-14 degrees… I’m not sure what the temp inside the freezer is, as I’m working on it as the freezer is still in service.
Today I happened to catch the ice maker at the end of the cycle: I taped down both door switches and watched as the arm rotated through a complete revolution to the 1:00 position to dump ice, then filled the trays. Knowing this was where it typically trips the GFI, I stood and watched for 2+ minutes waiting for it to trip, but it never would. I closed the door to leave and the GFI immediately tripped. Opened the door, reset the breaker, and the breaker stayed closed until I shut the door, and it immediately opened again. Repeated this 3-4 times to make sure it wasn’t random timing.
Turned off the icemaker switch, reset the GFI, and I can open and close the door all day long and it won’t trip.
So, it seems that it has something to do with a process at the beginning of a cycle that only occurs when the door is closed…
And tonight it completed 2 full cycles without tripping the GFI. I’m thinking maybe there are gremlins in it…[/QUOTE]
Aggieemt , Reviewed the posts and realized we didn’t recommend the first and easiest check. Remove the lower kick plate and hinge cover, and check the wiring harness and connector at the door hinge. You may want to remove the door to be extra thorough. The harness in the bottom of the door and hinge can fray and break causing intermittent or erratic operation of the dispenser assembly.
[QUOTE=aggieemt;907203]Ice maker ran all night without tripping the breaker… I’ll check the lower harness, but there has been no problem with the in-door dispenser…[/QUOTE]
aggieemt, OK, I guess … We can wait and see at this point ???
I went for about two weeks without the GFI tripping, but now it’s back to doing it again. I didn’t check the lower harness, but I’m not quite sure how that would cause it to trip, when the problem is isolated by turning off the icemaker switch.
I’m fairly certain it has to do with whatever process occurs a few minutes after the ice tray fills with water, as that’s when it trips. Being that it only trips a GFI, and it doesn’t trip the breaker when the fridge is plugged into a regular outlet further points to water getting in something it shouldn’t.
Something else interesting to note: I have noticed that an icicle forms under the ice tray… during the last two weeks that the GFI didn’t trip the icicle wasn’t there, but it has started forming again.
Is it possible that the fill valve stays open a bit too long, which causes the trays to overflow and trips the GFI?
[QUOTE=aggieemt;907835]I went for about two weeks without the GFI tripping, but now it’s back to doing it again. I didn’t check the lower harness, but I’m not quite sure how that would cause it to trip, when the problem is isolated by turning off the icemaker switch.
I’m fairly certain it has to do with whatever process occurs a few minutes after the ice tray fills with water, as that’s when it trips. Being that it only trips a GFI, and it doesn’t trip the breaker when the fridge is plugged into a regular outlet further points to water getting in something it shouldn’t.
Something else interesting to note: I have noticed that an icicle forms under the ice tray… during the last two weeks that the GFI didn’t trip the icicle wasn’t there, but it has started forming again.
Is it possible that the fill valve stays open a bit too long, which causes the trays to overflow and trips the GFI?[/QUOTE]
Aggieemt, Yes, it’s possible for a fill valve to have a slow reacting solenoid or diaphragm. First check to make sure the water filter isn’t dirty and has been replaced recently. Then check to make sure the refrigerator is level, then check to make sure the ice maker is level(in both directions) inside the freezer compartment. If all’s OK, then replace the fill valve.
Unit hasn’t been moved since everything worked correctly, and I replaced the filter and GFI still trips. About to order the fill valve. Can you confirm this is the one I need:
[QUOTE=aggieemt;908277]Unit hasn’t been moved since everything worked correctly, and I replaced the filter and GFI still trips. About to order the fill valve. Can you confirm this is the one I need: GD5SHAXLT01
[QUOTE=aggieemt;908502]Replaced the inlet valve, and didn’t fix the problem…
what do you suggest I try next, and what is the process for obtaining a return authorization for this valve?[/QUOTE]
Agggieemt, To return the fill valve, you can contact the AppliancePartsPros.com Customer Service Team (1-877-477-7278) They will be happy to assist you in the return policy and procedure. You can also enter the AppliancePartsPros.com web site, enter the parts order screen, and scroll to the bottom of the page. Under the “Customer Service” heading you’ll see “returns”. Click on the heading, the system will advance to the cancellation and return policy screen, click on the return header ( light colored box) and follow the instructions.
What to do next ? Check and find out what other circuits, components and machinery are attached to the same GFI outlet, You may want to get a GFI outlet with a higher rated amp rating. Replace the GFI outlet with a “standard” 120 VAC/60 Hz., grounded and polarized outlet. If codes require you to have a GFI outlet, Replace the outlet with a higher rated outlet and make sure the circuit is a “dedicated” circuit for the refrigerator only.
[QUOTE=aggieemt;908510]There is nothing else on that circuit, and we have lived in this (brand new) house for six months without a problem… that’s the confusing part.[/QUOTE]
Aggieemt, Don’ know where to take you from here. Other than an amp check with a clamp on ammeter. That could eliminate the refrigerator as the problem. Turn on or plug the refrigerator into the outlet, wait a few minutes, place the ammeter claw around one of the wires to the compressor, you should read approx. 1 to 2 amps, once the system equalizes. The test start the ice maker. When the arm reaches the 2 o’clock position the heater energizes and draws 1 to 1.5 amps, the amps will drop when the arm reaches the 7 o’clock position and the cubes start to rotate up and out of the mold. When the arm reaches the 11 to 12 o’clock position the fill valve should energize and draw less than one(1) amp. So you’re highest amp draw should be less than a total of 5 amps. Most GFI outlets are rated at 14 amps or less, which is one of the reasons why they aren’t recommended for a refrigerator circuit . " Being that it only trips a GFI, and it doesn’t trip the breaker when the fridge is plugged into a regular outlet " also indicates the problem is the outlet or circuit, not the refrigerator.
