My ice maker just quit working out on the blue. The refer has ice and water in the door and the water works fine. Could you please assist me? Thanks, Scott
Hi Scott,
The first thing I would do: check if the shut off arm is in down position.
Then remove the head cover and check for 120V between the “L” & “N” test points.
If there is 120V - short the “T” & “H” with an insulated piece of wire to run the motor.
If the motor does not run - replace the module assembly or the whole ice maker.
If the motor runs - replace the thermostat.
Leave the jumper wire in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.
Post your findings and I will provide the right part number(s).
Gene.
I found the water in the supply line in the top of the freezer to be froze. After thawing out wvwerything worked great. Thanks.
I did break the swing door on the inside left of the fridge that closes when the freezer door is closed, if you could help me with the part # that I can order. Thanks again.
Good job!
The part number for the flipper is AP3037562
[CENTER]The flipper
[/CENTER]
[LEFT]Gene.[/LEFT]
[QUOTE=Gene;16987]Hi Scott,
The first thing I would do: check if the shut off arm is in down position.
Then remove the head cover and check for 120V between the “L” & “N” test points.
If there is 120V - short the “T” & “H” with an insulated piece of wire to run the motor.
If the motor does not run - replace the module assembly or the whole ice maker.
If the motor runs - replace the thermostat.
Leave the jumper wire in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.
Post your findings and I will provide the right part number(s).
Gene.[/QUOTE]
Gene,
ran 115 VAC through the solenoid valve and the ice tray filled and kept filling until power was removed. Waiting to see if ice is ejected into tray.
bg
my particular problem was related to the valve in the back on the bottom.I removed the hoses and checked the electrical connections and blew out the valve and lines and re-aasembled. After that everything worked well.All that I could figure is that there was some type of restriction and what I did corrected it. It has been working fine for about 6 months now.
R2 The Ice Maker Assy And Works Fine Now.
Thanks For The Assist.
Regards/bg
We are glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;16987]Hi Scott,
The first thing I would do: check if the shut off arm is in down position.
Then remove the head cover and check for 120V between the “L” & “N” test points.
If there is 120V - short the “T” & “H” with an insulated piece of wire to run the motor.
If the motor does not run - replace the module assembly or the whole ice maker.
If the motor runs - replace the thermostat.
Leave the jumper wire in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.
Post your findings and I will provide the right part number(s).
Gene.[/quote]
I have a whirlpool GS6SHAXLS03 and my ice maker quit working (water feeds fine from the water dispenser). I followed the above instructions and am getting 35.5 VAC from the L/N connection. However, I do not know what the “shut off arm” is referring to. Do I just need a new motor then? Thank you for your help
Shut off arm is a metal wire arm on the right side of the ice maker which can be moved up to turn the ice maker “off” or down to turn it “on”.
In your model there is an “on-off” switch on the right side on the wall. If the ice maker is “on” then it looks like there is no power to it. In such situation the problem most likely is a bad optics (#26 & #38 on the diagram)
- The part number for the optics board kit is AP3137510
Gene.
[quote=Gene;99533]Shut off arm is a metal wire arm on the right side of the ice maker which can be moved up to turn the ice maker “off” or down to turn it “on”.
In your model there is an “on-off” switch on the right side on the wall. If the ice maker is “on” then it looks like there is no power to it. In such situation the problem most likely is a bad optics (#26 & #38 on the diagram)
- The part number for the optics board kit is AP3137510
Gene.[/quote]
Great, at least I know I had it on. If it helps, the red light by the on/off switch gives two quick flashes every couple seconds, however I’ve found these error codes don’t usually mean much. On a side note, I bought a whirlpool range at about the same time and its control board died after only 3 years and that was almost $200 to replace (nearly half the price of the appliance). Does whirlpool stuff just suck? I always heard whirlpool was supposed to be a better brand, but is there a better one I should start buying?
Amana (Maytag) Model AFD2535FES
Ice maker shut off arm hanging attached at the rear only
Can see No broken parts anywhere
DH must have put the ice cream in the freezer last and put it in the icemaker bin causing the shut off arm to disconnect at the front of the ice maker when he shut the drawer. I need to reconnect the arm with your help.
#1 How does the bottom drawer come out??? I got the top tray out. I need to beable to lay on my back and see what is going on.
#2 I need a pic of the arm hook up at the front so I can figure how to get it back on. It is just flapping in the breeze right now. The ice maker doesn’t work either so there must be a switch or lever that needs to be flipped by the arm’s movement.
Thank in advance for ANY and ALL help. Dh just wants to buy ice but I like to have an ice maker!
Amana Model SRD25VPSE
I have this same issue. Checked the L&N and have 120V. Shorted T&H and the motor did not run.
Can you provide part numbers for the module/Ice maker?
Thanks in advance!
I would recommend to replace the whole ice maker because the ice makers repair rate of success is very low and many people ended up spend more money.
- The ice maker AP6016628
Gene.
[quote=Gene;139248]I would recommend to replace the whole ice maker because the ice makers repair rate of success is very low and many people ended up spend more money.
- The ice maker AP6016628
Gene.[/quote]
What’s the difference between the part number you listed and this one:
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Icemaker kit, replacement., part number: AP4135008
When I search by my model number, this is the one that comes up.
I may be having the same problem so I intend on taking your advise as it seems my Whirlpool has a water restricition to the ice maker. I’ll keep you guys apprised (whirlpool model ED5FHGXNQ00).
Best,
Rich
[quote=jblumenstein;139323]What’s the difference between the part number you listed and this one:
Part Details - WHIRLPOOL Icemaker kit, replacement., part number: AP4135008
When I search by my model number, this is the one that comes up.[/quote]
The only difference, which I believe is very important to you, is the price: $106.74 vs $61.14. Diagrams and part lists are provided by manufacturers, but sometime we can find a substitutes with much better prices and we trying to share this information with other people.
Gene.
I thought I would piggy back on the other posts.
Our ice maker is not working. It’s a Kenmore, model 106.71194101. It does not fill with water, although, when we fill it with water, it will make and dump the ice. I think I hear it going through cycles without water/ice. My husband has used the hair dryer on the water tube to thaw out any ice. Before we noticed it was not filling with water, it overfilled the tray and we had about 1/2 inch of water/ice on the bottom of the bucket that holds the ice. There were a couple of times that it seemed to be working very hard to turn the ice out of the tray.
What do you think?
Thank you for your help!
Sounds like the problem is a bad water inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator.
- The water inlet valve AP6007253
Gene.
That sounds about right.
Thank you!