Brand:Frigidaire Model Number:GLHS68EGSB5 Main Symptom:Not calling for water What happens & when: Bought new ice maker from Appliance Parts Pros, part#5303918344 (AP4299334) which worked fine until a few days ago. No water coming to ice maker. Have tested the solenoid by switching the solenoid suppling the ice maker to the water dispenser, with the signal from the water dispenser to cause the solenoid to open and supply water. Ice maching will manually cycle using the swith but never calls for water. Have shut down and retried multiple times and made sure nothing is froze up.
Error Code (if any):
Parts or tests already tried: See above.
Photos / video link:
Based on what you’ve already tested, the water valve itself and the water path to the ice maker are probably good. You proved the ice-maker solenoid will open and send water when you energize it using the dispenser circuit.
The important clue is that 5303918344 will manually cycle but never energizes the fill circuit. On this ice maker, the valve should be energized near the end of the harvest cycle for only several seconds. APP’s troubleshooting information likewise says that if the fill tube is clear and the valve receives no power during an ice-maker cycle, the problem points back toward the ice maker/control circuit.
However, GLHS68EGSB5 uses a diode arrangement in the water-valve circuit, so I would make one electrical test before replacing the new ice maker again. An open diode/harness can prevent the appropriate valve from energizing even though the valve itself works. APP specifically documents diode-harness failures on these Frigidaire side-by-side water systems.
Next test: Put your meter across the ice-maker valve coil and manually initiate an ice-maker cycle. Watch the meter all the way through the cycle, especially at the very end when it should fill.
Voltage appears for ~7 seconds but no water: investigate the valve/water circuit further.
No voltage at the valve: check the diode harness/wiring between the ice maker and valve.
Wiring/diode circuit checks good but the ice maker never outputs the fill voltage: the 5303918344 ice maker has failed, even though its motor will still manually cycle.
Given your testing, I would not buy another water valve at this point. The fault is much more likely in the ice maker’s fill contacts/control or the diode/wiring circuit supplying the valve. Since this 5303918344 was recently purchased from Appliance Parts Pros and worked normally before suddenly losing only the fill command, a defective replacement ice maker is certainly possible.
If you have a multimeter, I can also give you the exact wires/voltages to check on GLHS68EGSB5 so you can determine whether it’s the ice maker or diode harness before ordering anything.
Yes. On this Frigidaire setup you’re dealing with 115–120 VAC, not low-voltage DC. The factory schematic for this GLHS68 family shows the ice maker, main water valve, ice-maker water valve, and the two-diode arrangement.
Use caution: these are live 120-V tests. Keep the meter on AC volts and avoid shorting adjacent terminals.
1. Test power feeding the ice maker
At the ice-maker harness, identify the BLACK (line/hot) and LT BLUE (neutral) wires.
With the ice maker connected and refrigerator powered:
BLACK → LT BLUE = approximately 120 VAC
You should have this continuously when the ice maker is enabled.
If you don’t have ~120 VAC here, the new ice maker isn’t the problem—you’ve lost its supply.
2. Test the ice maker’s fill output
This is the most important test.
At the ice maker, the YELLOW wire is the fill-valve output circuit on this Frigidaire design. The schematic identifies Yellow along with the ice-maker/water-valve circuit and shows the diode arrangement feeding the valves.
Meter:
YELLOW → LT BLUE (neutral)
Start a manual harvest cycle.
Watch the meter all the way through the cycle. Near the end of harvest, when the ejector returns home, you should briefly see:
~120 VAC for roughly 7 seconds
If you get:
120 VAC here: The ice maker is calling for water. Move downstream to the diode/harness/valves.
0 VAC the entire cycle: Assuming BLACK → LT BLUE is ~120 VAC, the ice maker’s internal fill switch/contact is not closing. That strongly condemns the 5303918344.
3. Test directly at the ice-maker valve
Go to the triple water valve at the lower rear of the refrigerator.
Put the meter across the two terminals of the ice-maker valve coil—not from a terminal to chassis ground.
Run another manual ice-maker cycle.
At fill you want:
~120 VAC briefly
Your model originally used triple valve 240531101, now substituted by 242252702.
So the results become very useful:
Ice-maker YELLOW → neutral
At I/M valve coil
Meaning
~120 VAC
~120 VAC
Electrical command is good; look at valve/water flow
~120 VAC
0 VAC
Harness/diode circuit problem
0 VAC
0 VAC
Ice maker isn’t issuing fill command
Proper voltage + valve opens when externally powered
—
Valve itself is essentially proven good
4. Don’t overlook the main valve
This refrigerator’s plumbing is a little unusual. The service information says there are two diodes in the harness between the ice-maker/dispenser circuits and the water valves. If one of those diodes opens, the secondary valve can energize without the primary valve opening, resulting in no water.
Therefore, during the ice-maker’s fill period, check the main/primary water-valve coil too.
Meter directly across its two terminals.
You should see approximately:
120 VAC during the ice-maker fill period.
If the ice-maker valve receives 120 V but the main valve doesn’t, the diode/harness becomes the prime suspect.
Best sequence for your particular problem
Since you’ve already proven that the ice-maker valve physically works, I’d do only these three measurements:
A. BLACK → LT BLUE at ice maker:
Expected ~120 VAC continuously
B. YELLOW → LT BLUE at ice maker while manually cycling:
Expected ~120 VAC briefly at end of cycle
C. Across ice-maker valve coil at the same point:
Expected ~120 VAC briefly
The factory information specifically confirms this is a 115-V ice-maker system, and 5303918344 is the replacement used in this family.
If A = 120 V, B = 0 V, and the ice maker completes the entire mechanical harvest: stop there. I’d call the 5303918344 defective. The diode harness cannot prevent you from seeing the ice maker’s fill output at the ice maker itself.
If you give me the readings for A, B, and C, I can tell you which component has failed.