Brand: Samsung
Model Number: rf2cg5b10sraa
Main Symptom: no ice
What happens & when: no ice at all
Parts or tests already tried: defrosted fridge, removed ice maker and dried it
The fridge is brand new, a year old and out of warranty. it started producing less and less ice and i focused on the light frost that built up on bottom of the maker that i occasionally scraped off with a plastic scraper, then reset. Finally it stopped making ice, so i defrosted fridge for 2 hours, removed ice maker and dried it up. 24hrs and nothing yet.
The ice maker chimes when reset and the dispenser spins when i try to dispense ice.
I have not checked board, but i wonder if it could be the valve, an uncommon problem.
Im ready to get a new ice maker, model da97-18859a, but im not trying to spend over $150 on that model which is why im looking into the older but interchangeable model of DA97-15217D.
Ideas on checking valve or if i should just run with an ice maker replacement?
Hello Aloha357, when the ice maker goes through the reset function, does a hum occur at the end? Also, is the model number RF32CG5B10SRAA? If it is, the next step would be identifying if there is a seam in between the ice maker compartment and the fresh food liner that may have an air gap. An easy way to identify this would be to remove the ice bin and place a bright flashlight into it, shining light at the seam. If light is visible from the fresh food side of the seam, there is an air gap that would need to be addressed. Let me know what you find and we can go from there.
Thank you for getting back to me,
No, the part # of fridge is actually, RF27CG5B10SRAA
I seen the video online that caused a class action suit which got everybody a whole $50 because there was a gap in the casing causing major frost. I do not have that gap. They seem to have fixed that error in design as it was years ago and mine is only a year old.
Since my last post I was hoping that the leak I found in the piping going to the kitchen then to ice makers as I have a new and old fridge on the same line, was the culprit, but after 2 major holes in my floor to find a pinhole leak in my 1/2" copper line that I replaced with pex, same problem. Mind you the ice maker was working less and less before the leak appeared and online maker conti used working even after the leak with whatever pressure was in the system. Since then I have also installed a pressure gauge on ice maker line and I get 60psi when system is fully pressurized and the lowest is about 30psi. Pressure issue eliminated.
When I trigger the reset I don’t hear a humming noise, just what I think is the ice maker trying to defrost the tray as a crackling noise.
I thought it was a frost issue, but I’m ruling that out as there’s no frost. I know it turns as the button to dispense works and I’ve seen the device in different positions. Water dispenses, so we know its getting water and filter is new.
I want to know if there’s a way to initiate water valve to see if its clogged as i removed ice maker just now and there was two? cubes in it. Since I removed ice maker, I’m getting the c14 code and I was thinking of leaving bowl there to see if it just starts dispensing water, but I imagine the system won’t trigger w.o an icemaker present.
I need to solve for:
- valve works
- clog in line which can be solved if I can trigger valve
My options are to buy an ice maker and try it, but its a last resort as i might not be able to return and yet I’m not sure it’s getting water.
I need simple tempts before I go the random distance. I can’t imagine the board is bad unless it also controls the valve of which it might.
If the valve is bad, can it be replaced? Other option is the board.
That’s my update.
I have an update, I was about to rip orange line out of fridge, reinstall ice maker and place hose in bucket so that if it fills, let it spill into a bucket, but then i thought of just installing a gauge on the orange water line to monitor pressure. I did just that and reset ice maker. I just heard icemaker try and send water to maker and no pressure at all. I will continue monitoring it to see if it ever builds up lressure. If it does not, what is my move if water isn’t getting through when I mentioned water makesit to dispenser? I tried looking behind lower panel for valve,but no luck and I believe its cause valve may be somewhere inside fridge behind water filter as lines go into fridge midway.
I’m thinking clog or valve is busted?
3rd update, I just opened ice bucket and there was ice in there. Almost looked like full cubes. The ice maker tried send water a 2nd time and I seen the water go down from the clear tube as I see it inches away from the gauge, no pressure, just a few seconds of jumping down, then back up again.
I’m trying to keep up with what’s going on ince we have clues that I’m not getting. I’m wondering if valve works, but its not opening long enough or there’s still not enough pressure to make it to the tip although I question the cubes that were made. I’ll keep monitoring it to see if it produces ice again.
Another update as I’m gonna keep going through my own diagnosis and process of elimination till I solve it or get an an answer here.
I found out the valve is behind the water filter and they don’t expect you to replace valve itself, but rather the entire water filter assembly. I took assembly apart while maintaining it attached to water lines. I tried to shock for ohms, but no luck as my meter wasn’t staying put for some weird reason, so proceeded to add 120v to individual coils. I checked water coil first to see if my idea works and water poured out dispenser. Then I put power to other coil and didn’t notice any pressure in gauge, so I assumed it was broken or clogged. I pulled orange line from valve and ice dispenser and it was clear. Instead of actuating solenoid and seeing if water would fall out of maker, I just disconnected line from valve and dumped water into fridge of stich it did when power applied.
I must conclude that solenoid works, but I am still concerned why pressure never made it to gauge, but I just realized as I write this that hose is open from other end and that’s why it doesn’t hold pressure. It was a hopeful idea that I didn’t think through.
My next move is to replace water filter again, but I just realized they make aftermarket filters I never seen before which are 3/$24 vs ripoff of 1/$50!?
Maybe I ain’t getting enough enough pressure through filter?!
Otherwise diagnosis will lead to what controls water valve functions. I’m not sure if its a main board for all of which i believe versus a separate ice maker board.
Filters arrive friday!
Ok. Maybe a final update cause I’m stumped.
I replaced filter thinking maybe it’s defective even though it was only a few months old and only used for ice as I don’t drink water.
It’s created 2 perfect set of cubes in 24hrs.
Any clues?