how do you test the flame sensor?
you check the micro-amps with a meter. if it is weak you can clean it with sand paper that usually does the trick!
Check it with an ohm meter, should be initially shorted.
If not totally confused, take the 2 wires off, and put the terminal ends together, and put a little tape around it, and then plug the dryer in, and see if it works. If it does, DON NOT RUN the dryer like that. We do not want to burn down the house. This is to check only. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
If power cannot flow through the flame switch then the ignitor will not glow.
But why don’t the gas come out as well? All are on the same circuit. The answer is: The ignitor hogs all of the power. So the job of the flame switch is kill the power to the ignitor when it gets glowing cherry red so that power can energize the coils and open the gas gates. As soon as the gas hits the hot Ignitor it catches fire like a blow torch and remains on until all the power is killed to that gas assembly by the controling thermostat mounted on the blower housing. So the Flame sensor needs to have continuity while cool and no continuity while hot.
Very good, I learned something.
I have a similar issue with the igniter not igniting and the burner not lighting. I tested the cold resistance of my igniter, and it indicates 90 ohms, which appears to be good. I then tested the cold resistance of my flame sensor, and it tested open. I connected the leads of the flame sensor together, and the igniter glows, but the burner does not light. Any idea what my issue might be?
Thanks,
-Ryan
Your igniter is worn out, resistance too high, for a flat igniter, I believe it should draw more than 3 amps to cause the gas valve to open.
Touch the two leads together till the ignitor glow red hot then seperate the wires. The gas should come out. If not then the solenoids are bad.[ATTACH]1977[/ATTACH]
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You are correct, I missed the cold open flame sensor.