I am getting F3 errors from the oven, A GE JSP38GV1BB. I replaced the temperature sensor, and that did not solve the problem, so it’s likely the clock. That’s what I have read on this site!
The clock is mounted on the front, beneath the cooktop and above the oven door. How do I get to it? The clock is model WB27K5140.
Many thanks. This community is very helpful.
Al Thumbs
Hi Al,
The problem can be not only a bad oven sensor itself but it’s wire harness as well. Especially the sensor quick disconnect plug on the back of the range. When I work with such GE oven sensors, I usually will cut off the plug and hard wire the sensor, using a high temperature porcelain wire nuts.
Check the oven sensor at the control board plug. The removal instructions are attached.
If there is nothing wrong with the sensor,then there is probably time for a new range because the control board is no longer available.
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for General Electric JSP38GV1BB Electric range | AppliancePartsPros.com
Gene.
Slide-Drop-In ranges JSP - JDP control panel removal.pdf (239.1 KB)
Gene,
Thanks for your reply, and for supplying the instructions on pulling the clock. It looks easier than I anticipated.
The new oven sensor had an incompatible plug, so I cut it off and used the wire nuts supplied with it, but I don’t think they are porcelain. I will check the resistance at the control board end in case that’s it.
I found a company that will repair the ERC/clock. I have high hopes that it can be repaired, since all the other functions seem fine except for the inaccurate temperature readings. If it can’t be repaired, I will have to go out and stimulate the economy with a new range purchase. Ouch!
Again, thanks for the help.
Al T.
You are welcome Al. Keep us posted.
Gene.
Gene,
I dove into the stove today. I wanted to let you know that the instructions you posted are not for this model. I wish I had that model, it would have been easier.
On my model, I had to remove two nuts on the sides near the front and at the top that hold the cooktop in place. Then I lifted and supported the cooktop with a block, and removed a shield that covers the wiring to the control panel. Then I was able to access two nuts that detach the panel from the range. That’s as far as I went.
I am waiting to remove the clock until the rest of the family takes an upcoming trip, since we’ll have no range until the clock is repaired, probably 5-7 days turnaround.
When I lifted the cooktop, a plastic unit that holds the 4 lamps that indicate a hot burner fell out of the sheet metal plate that holds it against the cooktop glass. This unit has little plastic fingers that are supposed to lock the holder in place, but two of them broke off and now it won’t stay in the sheet. May I use a little duct tape on this holder? The tape would adhere to the metal sheet and the glass. Any problem?
Thanks.
Al T.
Hi Al,
It’s better to use a high temperature tape. You can buy it at any hardware store.
Gene.
How about zip ties?
The glass can be very hot during cooking. Any material will be good as long as it will hold it in place and withstand high temperature.
Gene.
I’m the original poster. I never found any instructions for removing the clock, but I figured it out. So, to answer my own question, here’s how to do it:
Unplug the stove! If you can’t reach the plug yet, do it when you can.
Remove the door to make working on the control panel easier. Tilt the door out to its first stop, about 15 degrees. Grasp the door by the sides and lift up, sliding it off its hinges.
Remove the storage drawer at the bottom. Pull it out until it stops, and then lift the front to hop it over the rail stops, and remove.
If you couldn’t unplug the stove earlier, do it now! In my installation, I had to reach through the area where the storage drawer was to reach the 220v plug.
Slide the stove out a few inches. Reach behind and unhook the anti-tilt chain from the back of the stove. To keep from losing it behind the stove, I clipped it in a large spring clamp and put it aside on the counter.
Slide the stove out until you can access the cooktop screws, which are on each side at the top, a couple of inches from the front of the stove. There is one on each side.
Remove the cooktop screws. They have ¼” drive heads. I put them, and all screws, into a cup to keep them from escaping.
Tilt the cooktop up from the front and put a block under the front support to hold it up. The back of the cooktop is secured by a couple of metal tabs. The cooktop is heavy; block it well so that it will not fall on your hands while you are working.
There is a sheet metal shield that covers the control panel. Remove 4 hex-drive screws and slide it back into the stove so you can get at the rear of the control panel. This also lets you get at a screw on each side that holds the control panel on.
Remove 3 large screws underneath the control panel, from the outside of the panel. There is one at each end and one near the middle. There are a couple of screws with smaller heads that don’t need to come out.
There are two end caps on the control panel that hold it to the stove. There are 4 screws holding them on; 2 are under the panel, one on each end, and 2 inside the stove, also one at each end. Remove all 4. Now the control panel should flop out and down.
Remove 4 screws that hold the clock unit to the control panel. There is one at each corner of the clock. Now the control panel will drop a little further, hanging on the wires to the burner controls.
Draw yourself a diagram of where the wires connect to the clock before you take them off, so you can remember how it goes back together. I took pictures, too.
Wiggle off the multi-wire connector at the right side of the clock. This took a while! Be patient, don’t damage anything.
Disconnect the individual wires from the tabs on the back of the clock. Some are bare spade connectors, some are white plastic plugs. I had to use needle nose pliers to get these off. Again, use care, be patient, don’t snap off a tab!
This will free your clock. I sent mine out for repair, as this part is no longer available. While the clock was out for repair, I reassembled the stove and was able to use the cooktop burners! If you think you will use the cooktop without the clock, wrap the ends of the wires with the bare spade connectors in electrical tape to prevent any shorts or other trouble.
Reverse the directions to reassemble.
A note about the company that repaired the clock: I used appliancetimers.com in Ontario, Canada. The price was reasonable, and I talked with Howard Simons, the top dog, on the phone. I could tell that he knew what he was doing, and he gave me the tip that I could still use the burners. Final cost for me was $106 (a flat rate) for the repair, plus $55 in round-trip shipping. This saved me from having to buy a comparable stove for over $1000. The company also has some timer models for sale, ready to ship.
Hi Al,
Just wanted to thank you for sharing with us you repairs. Your post was very instructive and will help other people with the same or similar models.
Thanks again and good luck with your range.
Gene.